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  1. #1
    Part of the furniture monaroman76's Avatar
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    Default Oil pressure debacle

    I took the tonner out to Grmusanats at Mallala a couple of weekends ago to give the old girl her first taste of the bottle. I'm using a Sniper Nitrous system with jets for 100hp (I had the 150 jets ready to slot in, but didn't make it that far!). All was great and I was having a good time blowing away my mates' cars until I glanced down at the oil pressure gauge and saw it was reading 0!
    Killed it as soon as I noticed, but it's anyone's guess as to how long I didn't have oil pressure (lesson learnt, always have an idiot light). Any way, after some fault finding at the track, I determined that there was an issue with the oil pickup. I've since pulled the motor out and found the oil pickup tube had snapped off just after the tang that secures to the main cap.
    Bearings look pretty ordinary, but it seems I caught it before any major damage was done. Crank journals all measure up okay, so just a quick polish up, a new set of bearings and I'll be good to go.
    What are people doing with rear main seal these days? I've always used the rope seals, but it's a fair bit of messing around to get them right and I'd rather avoid the bother. I think I've seen that Zok supplies neo seals that are a drop in replacement?
    Crank is a Scat 355 crank with the knurling.

  2. #2
    Part of the furniture monaroman76's Avatar
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    Any thoughts as to why rod bearings 3 and 4 were both loose in their housings? I've always thought this was a sign that those cylinders had been rattling, but in this case I suspect it was caused by the abuse it copped without oil pressure. I just expected that all the rod bearings would be the same.

  3. #3
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monaroman76 View Post
    I took the tonner out to Grmusanats at Mallala a couple of weekends ago to give the old girl her first taste of the bottle. I'm using a Sniper Nitrous system with jets for 100hp (I had the 150 jets ready to slot in, but didn't make it that far!). All was great and I was having a good time blowing away my mates' cars until I glanced down at the oil pressure gauge and saw it was reading 0!
    Killed it as soon as I noticed, but it's anyone's guess as to how long I didn't have oil pressure (lesson learnt, always have an idiot light). Any way, after some fault finding at the track, I determined that there was an issue with the oil pickup. I've since pulled the motor out and found the oil pickup tube had snapped off just after the tang that secures to the main cap.
    Bearings look pretty ordinary, but it seems I caught it before any major damage was done. Crank journals all measure up okay, so just a quick polish up, a new set of bearings and I'll be good to go.
    What are people doing with rear main seal these days? I've always used the rope seals, but it's a fair bit of messing around to get them right and I'd rather avoid the bother. I think I've seen that Zok supplies neo seals that are a drop in replacement?
    Crank is a Scat 355 crank with the knurling.
    common problem with race motors (yeah it happened to me)
    Use an aftermarket (ASR etc ) pickup or add braze to the pipe
    (my original solution)

    I use the so called Rope 'neo seal' setup conversion... aka Buick v6 seal
    or Felpro Rubber seal conversion (my books says FE40613 as the part number)
    my engines don't leak at the rear main

    From memory.. there is a sticky here about the rear seal conversion
    Last edited by Smitty2; 05-12-2018 at 08:35 PM.
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  4. #4
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    I have recently had the rear end of my crankshaft spray welded to remove the knurling. The crankshaft was then ground 2 thou oversize. I will be using felpro neoprene seals. These seals are used on a chev v6, they are fitted with the high side of the seal to the motor The welding of the crank is a must otherwise it will leak after a short time. (Ask me how I know this). The person
    welded my crank also supplied the neoprene seal so I don't know how much the seal cost from them. However I was quoted a price from someone else of $90. They cut the seal to length. You can buy the seals from Jegs or Summit a lot cheaper and cut them yourself though I understand they are a bit hard to cut.
    Last edited by keith reed; 05-12-2018 at 08:44 PM.

  5. #5
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    Did you measure the roundness of the rod big ends also, or just the crank journals?

    I use the V6 Felpro seal also, been there 6 years now without problems.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by EH179 View Post
    Did you measure the roundness of the rod big ends also, or just the crank journals?

    I use the V6 Felpro seal also, been there 6 years now without problems.
    I didn't do the work myself but yes the whole crank was checked out.

  7. #7
    Part of the furniture monaroman76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith reed View Post
    I didn't do the work myself but yes the whole crank was checked out.
    That question was aimed at me, Keith.
    Yep, I measured up the rod big ends because I was concerned about that also. The two with the suspect bearings only measured up 0.01mm out of round.

    Thanks for the input guys, I'll check out the neo seal. So Smitty, your crank still has the knurling too?

  8. #8
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    Mine still has the knurling, Buick Neo seal, almost no leaks. The knurl pulls oil back in so no real drama. No knurl for a lip seal would be ideal though. Next rebuild I will do the chev double lip seal conversion.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrZ0MfZ-9tc

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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTaxi View Post
    Mine still has the knurling, Buick Neo seal, almost no leaks. The knurl pulls oil back in so no real drama. No knurl for a lip seal would be ideal though. Next rebuild I will do the chev double lip seal conversion.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrZ0MfZ-9tc
    The last time I had the rear main done it was with the neoprene seal with the knurling still there. After a short time it leaked too much on to the exhaust for me to continue driving it. I bought the Chev double seal but was told it would be expensive to get reamed out to suit.

  10. #10
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monaroman76 View Post
    T............................, I'll check out the neo seal. So Smitty, your crank still has the knurling too?
    yes....and the last 2 engines I built (in the middle of building another)
    I used the Buick V6 seal, no leaks from that
    but
    the main lip MUST face forward
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  11. #11
    AED
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    We have worked out a way to trim the neo seals to suit the rear cap and it flat out works! Haven't had a leak, too many times to remember now, send me your rear cap and the seals and I will cut them for 30 bucks, COD return no problem. Trust me it is not a big deal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AED View Post
    We have worked out a way to trim the neo seals to suit the rear cap and it flat out works! Haven't had a leak, too many times to remember now, send me your rear cap and the seals and I will cut them for 30 bucks, COD return no problem. Trust me it is not a big deal.
    That's a pretty good deal. I can buy one cut in Brisbane for $90. A saving of about $35.

  13. #13
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monaroman76 View Post
    That question was aimed at me, Keith.
    Yep, I measured up the rod big ends because I was concerned about that also. The two with the suspect bearings only measured up 0.01mm out of round.

    Thanks for the input guys, I'll check out the neo seal. So Smitty, your crank still has the knurling too?
    It's your thread so yeah... go for it.
    The question i asked, could apply to both of you... two birds...one stone lol.

  14. #14
    Do you ever leave? EH179's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith reed View Post
    The last time I had the rear main done it was with the neoprene seal with the knurling still there. After a short time it leaked too much on to the exhaust for me to continue driving it. I bought the Chev double seal but was told it would be expensive to get reamed out to suit.
    Do you have a "working" PCV system or breathers?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by EH179 View Post
    Do you have a "working" PCV system or breathers?
    The engine has been out of the car since March of last year and is all in pieces. I can't answer that question. I had a little bit of a look in the garage and couldn't find it
    I am only now getting back into it. I had had enough of having the right colour money and getting bad results.

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