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  1. #1
    casual poster 81 Dubba's Avatar
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    Default Building mild 308 from unknown short block

    Gday all. Decided to get the old WB back on the road and want to fit a 308 turbo 400 into it from stuff lying around the shed.

    Plan is to get it running with minimum of expenditure and work top end later as budget allows but also don't want to build a dog first up.

    So I need a bit of advice on the motor. Story is that I bought I worked short block off a guy a few years ago but never got around to using it. It is

    stock stroke,
    flat tops,
    balanced,
    apparently zero deck height,
    I think he said 60thou over
    Dual row timing chain

    and wasn't in car long before it was pulled out with head issues and then sold to me due to financial problems.
    Still has cross hatching in bores

    I have early heads ( fairly sure it's an early head cam) to go on it. Looking at a 'Precision' dual plane manifold on eBay ( anyone know anything about them?) and I've got a quaddie and a 650 vac sec lying around

    What I want is a little advice on how to go about the build. Cam specs are unknown so I guess I need to find out lift and duration with a degree wheel? I also am unsure about how to check my deck height for my pushrod length.

    I've built a motor before but never had to work out components by myself and would like to do most of the work myself on this one.

    Just want to match heads intake and carb to what I've got.

    Also running 3.08 diff gears in a ute and stock converter but will fit hi stall if necessary

    Any and all advice appreciated. Cheers

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Default

    I would strip it, clean it and rebuild using fresh bearing lube and new rear main seal. Blow out all your oil galleries etc. To check deck height, find top dead centre using your degree wheel. Then one quick way is a steel ruler cross the bore and slide a feeler gauge between the piston and the edge of the ruler. Proper way is using a dial gauge that mounts to a device that lets you slide the gauge off the block onto the piston.
    Pushrod length depends on valve height, type of lifters, rocker geometry etc. Its the last measurement and final part of assembly before your manifold goes on.

  3. #3
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    Default

    You wanna check your 'rocker geometry for pushrod length'.
    Start by finding out what parts you actually have and if all is in good condition to be reused.

  4. #4
    Do you ever leave? HQ308Ute's Avatar
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    Default

    zero deck height.. make sure the manifold fits.

  5. #5
    casual poster 81 Dubba's Avatar
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    Default

    [QUOTE=HQ308Ute;749181]zero deck height.. make sure the manifold fits.[/QUOTE

    Yeah I'll make sure to get it machined to fit. Anyone seen one of these before?

  6. #6
    casual poster 81 Dubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Castiron355 View Post
    I would strip it, clean it and rebuild using fresh bearing lube and new rear main seal. Blow out all your oil galleries etc. To check deck height, find top dead centre using your degree wheel. Then one quick way is a steel ruler cross the bore and slide a feeler gauge between the piston and the edge of the ruler. Proper way is using a dial gauge that mounts to a device that lets you slide the gauge off the block onto the piston.
    Pushrod length depends on valve height, type of lifters, rocker geometry etc. Its the last measurement and final part of assembly before your manifold goes on.
    Thanks will measure deck height this weekend if I can find my degree wheel.

  7. #7
    casual poster 81 Dubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Str8upal View Post
    You wanna check your 'rocker geometry for pushrod length'.
    Start by finding out what parts you actually have and if all is in good condition to be reused.
    I'll check out the numbers on the heads I have and report back here. They have all the old rocker gear still on them. Was hoping it might be ok to re-use at least short term to get things running. What should I be looking for?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 Dubba View Post
    I'll check out the numbers on the heads I have and report back here. They have all the old rocker gear still on them. Was hoping it might be ok to re-use at least short term to get things running. What should I be looking for?
    Main thing is keep the rocker bridges and rockers in the same order. Being second hand they will have worn themselves into each other. Throwing all the rockers into a bucket of degreaser and bolting it all up later won't do your used parts any favours. Keep it all in order as how it came apart and clean and assemble the same way. You will probably see scoring in the cups of the rocker an rocker tips. Mainly look for what looks flakes of metal missing off your rockers. Like when the rollers of a wheel bearing are shagged. sort of pits and flakes missing off the shiny surfaces.

    If the cam lift is around standard height you will get away with standard length pushrods.

  9. #9
    Do you ever leave? HQ308Ute's Avatar
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    yeah ive seen em, it's a slight improvement on the stock manifold, say up to 6000rpm

  10. #10
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    HI
    Do u want to freshen up the bottom end ??
    Re-ring and new mains and rod bearing plus gaskets ,welsch plugs .

    Have the bore and crank measured at a w/shop
    crack test and sonic test the bores optional
    cam bearings ??
    timing cover corrosion ??
    timing kit chain /sprockets ??

    If the bore measures ok ask machine shop about a machine hone . This works best when u only have minor wear . Gives a great result .

  11. #11
    casual poster 81 Dubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swampy View Post
    HI
    Do u want to freshen up the bottom end ??
    Re-ring and new mains and rod bearing plus gaskets ,welsch plugs .

    Have the bore and crank measured at a w/shop
    crack test and sonic test the bores optional
    cam bearings ??
    timing cover corrosion ??
    timing kit chain /sprockets ??

    If the bore measures ok ask machine shop about a machine hone . This works best when u only have minor wear . Gives a great result .
    Get it running as cheap as possible using parts I have lying around is the goal. Within reason. Ie. If standard manifold I have needs machining I'll buy a decent aftermarket rather than wasting money on machining parts that will be replaced later on anyway.

    Motor is supposed to have low kms on a rebuild and bores look good with cross hatching and no lip.

    I'd even leave the bottom end assembled as is if I could get away with it although I know it's probably a good idea to pull apart check and retorque everything.

  12. #12
    casual poster 81 Dubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HQ308Ute View Post
    yeah ive seen em, it's a slight improvement on the stock manifold, say up to 6000rpm
    So probably not worth grabbing if I have a standard already. What manifold would you recommend that I can get second hand without paying TP or Harrop prices? Performer?

  13. #13
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    Hi
    Worth pulling the timing cover and sump inspect and reseal .

  14. #14
    casual poster 81 Dubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swampy View Post
    Hi
    Worth pulling the timing cover and sump inspect and reseal .
    Sump is already off. Timing cover will also be removed. It's on an engine stand

  15. #15
    Do you ever leave? HQ308Ute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 Dubba View Post
    So probably not worth grabbing if I have a standard already. What manifold would you recommend that I can get second hand without paying TP or Harrop prices? Performer?
    yeah a performer would work ok.. there's shitloads of them around second hand.

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