Page 4 of 12 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 171
  1. #46
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Country Victoria
    Posts
    125

    Default

    I've landed myself a set of new old stock VT 304 heads that are bare.

    Is it worth getting some minor porting done and having bigger valves put in? I need to send them off to be fitted out with springs anyway.

    Also - head gaskets and head studs.

    I'm not too familiar with Holden stuff - is there a preferred manufacturer of MLS gaskets for the 304 and what thickness? Is it a case of just swapping over the gaskets when the new heads go on or does the block need to be machined?

    Also ARP head studs - I've seen discussion of people having to use 308 studs and cut them or something for header clearance - is there a kit for the 304 specifically so I don't have to butcher the studs?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Daymoe; 04-05-2018 at 09:45 AM.

  2. #47
    Part of the furniture Deuce.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Meremere Dragway - often!
    Posts
    978

    Default

    205-4201 is the efi '10 bolt head' stud kit
    Cometic do MLS head gaskets. .027, .040, .051 from memory. You can use thickness to adjust compression, but others will say it needs to be correct for quench, and they are probably right.

  3. #48
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Country Victoria
    Posts
    125

    Default

    Looking at pricing:

    Local supplier:

    https://www.enginemaster.com.au/arp-...-holden-308-v8

    Summit Racing (USA supplier has head bolt kit for Holden 304?)

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-205-4201

    With the head gaskets I'm tempted to go .027 - given these engines stock are 8.4:1, VT heads bring it up to approx 8.8:1, then the thin head gaskets - 8.9:1 or maybe 9.0:1?

    Anyone know the deal with quench if this would be OK?

  4. #49
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    270

    Default

    You only need to maintain a little more squish to allow for rod stretch and a little bearing wear. I'm used to dealing with dirtbikes but usually .035-.050 is the sweet spot. Then alter your chamber volume to change your compression. Generally means you can maximise your volumetric efficiency a little more by increasing compression or boost before facing preignition problems.

    You won't get an answer on here as to whether those parts will be okay or not - every engine needs to be measured up. It's on a case by case basis every time.

  5. #50
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Country Victoria
    Posts
    125

    Default

    Thanks for the tip, what I'll do is when the heads are ready to go on I'll get both the .027 and the .040 MLS gaskets and have it measured up to see if we can get away with the thinner ones.

    I'll keep the other set as a spare if I decide to go further with a engine build in the future.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 05-05-2018 at 10:05 AM.

  6. #51
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Shit Creek
    Posts
    522

    Default

    As above i have aimed at around 35-40thou

    Except with boost i wouldn't bother too much as long as its in the ball park and would lean towards bigger in that app.

    I recon for your application these heads could be spot on.
    https://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php/...cylinder-heads.


    I was going to use them on mine but the machinist i used had an unclaimed set of heads he did a good deal on for me.

    Plus being in WA freight was going to be too expensive so bought the other ones with double springs severe duty valves real nice port job etc etc that were local
    Last edited by Toe Rag; 05-05-2018 at 10:14 AM.

  7. #52
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Country Victoria
    Posts
    125

    Default

    Hello Guys

    Got my hands on a set of Yella Terra ST2032 roller rockers - slowly piecing everything together.

    Next I'll get the ARP studs and Cometic MLS gaskets.

    I'm looking to shorten up the diff ratio - it's 3.08 at the moment with 18s on it, it only turns over 2000 RPM at 110km/h, I live in a mountainous region so the highway is a lot of hills.

    I'm finding that it always wants to kick down out of 4th back into third to maintain 110km/h on these hills.

    If I could get it to turn 2300 RPM or so at 110km/h that would be ideal, I'm thinking of going to 3.45 or 3.73 gears with these kits:

    https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-Com...sAAOSwCkZZVPeK

    Will these suit an IRS diff for a VSII Caprice? I assume I'd have to upgrade the factory diff anyway once the forced induction goodies go on - has anyone got experience with Eaton Truetrac?

