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  1. #16
    casual poster BasicQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LXCHEV View Post
    Very interesting BasicQ. Thanks for taking the time to post that up.

    Just on the note of site problems - last night there were several other posts in this thread, which have vanished? I hadn't had time to respond yet, but there were some good insights put forward on other ways to liven up my old dinosaur.

    From what I can recall - there was something around the potential of having a poor ignition system. I'm actually using a full ICE setup (Digital Compu-Curve with Bosch dizzy and no vac advance), however I should dig out the original spec sheet and share the curve details - perhaps it needs revisiting (it was originally setup for a previous incarnation - still a 383, but different cam and stall etc). From memory, it's set around 12 degrees initial with a total of maybe 32 degrees. I'll need to check that.

    There was another post talking about the fact my heads and intake are potentially costing 50+ HP, which I agree with whole-heartedly. Long term I do plan to invest in a set of AFR's and whatever intake at the time is best.

    Convertor diameter was also mentioned. Again, pushing the brain cells a bit to recall, but I think mine is a 10".

    All great comments and very appreciated!
    Yes I seen those post too! I think it was 427 mentioning your converter and you might perform better with a 8”

    Was it Mad dog that mention ignition? A good move before any wholesale carby changes is set your ignition up with 18 - 20* initial and about 34 - 36* total.

    I also seen a post by struggler. I think he also chimed in on Pro Systems and suggested a Brawler carby? Disappeared now though from what I see at this point in time.

  2. #17
    casual poster LXCHEV's Avatar
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    I found my records on timing - I actually run 18-22 initial (can't remember where I've currently set it but it's certainly in that window). The Compu-Curve then provides 12 degrees, all in by 4,000RPM.

  3. #18
    casual poster BasicQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LXCHEV View Post
    I found my records on timing - I actually run 18-22 initial (can't remember where I've currently set it but it's certainly in that window). The Compu-Curve then provides 12 degrees, all in by 4,000RPM.
    Can you get it in sooner? 2500 - 3000rpm? Might be worth trying.

    Also those older heads might prefer 36* ish total. Maybe increase total 2* at a time and let the initial fall where it may. Do some test drives through a range of driving situations to check for pinging. Keep increasing 2* until pinging then back down to previous setting that had no pinging.
    Last edited by BasicQ; 23-09-2020 at 06:27 PM.

  4. #19
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    Ok, my calculations based on engine size, rpm and VE guessed at 90%, gives me a carb with a cfm rating of 794!

  5. #20
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    Plenty of feedback mate. Very good. Your heads and manifold should be good for 300bhp plus..The Rpm Airgap is a good street manifold. It will make good power up until your redline. Your heads should not hold you back too much. It is a street engine. There is still some left on the table for sure..My little 350 with a hyd roller similar to yours, with little 165 runner old, old school fuellie heads and a Quadrajet made 300bhp on the dyno. Exactly what i was hoping for. Not a shitload, but real world numbers..

  6. #21
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    And this site does seem a bit funny at the moment..

  7. #22
    casual poster LXCHEV's Avatar
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    Many moons ago - I actually ran a quaddie too. It was a great carb, but we struggled to keep fuel up to it with the mechanical fuel pump at the time. Car ran low to mid 12's at that stage.

    I played with electric fuel pumps for a few years, but once I moved on from the quaddie to a Holley, I reverted back to a mechanical pump again (currently a billet Holley 170GPH unit). I love the simplicity of mechanical pumps and this one has been excellent. I got the car down into the 11.7's (this is 15 years ago) - super slow by today's high standards, but that satisfied me fine for a mild streeter. It was a great combo for it's time. I've estimated it should be close to the 420 - 440 FWHP mark. My combo hasn't really changed much since, besides moving on to the hydro roller cam. It's screaming out for modern heads. But for now, I'm not actually chasing more power - just looking to refine the current tune and maximise it's street manners and drive-ability.

    I'm about to buy some Innovate Motorsports air-fuel ratio gear so I can do a bit of DIY detective work and home tuning - without forking out $$ for dyno tunes. If I can't get this carby right - I'll explore the alternatives.

    All the points made so far have been duly noted - thanks gents.

  8. #23
    casual poster LXCHEV's Avatar
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    By the way - BasicQ - interesting suggestions with the timing. I might actually chat with the guys from ICE and seek their advice on the curve with the current combo.

  9. #24
    casual poster BasicQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LXCHEV View Post
    By the way - BasicQ - interesting suggestions with the timing. I might actually chat with the guys from ICE and seek their advice on the curve with the current combo.
    No worries. That chat should be first move. I am sure you have been messing with engines and tunes long enough to know, but just as a reminder of the adage that most carby tuning issues are ignition issues. Ignition sorted first, focus on carby next.

    Is that 170gph the fuel pump that doesn’t need a reg? Been thinking of getting one of those.
    Last edited by BasicQ; 24-09-2020 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Replaced cliche with adage

  10. #25
    casual poster LXCHEV's Avatar
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    Correct - no reg required. A mate ran the exact same pump on a much angrier 383 SBC (also in a Torana) and dipped comfortably into the 10’s no problems.

  11. #26
    casual poster Madogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LXCHEV View Post
    I found my records on timing - I actually run 18-22 initial (can't remember where I've currently set it but it's certainly in that window). The Compu-Curve then provides 12 degrees, all in by 4,000RPM.
    So youíre only running 30-34* total?
    Those heads ainít that efficient.
    Iíd be looking around 36-38 total and low- mid 20ís initial, all in by as soon as possible without pinging (hopefully 2500-3000).

    Also if it was me Iíd be checking tdc on the balancer too.
    If seen heaps that are out by a few degrees. Theyíre usually retarded. So you may only be running something like 28* total.
    Thatíll soot the plugs for sure.
    I love animals - they're delicious!!

  12. #27
    Senior Member JaseQ314's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BasicQ View Post
    Yes I seen those post too! I think it was 427 mentioning your converter and you might perform better with a 8Ē

    Was it Mad dog that mention ignition? A good move before any wholesale carby changes is set your ignition up with 18 - 20* initial and about 34 - 36* total.

    I also seen a post by struggler. I think he also chimed in on Pro Systems and suggested a Brawler carby? Disappeared now though from what I see at this point in time.
    I saw those posts as well. Your memory is good man, I couldn't think who posted what on my own but reading this post I think you're spot on.

    I've been getting some weird security message for the last couple of weeks when I try to open the site after my browsing history has been deleted. I have to select a less secure button and then hit the URL and it will open and work ok. It wasn't doing it at work but did for the first time last night and then wouldn't let me open it at all when I tried to select the less secure option, browsing with Google Chrome.

  13. #28
    casual poster BasicQ's Avatar
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    For me since post #13 it's been telling me I need to wait 29 seconds and try again but as I found out despite that message it does post. That's how I doubled up, I waited 29 seconds, tried again and both attempts posted.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaseQ314 View Post
    I've been getting some weird security message for the last couple of weeks when I try to open the site after my browsing history has been deleted. I have to select a less secure button and then hit the URL and it will open and work ok. It wasn't doing it at work but did for the first time last night and then wouldn't let me open it at all when I tried to select the less secure option, browsing with Google Chrome.
    I had a problem like this a while back.
    Is it saying that its a TLS problem.

    You might have to disable TLS in Chrome.

    Fix is in here if anyone else has the problem - chrome://flags/#legacy-tls-enforced

    AV8 seems to be running on TLS1.3 when I checked.

    Hope it's this helps.

  15. #30
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    Double post.
    Last edited by HQ 368; 24-09-2020 at 06:52 PM.

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