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  1. #16
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    Modern fuels burn pretty black. You could try half a tank of avgas. If the black goes away, it aint oil. I run avgas exclusively as our PULP is not as good as yours. Plugs are always super clean.

  2. #17
    Senior Member 46Crab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTaxi View Post
    Modern fuels burn pretty black. You could try half a tank of avgas. If the black goes away, it aint oil. I run avgas exclusively as our PULP is not as good as yours. Plugs are always super clean.
    Do you find the engine runs better other than cleaner with a half tank AVGAS and half tank PULP?
    Do you have a wide band to check any differences after adding the AGVAS?
    Any difference in engine temps etc?

  3. #18
    Senior Member BasicQ's Avatar
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    Default SBC - Troubleshooting oily spark plugs

    Quote Originally Posted by LXCHEV View Post
    [*]I didn't run a PCV valve for 8 years, but I do now.
    I am all for running a pcv for the type of cars most of us here have but;

    Are your rocker covers adequately baffled under the pcv?

    What pcv is it, what model/year engine is it from? Will it work with the vacuum profile of your engine?

    Do you have an air-oil separator between the pcv and vac source?

    Now it may not be oil on the plugs but the above may need addressing if running a pcv to eliminate the possibility of oil in the combustion chamber.
    Last edited by BasicQ; 17-04-2021 at 11:42 AM.

  4. #19
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTaxi View Post
    Plugs are always super clean.
    Super clean...or just Lead coated?

  5. #20
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    Big name carb builders will ask that you have 22-24* initial timing minimum, before trying to tune their carb.

  6. #21
    Senior Member JaseQ314's Avatar
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    My 308 plugs are the same as well, always black with oily looking threads.

    If the car sits for a fair while unless it's got brand new plugs in it on start up it runs like shit, pops, crackles (breakfast cereal?) and won't rev cleanly. Once it is fully warmed up it finally gets eight cylinders but I still can't guarantee it will idle properly, sometimes it will, sometimes not.

  7. #22
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    LX,

    I have the Chinese HEI in my GTO, been in a few years, driven weekly. They even come with a steel dist gear, & I am using mine with an 8620 roller cam. No problem. I have lost count of how many of these dists I have used/set up over the years, but would probably be between 15-20. I have also recommended them to many people, never heard of one failing.

    The method I use to install the centri curve requires shaft removal. I always find nice, tight shaft/bush clearance, & lubricated with grease. The top end parts are chromed, a nice touch; original GM was not chromed. Everything that the eye can see looks well made.

    One of the original owners of RS was a friend, who has since passed away. They have a non-descript warehouse & small staff, so low overheads. I think this might be a reason for the cheap[er] prices, not so much that the product it self is 'cheap'. In comparison , I have been to Speedmaster/ProComp warehouse which is much larger & very modern, & more staff .....& higher prices. The less said about the owner, the better....

  8. #23
    Part of the furniture gtrboyy's Avatar
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    ^^^ Yeah old 5 Star days when it was in Five Dock was one of best shop to go to he didn't care if young novice or seasoned revhead treated you the same.

    Road Star is is mixed bag some parts are really good for price/fitment other stuff is bit meh but as expected for imported copies.

    Last joint not worth mentioning & yeah been there too met owner....

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 46Crab View Post
    Do you find the engine runs better other than cleaner with a half tank AVGAS and half tank PULP?
    Do you have a wide band to check any differences after adding the AGVAS?
    Any difference in engine temps etc?
    Engine was built and tuned on avgas so cant answer sorry. No wide band and always ran cool. I actually meant try just avgas. A mate a few years back swore by 1/2 avgas and half 91ulp. Theory was 98 has a crap load more toluene and who knows what else. Where 91 was more just a basic petrol.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by EH179 View Post
    Super clean...or just Lead coated?
    Just clean. A bit of colour on the strap. I'm no tuner though.

