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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2020

    Default 393 Cleveland Stroker, Stack EFI build

    Hey guys just chasing some advice on a 351c efi build, this is my first full ground up build and just trying to plan it out.

    Build is aiming at a 500hp odd daily driver to bolt into an xe with a t56 magnum 6sp manual and 3.7 diff ratio id like to run it on 98 octane as well.
    Current layout of build is:
    - 351c block with 393 stroker crank.
    - Hydraulic Roller 241/245 @ .50", .633 & .633 lift and 109 lsa cam
    - looking at CHI 3v 208 67cc heads
    - Pro Series Cleveland V8 Stack Injection throttle body from efi hardware
    - haltech 950 elite ecu
    - msd efi dual sync distributor

    Currently have 351c block getting sleeved back to standard bore. I have a SCAT 393 forged crank and 6" eagle rods i bought a while ago.

    My first question is about piston choice, I've noticed that most pistons you can buy for the stroker come at 4.030, 30 thou over bore out the box. Just wondering if you can get 4.000 standard pistons or if they have to be custom made. Id like to stay standard bore as ive just spent to sleeve back to standard rather not bore it straight out to max. I understand this would bring it back to not being quite 393ci anymore. Money not to big of an issue willing to spend it where it counts for reliability if its worth it.

    Second is the cam, the cam listen is just what CHI supplies with their stage 3 top end kit but I was thinking it might be a little bit heavy for the build but Im not too great with knowing how it will perform from the numbers. Any tips on it would be great.

    Third is about compression and fuel. I did a brief calculation of the dynamic compression ratio based on 4.000" flat top pistons, the listed cam and a 3.850 stroke it came to 10.97:1. Is this a bit high for everyday 98 octane. I live in the NT too so its a hotter climate as well if it makes a difference.

    Cheers for any advice anyone can provide.

  2. #2
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2018


    Hi Rhino11, Im doing same thing with the ITBs, but with a 302W based engine (8.2" block). Interested to see how you go.

    Have you thought about going cam sensor instead of dizzy? Im going to be using Haltechs Elite 2500 to run mine.

    With pistons I would go the OTS 4.030, just easier. if worried about future build meat left, theres other sizes such as 4.125 and 4.155. But if its only street, and you look after it, a rebuild would be yonks away.

    Ive bought my self engine analyzer and its a great tool to use. Plug in different specs (inc cam) and it punches out "theoretical" numbers and power graphs. Like I said theoretical but gives you an idea. Would also speak to some engine builders (prob not much in NT), they may have some previous builds with data. I would get your heads ported to your liking, then get them flow tested, and read off the chart to get better indication of best cam, especially lift. Lift gives the flow, duration and LSA gives you the powerband, all of which will give you your engines characteristics.

    With CR - I currently have 11.8 and run on both 98 and E85. It was fine with 98. It comes down how well/safe your tune is. Thats the beauty of EFI. But to be safe I would stick to under 11:1. Youve got cubes, so itll be a nice torquey engine anyway. Make sure to check piston-valve clearance. Heat wont affect combustion, in fact colder climates raises CR a tad due to denser air hence why more power (amongst other things), but higher CR does 'produce' more heat so cooling system may be getting a work out. But have you thought about running E85? Much cooler.

    Hope this helps. Im no expert by any means, and learning too...
    Last edited by TKFD; 01-08-2020 at 07:07 PM.

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