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  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajvx01 View Post
    How's that cam differ from the 276?

    Sent from my MHA-L09 using Tapatalk
    I'm not sure to be honest, hopefully someone else can answer that

    I'm assuming Crane 276 is the one on this list:

    http://www.cranecams.com.au/pdfs/hol...eet_9-9-10.pdf

    Numbers look higher on the CT248 532 - seems to have more valve lift, tiny bit more LSA and the duration is different on intake and exhaust rather than the same on both sides like the 276.

    https://camtechcams.com.au/product/h...-hyd-ct248-532

    Thats all I can answer lol

    I'll need springs apparently to run that cam, I asked manufacturer about the LT1 springs and they said avoid because they've had them not withstand that particular camshaft, seems very hit and miss.

    I've got a set of bare new old stock VT heads here with the smaller combustion chambers, I'll get them fitted out with everything required and some springs able to withstand .550 lift or something so I'm in the clear.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 09-12-2018 at 02:59 PM.

  2. #122
    Part of the furniture ajvx01's Avatar
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    Interesting info! I'll sus it out as I was waiting for the new year for my cam..

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    willing to do domestic/commercial electrical work for car parts/panel work.

  3. #123
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    So uh this came up for sale and I bought it today:



    Appears to be Garrett GT35 series turbo, not sure what rear turbine and housing on it.

    I've got the manifolds, cross over pipe, gate and turbo coming.

    I think I need to relocate the alternator, can it fit on the driver side without relocating A/C and power steering pump or can it be moved lower on the engine to clear the gate pipe?

    I've found this:

    Holden V8 Mid Mount Drivers Side Alternator Bracket Kit Black

    Alternatively I guess I can move it over to where the power steering pump is, piss off the power steering pump and run a TS Astra electric over hydraulic pump mounted elsewhere - ideally I don't want to do this.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 18-12-2018 at 11:00 PM.

  4. #124
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    I'll be surprised if that bracket will work with VN heads, it'll bolt on but the alternator will likely foul on the front header pipe, looks like it mounts the alternator close to the head. I had a similar issue with my power steering pump when I went from early heads to VN heads

  5. #125
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    Are there any brackets for VN headed cars available off the shelf?

    Where do they usually relocate the alternator?

    I may need to move that cruise control box too.

  6. #126
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    Not sure if there is anything available except maybe a Torana style alternator bracket if a Commodore has room to mount it low on the drivers side? I'm not really familiar with what others are using on Commodores, mine's in a HQ and the alt is on the passenger side.

  7. #127
    Part of the furniture gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Lowe Fab sell a bracket that works but you'll lose factory p/steer & air con....lh-x torana bracket won't work (alternator hits header)

    If turbo sat further over where airbox was an alternator would fit with factory bracket.

    With that setup looks like manual rack or astra pump & alternator ends up were air compressor was.

  8. #128
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    I guess some plumbing changes wouldn't be a big deal, move the turbo over more so it sits closer to the headlight, it's an external gate setup, if the turbo comes over more that should stop alternator relocation issues, as the gate pipe looks like it wants to run straight through the alternator - no way in hell am I giving up AC lol

    Or change to an internally gated turbo.

    At least I've got the manifolds which seemed to be the hard part to get my hands on when I was searching originally.

  9. #129
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    The kit just arrived - it's pretty funny it's some of the worst welding I've seen in my life, bird shit welds everywhere haha - looks like a backyard job with a gasless MIG.

    Looks like they've put a T3 flange welded to the manifold so I can't move the turbo but I guess I can put an internally gated exhaust housing on it and block off the V band exit for the external gate to avoid that issue.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 21-12-2018 at 11:33 AM.

  10. #130
    Part of the furniture ajvx01's Avatar
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    I'm trying to find a way to mount my Alternator where the factory power steering pump was as well.. I'm also not giving up ac!
    I'm wondering if I will have to make my own brackets..

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  11. #131
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    I rewired the start, charge, fuse panel, body and engine earth circuits with 2BS cable - I didn't do the lengths properly but it'll do.

    It cranks over quick as now and the power windows work properly but still I notice with the fan on 3, the lights and high beams on at idle that it still doesn't charge the battery - voltage drops to 12.5V from 14.4-14.8V.

    The alternator is a new 80A unit.

  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daymoe View Post


    I rewired the start, charge, fuse panel, body and engine earth circuits with 2BS cable - I didn't do the lengths properly but it'll do.

    It cranks over quick as now and the power windows work properly but still I notice with the fan on 3, the lights and high beams on at idle that it still doesn't charge the battery - voltage drops to 12.5V from 14.4-14.8V.

    The alternator is a new 80A unit.
    I'm mildly concerned about the not charging at idle issue - I've ordered the 120A unit and I'll retrofit it to the car, a little bit of extra alternator won't hurt anyway, I'll keep this one as a spare.

    This way we can run all sorts of electrical goodies with a bit to spare - like the FG single thermo for example.

  13. #133
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    Anyone here converted to electric thermofan(s)? How do you find temp control with the electric thermo vs the mechanical engine fan? She gets a little warm on a high 20 degree day and driving through Melbourne traffic, I've seen it go a little above half on the gauge - but then on colder days it runs cold on the highway at sub 80 degrees even though it has a 91 degree thermostat in it.

    I figure the engine fan is limited to engine RPM, so if I'm sitting in traffic only doing 800-1000 RPM the fan is going to be doing **** all then on a cool day like in winter where ambient temps are 5-7 degrees its cold as because the fan is turning 1800-2000+ RPM.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 20-01-2019 at 11:11 PM.

  14. #134
    Part of the furniture ajvx01's Avatar
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    I used a normally open temp sensor on a relay in my 308. Just screwed it into the intake manifold. Yet to see if I can do the same on the new 304 though with the bananas.

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  15. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajvx01 View Post
    I used a normally open temp sensor on a relay in my 308. Just screwed it into the intake manifold. Yet to see if I can do the same on the new 304 though with the bananas.

    Sent from my MHA-L09 using Tapatalk
    I've got a Wolf V550 EMS in the car so will use that to trigger the relay to bring the fan on/off depending on engine temp, if you don't have an EMS like I do, could probably drill and tap a hole in the thermostat housing or radiator and use one of those VDO temp switches to cut in at say 963C like VDO part number X10232001006

    Switch Temperature X10232001006 vdo

    While I'm here whats the go with improving braking on these things? The brakes are typically 1990s Aussie car - absolutely ****ing woeful, I cooked the rear brakes on a mountain run last year, was giving it heaps on the way up, but the way down we cooked the rears and I lost brakes.

    I've found this place:

    https://ceika-store.com/products/cbk...xoCr2wQAvD_BwE

    I've got DBA T2 rotors on it all round, Remsa pads, new brake master cylinder was fitted last year.

    Or I come across this:

    https://www.aussiev8.com.au/gsl-rall...commodore.html

    VE brakes easy fit on VS? I've got 18" VY (or VZ) SS wheels on my car.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 20-01-2019 at 11:32 PM.

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