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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deuce. View Post
    Sorry to hear that gtrboyy. I hope you find motivation/$$/time to give it another try.



    Hi zok,
    Can I ask your prefered brand of 4-bolt cap and why? Say, for your stage 2.
    i only use the M&W caps , i like the fact that i can set the interference on the caps , also the foot of the cap is on one plane instead of stepped so once machined the cap lands in the same place each time it's fitted it's easier to machine accurately
    ONE STOP MOTORSPORT SHOP - engine building and development - tuning and complete fuel systems-- latest dyno dynamics dyno --click the link to see our facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zok-R...9505334?ref=hl

  2. #32
    Part of the furniture Deuce.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zok race carbs View Post
    i only use the M&W caps , i like the fact that i can set the interference on the caps , also the foot of the cap is on one plane instead of stepped so once machined the cap lands in the same place each time it's fitted it's easier to machine accurately
    Thanks mate, that's good info right there.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deuce. View Post
    Thanks mate, that's good info right there.
    yeah no worries
    the block dropped off today has them fitted and the outside is too low for the cap and when torqued up distorts the main tunnel so we we have to fix it which is going to be lots of fun just like the rest of the bloody engine looks like a 1st year old apprentice was learning on it
    ONE STOP MOTORSPORT SHOP - engine building and development - tuning and complete fuel systems-- latest dyno dynamics dyno --click the link to see our facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zok-R...9505334?ref=hl

  4. #34
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    Last time I checked a 40% increase in clamping force was significant.......

    Better tell Jason his 365 hillclimb engine can't possibly have survived 6 years of competition use with 2 bolt caps & 1/2" studs.

    1/2" studs is not a 4 bolt, but it sure as shit is better than 7/16" studs & at a fraction of the cost.
    Metal removal from the mains is minimal for the bigger studs, has no effect on mains strength whatsoever.
    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK383 View Post
    Last time I checked a 40% increase in clamping force was significant.......

    Better tell Jason his 365 hillclimb engine can't possibly have survived 6 years of competition use with 2 bolt caps & 1/2" studs.

    1/2" studs is not a 4 bolt, but it sure as shit is better than 7/16" studs & at a fraction of the cost.
    Metal removal from the mains is minimal for the bigger studs, has no effect on mains strength whatsoever.
    personally i think it's a total waste of time and money but that's my opinion just like you have yours and that's whats great about this country we are all allowed to speak our mind
    ONE STOP MOTORSPORT SHOP - engine building and development - tuning and complete fuel systems-- latest dyno dynamics dyno --click the link to see our facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zok-R...9505334?ref=hl

  6. #36
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    1/2 inch stud mains with strapped caps. Can it be of any benefit?

  7. #37
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    Probably not a lot of benefit in strapping the caps - I've never seen a broken holden cap that couldn't be put down to some other contributing factor.

    1/2" studs definitely do help, I use them pretty often, got a couple of 355's turning 7500+ rpm on 1/2" studs & stock caps with no issues.
    I have had the chance to pull down engines with 7/16 studs that were showing decent cap walk, convert them to 1/2" studs & then get them back in for freshens down the track & see significantly reduced cap walk (to the point of negligible).
    For the cost of a set of clevo studs, a couple of hours work & a line hone it's an affordable & effective upgrade.
    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK383 View Post
    Probably not a lot of benefit in strapping the caps - I've never seen a broken holden cap that couldn't be put down to some other contributing factor.

    1/2" studs definitely do help, I use them pretty often, got a couple of 355's turning 7500+ rpm on 1/2" studs & stock caps with no issues.
    I have had the chance to pull down engines with 7/16 studs that were showing decent cap walk, convert them to 1/2" studs & then get them back in for freshens down the track & see significantly reduced cap walk (to the point of negligible).
    For the cost of a set of clevo studs, a couple of hours work & a line hone it's an affordable & effective upgrade.
    Thank you mate, you're a gentleman. Keep getting fed bullshit like "you'll never stop cap walk with stock caps", guess the proof is in the pudding. Half inch studs it is then!

  9. #39
    Part of the furniture gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Fingers crossed my current 355 has 1/2" studs already done 'cos might get messy when raced end of year lol

  10. #40
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    Other factors that cause bottom end to wear out quickly, shit oil, oil pressure, engine tune or lean out, windage issues, & or good ass thrassing using rev limiter! and much more!

    These old blocks hate high Rpms, just was not designed too!

    But if theres next time ill be going 1/2 stud conversion.
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  11. #41
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    40% more clamp. I'll have some of that.

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