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  1. #1
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    Default 308 inlet manifold

    G'day Everyone

    The HZ has been leaking oil out of the inlet manifold now for quite a while pulled off the manifold today and the bolt holes around the front water jacket are all corroded out.

    Had a quick look online for a new one (Performer) and saw a few 'cheaper' ones.

    One was a Proflow and the other a cleanskin that looks the same.

    Has anybody had any experience with the no name manifolds or should I just pay the extra for the Edelbrock name?

    Cheers

  2. #2
    casual poster Willie's Avatar
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    My motor had a KC manifold on when I got the car. When I rebuilt the motor there was a lot of sealant used on that manifold to get it to seal. I replaced it with a Performer which fitted perfectly.

  3. #3
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 78GTS View Post
    G'day Everyone

    The HZ has been leaking oil out of the inlet manifold now for quite a while pulled off the manifold today and the bolt holes around the front water jacket are all corroded out.

    Had a quick look online for a new one (Performer) and saw a few 'cheaper' ones.

    One was a Proflow and the other a cleanskin that looks the same.

    Has anybody had any experience with the no name manifolds or should I just pay the extra for the Edelbrock name?

    Cheers
    the corrosion is a common issue so a replacement is on the cards

    but a question.. have either heads or block been machined?
    if so, you will need to check the fit of whichever manifold you get

    Personally.. I would avoid any cleanskin in getting a newie


    ps ...the Proflow looks to be a copy of the Performer which is a copy of the 'better' GMH 5955 manifold
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  4. #4
    Part of the furniture 46Crab's Avatar
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    I agree with Smitty Ref his comments.

    If you do some looking on Gumtree, FB Marketplace you might be able to find a good second hand Performer that hasn’t had too much covid tax applied to it.
    I picked one up before Christmas for $350. It was brand new and had been fitted to an engine, ran up on the dyno and then swapped for a single plane.
    The guy I bought it off mentioned it had 10 thou taken off the inlet port faces due to the heads being machined and to get the inlet faces flat as they were 6 thou out.
    It pays to check everything as even the big name brand products can have issues.

  5. #5
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    Thanks Guys

    The block has a Vic police number stamped on the drivers side so it has probably been machined.

    Is it worth trying to repair the old one?

    Cheers.

  6. #6
    Part of the furniture 46Crab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 78GTS View Post
    Thanks Guys

    The block has a Vic police number stamped on the drivers side so it has probably been machined.

    Is it worth trying to repair the old one?

    Cheers.
    If you have to pay someone to repair the manifold it may end up costing quite a few dollars (depends how many hours it takes), plus once it’s repaired it will need the manifold inlet faces machined.
    I wouldn’t be surprised that depending on how bad the corrosion damage is many places won’t touch it as a job or they will do their best with no come backs if it leaks.

    My brother (boiler maker, he’s a welding Jedi) repaired a 955 manifold off a mates VK Brock and it took him 6 hours including die grinding and cartridge rolling the welds so it looked original.
    He charged him mates rates and swore he would never do another one as a paid job, just due to the time required….

  7. #7
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    Attachment 27269

    Attachment 27270

    Finally worked out how to get the pictures up.

    Thanks 46Crab I was just looking for an easy way out.

    Cheers.

  8. #8
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    They are not the worst i've seen. A good machine shop that can alloy weld and mill the faces may complete this cheaper than a new manifold.
    Last one i did cost $150, but that was a few years ago.
    Wouldn't hurt to ask around.

  9. #9
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    why couldnt you use JB weld or permatex equivalent to fill the voids after you cleaned it up and acetone it to get clean surface
    its filling the mating surface of the manifold to head
    If the bolts were corroded out then the clamping pressure been reduced which is most probably main reason it was leaking

  10. #10
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    hi
    Filler /putty is never a good idea ,if corrosion appears in that area again it will pick all the air cavities in the putty .
    In saying that grinding and blasting b4 welding is the best preparation for any filler or welding . I have always found welding the best long term repair .

    Most Ede performer manifolds are between 100-250 $ . Mine I purchased for 200$ like new condition. [low kms ]

  11. #11
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swampy View Post
    hi
    Filler /putty is never a good idea ,if corrosion appears in that area again it will pick all the air cavities in the putty .
    In saying that grinding and blasting b4 welding is the best preparation for any filler or welding . I have always found welding the best long term repair .

    Most Ede performer manifolds are between 100-250 $ . Mine I purchased for 200$ like new condition. [low kms ]
    be thankful

    Covid rules for a new one... most places sell them from $550 to $600 new!
    IF THEY HAVE STOCK that is..
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  12. #12
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    Edel is not what it used to be. Cannot speak for Holden's, but have had numerous E intakes where the ports do not line up. Probably the worst example is the RPM manifold for Pontiacs. Pontiacs have coolant exits at the front of the head that go into the int, same as a SBC. The holes in the heads are not rough cored, they are machined openings, 1 3/16", about 30 mm. The matching holes in the RPM are about the size of a 10c piece. Ever pointed a garden hose at a wall & notice the flow disruption/turbulence? These reduced openings would seriously reduce flow etc unless they are opened up to the correct size.

    Another example this past week on Just Mopar Joe youtube. He inspected Edel E street heads for a BBM. These came assembled, supposedly ready to use. Valve seats were too wide, did not seal. There was machining residue trapped under the valve seals. And the chamber openings were too big with a question mark as to whether stock type head gaskets would seal.

  13. #13
    Part of the furniture 46Crab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty2 View Post
    be thankful

    Covid rules for a new one... most places sell them from $550 to $600 new!
    IF THEY HAVE STOCK that is..
    Smitty, you are spot on with covid prices.
    I was pretty happy with with the virtually new one I got and it came with a phenolic spacer as well for the $350 I paid. The guy even left the brass adapter for the temp sender in it.

  14. #14
    Part of the furniture 46Crab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swampy View Post
    hi
    Filler /putty is never a good idea ,if corrosion appears in that area again it will pick all the air cavities in the putty .
    In saying that grinding and blasting b4 welding is the best preparation for any filler or welding . I have always found welding the best long term repair .

    Most Ede performer manifolds are between 100-250 $ . Mine I purchased for 200$ like new condition. [low kms ]
    Swampy, I totally agree with not using filler/putty etc and grinding and blasting the area to be repaired (welded)

    As for the price of those Performers, that must have been pre-covid as everyone seems to add their own covid tax to everything they sell now.
    Some of the prices I see are just ridiculous.

  15. #15
    Part of the furniture 46Crab's Avatar
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    Here is a Performer I just saw on stalkbook….
    [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220108/4f60fc2a4bba48906de14588a5e275a4.png[/IMG]

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