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  1. #91
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    Went to put them in and found an issue - length is perfect, fits into the rail fine.



    The locking clip position is in a slightly different location to the EV1 775s so you can't keep them secured in the rails.

    They've got the same body style as ID injectors so I'm wondering how people are holding those into the rails.

  2. #92
    Do you ever leave?
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    Sometimes the easiest way is the use a hack saw and cut new slots in the injectors to match the location of the original injectors.

  3. #93
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    I was thinking about it, the rail is held down by two bolts anyway, do you reckon they would come out without the retaining clips?

    It was an absolute bitch to get them out in the first place without the clip there it was nuts.

  4. #94
    Part of the furniture Deuce.'s Avatar
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    Clips gotta be there for a reason so i say keep it.
    Check MACE engineering website, i sent them a pic years ago that they posted on there site for knotching super6 injectors on v8 rail

  5. #95
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    Discovered something interesting - VT has a 120A alternator but it has a different case and pulley - internal fan.

    Seems there is a 120A Bosch unit that has the old school V belt pulley in the newer case:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Holden-Bos...9382895&chn=ps

    BXH1250A is the Bosch part number or ANB230 for the aftermarket copy from JAS Oceania/Burson.

    I'm looking at upgrading to this from the 85A unit because I'm interested in getting rid of the clutch fan and converting to FG Falcon single fan.

    I'm assuming I'm going to have to cut the rear leg off the 120A alternator to get it to fit looking at the differences between both of them - as well as move to a thicker gauge wire to the battery positive terminal:




  6. #96
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    Stock alternator should be okay with the fg single.
    https://forums.justcommodores.com.au...pgrade.263089/

  7. #97
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    Thanks for the response,

    I think the stereo is ****ed in my car, something is pulling current from the car when its off, I've pulled every fuse out of the car and monitored current draw from the battery with a multimeter and it still does it, it has an aftermarket stereo on it and I assume its just been slapped in rather than done properly, and the stereo may be ****ed.

    Is there a guide on how to remove the facia around the stereo? I'm probably going to replace it with one that has digital radio anyway.

    Also does anyone have the factory speaker sizes? Someones put some 6x9s in the rear but they don't fit the speaker holders properly in the back, so they don't seal and thus don't make any bass.

  8. #98
    casual poster Willie's Avatar
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    Have a look at the Just Commodores site

    https://forums.justcommodores.com.au...al-vn-vs.3908/

  9. #99
    casual poster Lacksballs's Avatar
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    Hook up a multi meter & check for any draw....

    At least you will know what you'll looking for....

    Good luck

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lacksballs View Post
    Hook up a multi meter & check for any draw....

    At least you will know what you'll looking for....

    Good luck
    I've done it already, its pulling about .5A from the battery with the car off, I've removed every fuse one by one and monitored it and with every fuse out of the car its still doing it.

    Thats why I'm suspect on the stereo - I reckon its been hacked in because the steering wheel controls nor the rear controls on the roof don't work - I assume with the proper adaptors all that would work.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 05-12-2018 at 11:07 PM.

  11. #101
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    While I'm here - intake manifolds in order from cheapest to most expensive:

    Edelbrock RPM Airgap:

    https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/ed75945

    Harrop dual plane:

    https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/autom...plane-manifold

    Torque Power dual plane:

    vn-vt dual plane

    To replace a set of bananas - is the torque power worth the few hundred bucks more than the Edelbrock RPM Airgap?

    People are saying with boost the factory bananas turn into an oven with air intake temps when you're pushing boost through it, as I'm going to be running centrifugal style I'd still prefer a dual plane style to keep it torquey down low when its making **** all boost.

  12. #102
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    With boost I doubt there'd be much difference in performance between them, the air gap may even have a slight advantage having an "air gap" under the runners to help with keeping intake temps down?

    I have an air gap on my NA 308 and am quite happy with it. It's a great manifold for the money.

  13. #103
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    Did you get to the bottom of your amperage draw? I had a similar thing happen to my old VT 5.0 and it was the alternator had an internal short, can't remember the exact amperage it was drawing but it was enough to run the battery flat overnight. To confirm it disconnect the charge wire from the battery and the amp draw will go away.

  14. #104
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    I've replaced the alternator a few weeks ago but also carried out that test when I did - I pulled the connector off the regulator and the charge wire on the B+ stud and still doing it.

    The only thing I haven't pulled from the car yet is the stereo.

  15. #105
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    I put in a new set of 24.7LB Bosch EV14 injectors today to replace the old 24LB Bosch EV1 775 blue tops it had:

    I got them out of the USA, they're factory fitment on Ford 4.6L Modular V8 - see the sneaky Ford logo



    Bosch EV1 775 vs EV14:







    Length is identical both 'long' injectors, both 14mm top feed, I did have to swap the o-rings off the 775 onto the EV14s though, the old o-rings had a larger outside diameter than the new ones for some reason.

    Car starts quicker, idles much smoother and is more responsive at low and part throttle situations.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 07-12-2018 at 05:26 PM.

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