    Assuming .70 ratio on 4th, 235/40R18 tyres and 3.73 ratio it'll be turning 2400 RPM at 110km/h approximately, 200RPM less for 3.45.
    Last edited by Daymoe; 29-07-2018 at 07:53 PM.

  8. #53
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    270

    Default

    If going forced induction I'd leave the diff gears as is. Nothing wrong with dropping back into third - it's actually a very good thing because the overdriven gear (4th) isn't as strong as 1st to 3rd anyway.

    Easiest/cheapest option for diff gears is to find a 3.46 complete centre from a vt-vz v8 or l67 as they had the M80 diff which is stronger than the earlier IRS diff. You'll need to cut the end off the pinion on one of those and change the pinion yoke but that's not difficult. Remember to factor in the cost to have those gears fitted and shimmed correctly if you purchase that centre and gearset.

  9. #54
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Country Victoria
    Posts
    125

    Default

    Wolf V550 installed and Turbosmart FPR800 pressure regulator, made 156KW/wheels according to dyno readout - I get the car back sometime next week.

    Out of curiosity, changing to RPM Airgap manifold and 4 barrel throttle body - cruise control would be lost I guess?

  10. #55
    Part of the furniture Deuce.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Meremere Dragway - often!
    Posts
    978

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Daymoe View Post
    Out of curiosity, changing to RPM Airgap manifold and 4 barrel throttle body - cruise control would be lost I guess?
    Not necessarily. Depends on bracketery.
    I've swapped to come ttb and still got cruise. Immortality is doing similar to you and I think he is retaining cruise.

  11. #56
    Do you ever leave? immortality's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    2,998

    Default

    I am trying too....

  12. #57
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Country Victoria
    Posts
    125

    Default

    I guess you could extend the cruise control module cable to meet the linkage on the new TB but I'm not sure how well it would work with how far the cruise control cable is programmed to pull/hold the linkage for the factory TB compared to the new TB.

    It's not a real big deal but it would be nice to retain.

    Which TB do you guys use when doing this conversation? I notice EFI Hardware makes their own, Proflow has one also that's significantly cheaper.

    http://www.proflow.com.au/Catalog/51617

    https://www.efihardware.com/products/2852/4-Barrel-Dominator-Throttle-Body-1600-CFM-Kit
    Last edited by Daymoe; 16-08-2018 at 07:00 AM.

  13. #58
    Do you ever leave? immortality's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    2,998

    Default

    I'm using the Aeroflow unit.

  14. #59
    Part of the furniture gtrboyy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    1,084

    Default

    Throttle body elbow with stock throttlebody or ls shouldn't be hard to adapt cruise control.

    Still be suitable if still plan on boost later & keep it all under bonnet.

  15. #60
    casual poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Country Victoria
    Posts
    125

    Default

    Got the car back today - few niggly little driveability issues in traffic at part throttle and idle we need to sort out but initial impression is it's a hell of a lot more responsive to drive.

    After a few pulls on the Dyno it got a bit of lifter noise which calms down - might need thicker grade of oil.

    I didn't realise I could use stock throttle body with the intake manifold - does anyone have a link to the elbow?

    Thanks

Page 4 of 12 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 185i gearbox choices..
    By CycoCity in forum Holden V8's
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 17-10-2011, 09:01 PM
  2. F.S. VIC - HSV VS Senator 1996 185i $9,800
    By vb sle 253 in forum For Sale Cars
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 13-06-2011, 09:18 PM
  3. VS2 STATESMAN 5.0 HSV 185i S.E Melb
    By wildss in forum For Sale Cars
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-07-2010, 07:46 AM
  4. fs: vr commodore 5ltr 185i
    By [TOPGEAR] in forum For Sale Cars
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 31-03-2010, 10:59 PM
  5. VSII Caprice HSV 185i
    By pipes in forum For Sale Cars
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 18-05-2009, 06:25 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •