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  1. #16
    Part of the furniture monaroman76's Avatar
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    Got all the parts for reassembly, went with the Felpro neo seal. Still a little confused as to whether it needs to be trimmed or not, bloke at Outlaw Speed Shop says no, many others have said yes. I guess I'll know after I've dummy fitted it .

    New ACL standard size race bearings are measuring up with 4 thou clearance. I've ordered up some 1 thou oversize which are on their way.

  2. #17
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    Jam the seal in the grooves. It wants to sit .005" proud and no more. Mine needed obvious trimming to get there. Oh and silicone seal it in the grove and clock it 20deg to get the parting line in the groove not on the cap line. And a wee smear across the 2 seal halves.

  3. #18
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTaxi View Post
    Jam the seal in the grooves. It wants to sit .005" proud and no more. Mine needed obvious trimming to get there. Oh and silicone seal it in the grove and clock it 20deg to get the parting line in the groove not on the cap line. And a wee smear across the 2 seal halves.
    yup.... and I used a pair of side cutters to trim the seal (as it has a wire reinforcement in it)
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  4. #19
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    Yeh I snipped mine with cutters and finished it up nice on a bench grinder (side of the wheel) being careful not to cook the rubber.

  5. #20
    AED
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTaxi View Post
    Jam the seal in the grooves. It wants to sit .005" proud and no more. Mine needed obvious trimming to get there. Oh and silicone seal it in the grove and clock it 20deg to get the parting line in the groove not on the cap line. And a wee smear across the 2 seal halves.
    It should be more than .005" proud going by other seals. I fitted a windsor rear seal to a cap and measured with one side flat to the cap and the other was .035' proud of the surface.
    I make mine the same, test fit the seals in a block and bolt down the cap and the fit where they meet is perfect. I think .005" is not enough maybe?

  6. #21
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTaxi View Post
    Jam the seal in the grooves. It wants to sit .005" proud and no more. Mine needed obvious trimming to get there. Oh and silicone seal it in the grove and clock it 20deg to get the parting line in the groove not on the cap line. And a wee smear across the 2 seal halves.
    That's more or less how I did my standard rope seal (apart from silicon in the groove) and it's still leak free 2 years later. The last rope seal was in the engine 18 years with out leaking a drop. IMHO clocking the seal away from the cap parting line is one of the best tips when it comes to leak free rear main seals.

  7. #22
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    Ya know when you blew off ya mates car....

    That's probably when the rod brgs got hammered...& are now loose. Detonation is the usual cause....
    Use more octane, less nitrous...

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AED View Post
    It should be more than .005" proud going by other seals. I fitted a windsor rear seal to a cap and measured with one side flat to the cap and the other was .035' proud of the surface.
    I make mine the same, test fit the seals in a block and bolt down the cap and the fit where they meet is perfect. I think .005" is not enough maybe?
    Cheers, I'll try that next time as mine does leak the odd drop.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTaxi View Post
    Cheers, I'll try that next time as mine does leak the odd drop.
    Use a high tech texta marker on the crank to show the contact width - aim for 0.025.
    No such thing as a fixed dimension

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Actrol View Post
    Use a high tech texta marker on the crank to show the contact width - aim for 0.025”.
    No such thing as a fixed dimension
    Cheers, will do, good info.

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