  11. #26
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 46Crab View Post
    Do you find the engine runs better other than cleaner with a half tank AVGAS and half tank PULP?
    Do you have a wide band to check any differences after adding the AGVAS?
    Any difference in engine temps etc?
    Avgas would stuff the oxy' sensors so not a good idea regards the wide band.

  12. #27
    Senior Member 46Crab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EH179 View Post
    Avgas would stuff the oxy' sensors so not a good idea regards the wide band.
    Roger. I wasnít aware of that, thanks.

  13. #28
    Senior Member LXCHEV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BasicQ View Post
    I am all for running a pcv for the type of cars most of us here have but;
    Are your rocker covers adequately baffled under the pcv?
    What pcv is it, what model/year engine is it from? Will it work with the vacuum profile of your engine?
    Do you have an air-oil separator between the pcv and vac source?
    Now it may not be oil on the plugs but the above may need addressing if running a pcv to eliminate the possibility of oil in the combustion chamber.
    I love (and hate) this topic! My PCV is a #2072. Brand new from Repco, can't recall the branding. Billet Specialties rocker covers with what appears to be decent enough baffles. No air-oil separator installed. Is this PCV valve correct for my setup - most likely NOT?

    I only chose the #2072 valve as it's a nice right angle fitting which slots into my rocker cover beautifully. Since that point in time, I've spent hours reading endless amounts of PCV threads on the internet (including a lot of yankee sites) and it's amazing just how many people are both for and against their use. Some people have problems with them, others don't. The sheer variety of different style (flow rates) of PCV valves in incredible - but the lack of specifications and information is disappointing. It seems to be a huge guessing game as to which one to use on any particular engine.

    I have no idea what the #2072 is factory fitted on and no idea of flow rates. What I do know is that it seems to suck bloody hard on my engine and I've even heard whistling noises from it too (which might indicate it's likely flowing too much, but I'm guessing). At idle if I remove it and put my finger over the end, it has huge suction. For an interesting read - check this dude out who also had whistling noises from a 2072.

    I ran no PCV on this engine for 8 years straight, with no problems at all. The only reason for finally fitting one fairly recently is to minimise oil smells and make the car as family cruise-friendly as possible. Whilst it has nothing to do with my primary oily thread issue here, it's still an interesting thing to discuss and could potentially make things worse inside the combustion chamber. I'd be up for trying a different valve if this one is clearly incorrect.

    I also wonder if the current valve is contributing to my off-idle stumble (feels mega lean to me). I might piss it off for a while and reset my idle mixture screws as a bit of a test. Again, I need to pull my finger out and get this AFR gauge installed.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #29
    Senior Member LXCHEV's Avatar
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    And just another interesting PCV thread for those interested.

  15. #30
    Senior Member LXCHEV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GtoGeoff View Post
    LX,

    I have the Chinese HEI in my GTO, been in a few years, driven weekly. They even come with a steel dist gear, & I am using mine with an 8620 roller cam. No problem. I have lost count of how many of these dists I have used/set up over the years, but would probably be between 15-20. I have also recommended them to many people, never heard of one failing.
    The method I use to install the centri curve requires shaft removal. I always find nice, tight shaft/bush clearance, & lubricated with grease. The top end parts are chromed, a nice touch; original GM was not chromed. Everything that the eye can see looks well made.
    One of the original owners of RS was a friend, who has since passed away. They have a non-descript warehouse & small staff, so low overheads. I think this might be a reason for the cheap[er] prices, not so much that the product it self is 'cheap'. In comparison , I have been to Speedmaster/ProComp warehouse which is much larger & very modern, & more staff .....& higher prices. The less said about the owner, the better....
    Thanks for this feedback Geoff. It's pretty clear that these "cheapo" dizzies are certainly decent enough. I'm all for buying quality parts to ensure maximum reliability. I'm definitely interested in trying one of these out. I do need to run a melonite gear for my cam, but that can be worked out easily enough. Stay tuned. I'll do a tiny bit more research before committing.

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