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  1. #271
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    Swap my 4.44 for your 3.55!! Plus $100


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #272
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rielly1978hzwagon View Post
    Well i could limit it too 7500 with the msd box anything over 450 is a plus, sounds like ill keep the cam i have now , what do you think of the gearing ?
    Yeah 4. something for gearing.. cams are a strange animal, you can make big ones work you can make small ones work its all about lobe area, and rocker ratio at the end of the day or what the valve feeding the engine ACTUALLY does

  3. #273
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    Should be able to run less converter as well with higher gears.


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  4. #274
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    Well i think a member on here priced me up around a 5000-5200 convertor i think

  5. #275
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    After some friendly advice from someone in the know iv been advised that ill be playing with fire if i keep with the rods i have what do people think of these rods ? I would post photos but photobuckets being gay and not allowing me to verify my account. The link is
    https://www.enginemaster.com.au/scat...icr57002000-ch

  6. #276
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    The link is to a 3/8 rod bolt version, for around the same price you can go to the 7/16 bolt... Now, the 3/8 may be adequate but its going to be in the back of your mind..

    https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...make/chevrolet

  7. #277
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    Thats a 2.100 journal diameter i need 2 ill have another look to see if i can get it in 2 with the 7/16 bolt

  8. #278
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rielly1978hzwagon View Post
    Thats a 2.100 journal diameter i need 2” ill have another look to see if i can get it in 2” with the 7/16 bolt
    You can in a H-beam ... Crank will break before your 3/8 ARP rod bolt

  9. #279
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    So what would you recommend?

  10. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by rielly1978hzwagon View Post
    So what would you recommend?
    If it was mine I'd put the 3/8 bolted I-beam in ...

  11. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulzig View Post
    If it was mine I'd put the 3/8 bolted I-beam in ...
    Is that the one i first linked ? ,
    Also what its the diffrence on H beam vs I beam apart from the looks of it ?

  12. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by rielly1978hzwagon View Post
    Is that the one i first linked ? ,
    Also what its the diffrence on H beam vs I beam apart from the looks of it ?
    Generally speaking an H beam is stronger and an I beam is lighter, all other things being equal.

  13. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by rielly1978hzwagon View Post
    So what would you recommend?
    Unless there is a readily available (not too pricey) 7/16 bolted I beam, Id just use a 3/8 bolted I beam and move on.

    Noting you started with a 330 crank & rod setup and it just needed pistons/rings to get it put together (Im guessing on a budget of some sort), you need to be careful if you go chasing big dollar rods that before you know you might have been better starting from scratch and building a better 355 bottom end.

    If you also chose a smaller cam (280 Crane) the bottom end you have and/or 3/8 bolted I beam rods if you go that way will also thank you for it.
    Just my two bobs worth.

  14. #284
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rielly1978hzwagon View Post
    Is that the one i first linked ? ,
    Also what its the diffrence on H beam vs I beam apart from the looks of it ?
    Well, some say the H-beam is stronger, but weakest link goes first... The block or crank might break before your rod or rod bolts... Yeah if it was the 2.0 SJ with 3/8 ARP 8740 bolt, then thats it...

  15. #285
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    Ok rods sounds like a plan , yer this engine is a little bit of a budget engine, it started off life as maybe just a rering early headed thing with the intent of keeping cheap and hydrolic cam , then i got smart and brought vn heads and its just turned into a snow ball from there

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