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Thread: Holden 308 H

  1. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by BasicQ View Post
    Absolutely agree with that sentiment.



    Your probably right and Kavesh can clear up what he meant by bar. Whatever bar he meant I picked up on ‘just above zero’. It may not be correlated but I was working backwards from expecting more oil pressure when flow through the lifters is slowed down
    When I mentioned bars I was referring to bars of pressure. Sorry if I was not clear before, My gauge reads in bars of pressure and not PSI. 1 bar = 14.5psi.

    Previously on idle with the motor at operating temperature I was only able to get just above zero bars of pressure, the needle was like a mm above the zero, give it a little rev and the needle would go higher.

    I have also removed the roll pins using some arc welding rods wire after grinding off the electrode from them, was an effort to knock them out I I managed to get all 16 out

  2. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by EH179 View Post
    First problem: Did you do a lifter pre-load check at all? If not, do so.

    Second problem: Remove the 3 mm spacer in the relief spring and try again.
    With the 308, please explain how does one set or check lifter pre-load? The 308 has non adjustable valve train, rockers are slowly just bolted down

    All roll pins are removed.

  3. #273
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    With a stock cam this how i do it:

    Get No1 piston on TDC and loosen the rocker bolts on both valves.
    Slowly tighten 1 rocker whilst rolling the pushrod between thumb and forefinger. When the pushrod starts to resist rolling you are at zero lash. Check how much further the rocker bolt wants to turn before being tight. Target is 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.
    Do this for each cylinder in the firing order to avoid confusion and your done.

    If you have say 2 turns on the bolt after zero lash, you will need shims under the pedestals.
    If you have only say 1/4 turn, you will need to machine rocker pedestals down.
    Last edited by EH179; 29-12-2020 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Yep, back to front

  4. #274
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    ^^Yep this. It's been a while since I played with hyd cams but those 2 last lines might be back to front? Too many turns down, shim it up? Not enough, machine it down?

  5. #275
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTaxi View Post
    ^^Yep this. It's been a while since I played with hyd cams but those 2 last lines might be back to front? Too many turns down, shim it up? Not enough, machine it down?
    Thanks for the correction Red, hot beer and cold weather don't mix

  6. #276
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    Very high oil pressure & a displaced filter O ring are a worry. The oil was looking for the easiest way out...& found an o ring. First thought is stuck relief valve in the oil pump.

  7. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by GtoGeoff View Post
    Very high oil pressure & a displaced filter O ring are a worry. The oil was looking for the easiest way out...& found an o ring. First thought is stuck relief valve in the oil pump.
    I will remove the spring and put the bolt back on and give the motor a crank or 2 to drop the pump piston, then will clean and confirm free movement before reinstalling

  8. #278
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    Might be stating the obvious but when setting lash using above method make sure you are at TDC compression stroke, mot exhaust. ie valves closed.

  9. #279
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    I use this method, it is a lot simpler

    Watch from 9 minutes in

    https://youtu.be/5EGlb_VpTAw

  10. #280
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    Hey guys

    The piston on the oil pump was seized and I was not able to remove it. Fortunately I had a old pump which had a free relief piston, so I used that half of the pump.

    I started her up today and am very happy with the results. I have decent oil pressure and the motor does not have a misfire at att. I still need to fine tune the motor but finally I have something to be smiling about.
    The L6 lifters have worked out it seems, I still need to check the preload discussed above.

    I ran in the cam again just to make sure the lifters bed in with the cam lobes. Oil pressure was good throughout the 20 minutes of running at higher rpm varying the engine speed from time to time.

    The exhaust did smoke for a while still and got progressively less, but I suspect it will still smoke for a while until all the oil in the exhaust burns out.
    Have a look at the videos below.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jjxE-DBaug&t=1s
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfryAqQgviE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bP_9-0jWWNc

    I will hopefully take her for a ride tomorrow morning and advise how it goes, but I am feeling very positive.

    With the PCV, I have decided to connect the drivers front rocker cover to vacuum source, and the rear passenger will be used for air from the air cleaner. I know its not how it was designed to be originally but I think it looks neater this way.

    Finally some good news,

    Thank you to everyone that contributed with advice and suggestions which helped me to eventually find the source of my problem, those bloody lifters.

  11. #281
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    That's great news

  12. #282
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    Great news Kavesh, it's been a long time coming. I hope the new lifters hang in there ok on the worn cam, it hasn't done much running so you just might get lucky.

    All the best for the future, keep us posted how it goes.

    Jason.

  13. #283
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    Thanks guys, it really has been a long journey.

    I am just so happy that we managed to find the source of the problem, those bloody valve lifters.

    I went for a short 10km drive this morning and right from startup there was no smoke all the way through my drive not even a puff, so that was pleasing. I have the PCV hooked up so great to be able to use it, even though I have relocated it to the front drivers side bank,

    My tailpipe is still pretty oily and wet looking, but that should clear in time once all the oil from before blows or burns out.

    Now I need to repair my wiper motor, I damaged the electrical connections when the motor slipped on the chain and bumped it during installation, minor issue, will remove and solder the wires again.

    Thank you again to everyone that tried to offer advice and help to resolve my problem. I am so grateful to this group.

    Happy new year to you all, may you have a prosperous and safe 2021

  14. #284
    Senior Member BasicQ's Avatar
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    Fantastic!

    Huge learning curve but got there.

    Are you thinking like Horaldic said earlier and it was the wrong parts supplied to you in the first place?

    Happy new year and hopefully plenty of cruising for you in 2021!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  15. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by BasicQ View Post
    Fantastic!

    Huge learning curve but got there.

    Are you thinking like Horaldic said earlier and it was the wrong parts supplied to you in the first place?

    Happy new year and hopefully plenty of cruising for you in 2021!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Yes massive learning curve, not to mention the frustration and many swear words in between.

    I do agree that the wrong parts were supplied, to start with. No way I would have determined that before installation as it looked identical to the old lifters, apart from the little hole on the side which was slightly larger.
    What I can tell you if I rebuild any engine again and have to replace lifters I will be armed with a thin piece of wire to confirm whether the metering valve is indeed in place. I simple poke of the wire through the cup hole will confirm that.
    On Monday I am going to contact the supplier and advise him how much of a run around those wrong parts gave me, not to mention the expense of rebuilding the motor. Perhaps he will apologize or blame his suppliers. I feel I need to do this even if it does not yield a response.

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