Vs v8 coolant operating temp

[ryan350]

Hi all , just wondering what the standard operating temp is for a vs v8 ? I’m getting temps as high as 97c on a 30c plus day with the ac on have had a few issue with the heater core being blocked ect so not sure if it too hot and possibly heater core still blocked abit? Has fresh coolant and new (tested) 82c thermostat , has been bled thoroughly and heater is nice and hot. Can’t rely on my temp gauge as it keeps flactuating like it has a bad earth , sender is brand new as I replaced that when I replaced the leaking intake gaskets (which are also on the correct way )

Thanks ryan

[immortality]

Standard cooling system? Do you have the fan shroud fitted?

Tried reverse flushing the radiator and heater core?

[ryan350]

Yeah mate standard as it came from the factory! My next train of thought was to take it to a radiator shop to have the cooling power flushed mate ! Do you think it’s running too hot ? Cheers ryan

Also I have reverse flushed the heater core ! Have not reverse flushed the rad though , call me a dummy but best method to do that please ?

[immortality]

Pull the radiator out and use the garden hose. If it's real bad then having it cleaned professionally might be the best answer.

Yes I think it's running to hot. Ideally the running temp should be within a few degrees of the thermostat temp when cruising at a reasonable speed but then I'm in NZ where mostly our ambient temps are lower than what you see in Aussie. In the summer my cars run a little warmer than in winter when doing the stop/start traffic routine but once out on the open road then basically run at thermostat temp.

When it is hot can you hear the fan? Maybe the viscous coupling is stuffed and the fan coupling isn't locking up properly to spin the fan and cool the engine.

[ryan350]

Cheers mate ! Clutch fan is definitely working ! I actually have a 3 core brass copper radiator out of my vl v8 commodore that is basically brand new , stripped the car but kept some stuff , from what I have read they are the same radiator (fitment wise) current one in the Ute has the plastic tanks ect... wonder if it’s worth using that radiator and have it tested and cleaned and get the rest of the system power flushed ?

[immortality]

Can't hurt to swap out the radiator and test.

No idea on power flushing. Never had it done.

[76lxhatch]

Pretty sure the injected V8s had a 90 degree thermostat from factory.

97 is fine if that's the hottest it ever gets, assuming that's the measurement of the coolant itself (not sure what/where you're measuring without a working gauge). With the cooling system under pressure and good coolant you should be able to hit 120 before it boils and as long as it never boils the coolant works.

I'd fix the gauge and keep an eye on it, if its consistent and never goes above a reasonable temp then all good.

[ryan350]

Cheers mate , using a snap on scan tool and looking at the live data whilst driving mate ! Yes I agree need to sort the gauge out , was just hoping the old sender was faulty but the gauge is still playing up with the new sender

[immortality]

2nd gen Commodores are known for having dry solder joint issues in the cluster which may effect the temp gauge. I know on my VN occasionally I had to slap the dash to make it work.

I agree that 97° C isn't the end of the world but if you are running a 82° C thermostat it's still a big temp swing.

[76lxhatch]

I know on my VN occasionally I had to slap the dash to make it work.

A common sight seeing drivers of high km VNs going down the road whacking the top of the dash trying to figure out how much fuel is left in the tank... :-D

[Smitty2]

Pretty sure the injected V8s had a 90 degree thermostat from factory....................

Factory manual says

Opens 86°-90°
Fully open 100°

[HQ 368]

That's pretty warm for one of them Ryan and they are generally really consistent as well if it's in standard form.
Water pump may be worth a look.

You would be lucky to get any more than 10-12 years out of a standard type radiator on them so its probably about due for it's 3rd one by now.

Stray Current and coolant pH out of whack will block them up and eat them out.

[GtoGeoff]

I presume the car has a cross flow radiator. If the heater core is blocked, then there is a good chance the lower tubes of the rad are blocked with sediment. Quite common with cross flow radiators over time; engine off, the sediment settles to the bottom & progressively blocks the tubes, starting from the bottom.

[ryan350]

Cheers for the replies fellas , engine is 100% stock and has around 390k on the clock . Water pump is around 2 years old (genuine Holden pump) as for the radiator my guess is as good as anyone’s. like said I have a near new copper brass one from my old vl , is it worth having that cleaned as well as the rest of the cooling system ? When I first unblocked the heater core some nasty crud came out! I personally have a gut feeling like you guys that maybe the rad is blocked somewhat also, never use to be a issue till about a month ago. Before this I would struggle to get a decent heater as it ran really cool

Cheers ryan

[GtoGeoff]

I reckon if the car has 390k on the clock, it has earned a cleaned-out radiator....