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14-07-2010, 11:25 PM #16
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- Dec 2008
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- on meth
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Good thread Ev1lvt , when i was smashing panels i used to apply the spray filler with a small roller on repairs that consisted of a 50/50 mix of gorilla hair and plastic filler yes i'm glad those days are over ,i'm liking your quality of work .
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14-07-2010, 11:43 PM #17
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- May 2010
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- vic
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Last edited by EV1LVT; 03-08-2010 at 12:42 PM.
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15-07-2010, 01:31 AM #18
Great thread evil - need some touch ups on my vk if you ever get time - which is something I don't have !
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15-07-2010, 01:33 AM #19
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- May 2010
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- vic
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Last edited by EV1LVT; 03-08-2010 at 12:42 PM.
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15-07-2010, 01:42 AM #20
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15-07-2010, 08:07 AM #21
We use a two pack primer/filler made by RobAust over the etch primer. It costs about $150 for a 5lt kit. We have tried heaps of different brands over the years and found it to be the best filling out there. It sands really easy and doesn't sink back when cured. 3 coats of it can be board file sanded with 180, guide coated and resanded with 400 -800 grit. Its a fast and economical way. We never use single pack fillers. Keep up this thread. Good job.
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15-07-2010, 09:52 AM #22
Thansk for the info EV1LVT can you please use a larger font, my eyes are sore
Please visit my Facebook page.
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15-07-2010, 10:31 AM #23
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15-07-2010, 03:05 PM #24
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- Jul 2010
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- South West W.A.
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just to add to the stripping there are other ways to do the job like soda blasting and a new thing coming out of west aust dyna brade if your like me and time poor i had my monaro soda blasted but it requires cleaning and surface preparation before paint
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15-07-2010, 05:13 PM #25
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- May 2010
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- vic
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Last edited by EV1LVT; 03-08-2010 at 12:42 PM.
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15-07-2010, 07:43 PM #26
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- Jul 2006
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- melb
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- 40
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16-07-2010, 09:16 AM #27
Mate that VR has come up trumps! Would love my HT to be looking as clean as that - wanna do mine?
Many thanks for the detailed write-up. My mate has most of the equipment you mentioned above so am going to try and borrow that from him. He did a few DIY small repairs at home but didn't paint the whole car, so I'll be using your steps above as a guide on what I need to do. Will post up a few pics as I go too incase I'm heading down the wrong path.
Question - where you state "Spray your panels about 4 to 6 cms away with the gun, do slow even passes as if your painting it with colour... this is the final step before priming" what are you actually spraying/painting it with??Last edited by Gatecrasher; 16-07-2010 at 09:25 AM.
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16-07-2010, 10:09 AM #28
Good thread Buddy, I admire your efforts. I love painting stuff and learn from threads like this. Keep up the good work.
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16-07-2010, 10:34 AM #29
Ev1LVT I have some questions.
I had my whole car blasted. I then took it straight back to work and put Deoxidine on the whole shell. I then painted it in 2 pak Epoxy primer. I have now done the rust repairs and recoated in Epoxy primer. My next step is the High solid.
http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...n-project.html
1. Should I spray high solid on the whole car with all panel fitted, or can they be done off?
(Doors, Bonnet,Tailgate, Fronnt Gaurds)
2. Do I spray the door jams of the shell, back side of front gaurds, underneath of bonnet and the back side of doors first. Then fit doors. If yes do I put the clear on?
3. Do I spray the car with doors, bonnet and tail gate fitted? (wagon)
Thanks DavePlease visit my Facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CNC-M...1140615?ref=hl
Web Site
http://www.cncmanufacturing.com.au/
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16-07-2010, 01:04 PM #30
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- May 2010
- Location
- Hunter Valley, NSW
- Posts
- 30
Great thread and perfect timing too! Please don't skip any of the basic's as there are guys out there like me that know very very little about body work. Thanks
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