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  1. #31
    Newbie Captain Saftey's Avatar
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    If you like what we do, check us out on. Facebook.com/Fucit Racing

  2. #32
    casual poster 1time's Avatar
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    Mmmmmkay so where were we, Intake.

    The intake on this currently is an ebay special i got for under $300 brand new, probably procomp, and definitely chinese (china can be good, but not in this case).

    Heres a few piccies of what we're dealing with straight out of the box.





    As you can see through these shots of the plenum, right angled runner entries, the plenum floor is actually lower than the head port floor meaning air literally travels in an "s" shape to get to where it needs to go.


    Obviously this intake has no business being this crap, so i did what i could to make it better for as little coin as possible.

    We started with this setup:



    Beer definitely helps, and the ol battery drilled copped a flogging of epic proportions - the bearings are non compliant with my side loading lol.



    Still i managed to get a head start on one of the ports, the material we were working with was almost an inch thick in places, so we got right into it.
    It would pay to mention i sorted out a compressor and an air die grinder at this point to speed things up.








    See how much further you can see into the port on the right? i used this as a gauge for how much i figured it'd flow. More port visible, more flow. (Not sure if im right, who really cares)





    As you can see the ports sort of evolved over a few weekends - this kind of work sucks on your hands/wrists and hats off to the boys that can deal with it for hours on end but i couldn't. I also get impatient waiting for aluminium to get out of my way.

    Essentially i've opened up the plenum by removing up to 2 cups (just a guess) of shavings, my best investment was a really staunch cutter (aluminium specific) off ebay for $15, and just let the cutter do the shaping. What i wanted was something that was choking the motor the least it could, so by radiusing the runner entries i figure i've improved flow at least a little bit. Anyone with more knowledge than me pls feel free to chime in with criticism because its how we learn. It's what its all about.

    I focussed on making the entries as symetrical as i could, without favouring one side or port. I kept the middle two ports on each side similar, and the front and rear ports similar.

    I need to also thank and reference TK's work - the how to fix a torker, and sorting a harrop intake threads were my inspiration for giving this a crack so if you're thinking about it get across those threads.




    I will also add that this work was performed POST powercruise, so we actually went out there using the stocko. will be Interesting to test the results with my right foot.

  3. #33
    Do you ever leave? HPE PETE's Avatar
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    top work mate 10 points for having a good go at it.

  4. #34
    casual poster 1time's Avatar
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    Should I have gone further?

  5. #35
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1time View Post
    Should I have gone further?
    shouldnt have touched it, without raising the runners what you have done is removed the shear effect LOL ...

    you need to put a spacer on it and try some crap out but yeah ....

  6. #36
    Do you ever leave? cava454's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulzig View Post
    shouldnt have touched it, without raising the runners what you have done is removed the shear effect LOL ...

    you need to put a spacer on it and try some crap out but yeah ....
    Meh. Just give it moreRPM.

  7. #37
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava454 View Post
    Meh. Just give it moreRPM.
    gear and stall fixes EVERYTHING ...

  8. #38
    Do you ever leave? v8bulldogs's Avatar
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    Not sure if your onto it or not but a leather riggers glove or welders glove lets you guide that long shank and takes the side load off the drill and onto your guide hand.

  9. #39
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    Did similar on my redline torker on hq heads ages ago.
    It certainly made it feel a lot more reponsive when down in the rpm.
    Could not feel much difference up top but guess it was there also no dyno or strip here.

    I found cutting alloy a spray of wd40 occasionally or the like helped the cutters a bit to

  10. #40
    casual poster 1time's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by v8bulldogs View Post
    Not sure if your onto it or not but a leather riggers glove or welders glove lets you guide that long shank and takes the side load off the drill and onto your guide hand.
    Actually, i didnt even think of that. And that's a wicked idea brother - definitely squirelling that one away for future shenannigans.

    Quote Originally Posted by Toe Rag View Post
    I found cutting alloy a spray of wd40 occasionally or the like helped the cutters a bit to
    I actually never sprayed anything on the job - i'd imagine WD40 or CRC would sort out the swarf a bit.. I found having a single cut (as opposed to cross cut) burr helped the most, the cross cut burrs i had weren't very deep and the material kept getting stuck in the valleys and making it useless after about 2 mins. then you'd have to hit it with the wire brush to get back into action. That single cut burr just made absolute butter out of the thing it was fantastic. if i was to do it again i'd stick with that bad boy all the way through.

  11. #41
    Newbie Pon465's Avatar
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    You crack me up ! Thats gold when you came into the shop i asked pete " so mate do you think it will live ? pete was like yeh should do" I was a little unsure myself but when you sent us the vid of the car somewhere hidden in smoke i was still laughing. i agree with pete 10 points for having crack sometimes you got kill a few monkeys to get to the moon.
    oh that shirt is awesome! ugly but awesome good on you mate

  12. #42
    casual poster 1time's Avatar
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    Well after doing this stuff to the intake, and reading the VN heads sticky from start to finish I've come to the conclusion I need to have a go at the heads.. Off they come! I'll be sure to keep you lot updated on how much RACE POWER I can coax from a STD valve head, should be a breeze, what could go wrong.

    Also I'd love some banter about using an mls gasket (just one), splitting it up and just using half of it per side for a 0.020 head gasket.. I seem to remember someone banging on about it here and if it's cheap and dodgy I'm all ears. She's got head studs so I should be able to clamp the heads down good and tight. If I get enough "yeah just do itttttttt" from you guys I'll do it (assuming it will seal up and actually work).

    Block is NOT zero decked, paulzig was talking about quench in another thread and it got me thinking about a dodgy solution to squish it up and seeing as the heads will be off anyways I may as well mess around with it aye.

    Yeeeeeeeep!

  13. #43
    Part of the furniture
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    Splitting the mls is fine
    Your a doer
    Never worry about aesthetics - the engine only has feelings - no vanity.

  14. #44
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    Done a few dodgys with top & bottom layer of MLS as head gaskets to close up the quench - works just fine, just use a bit of hylomar on the 'gaskets'.

    KIS on the heads, all they need for what you're doing is the short turns rolled over properly, guide bosses thinned, bowls tidied up & lumps knocked off.
    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

  15. #45
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    Sweet as, that's the info I need. Cheers TK.

    What is the best tool/bit to knock off lumps? I have a few iron bits and I'm not keen to change port shape or size (beyond knocking lumps and blending stuff). But I have no sanding rolls or stones, would you leave it straight off the carbide?

    I have a few threads bookmarked to reference so I don't waste my time.

    Also something I've been tossing up is the exhaust port mods, seeing as my camshaft has 259 deg @ 0.050 on the exhaust lobe (and a non-manly 243 deg on the intake) is that good enough reason to leave it alone? Leave the exhaust port stock and let the cam keep the bastard open for days and focus on tidying the intake port? I know nothing about the ideal relationship between intake and exhaust port flow % and how it affects power production.

    What does everyone think about making the best out of this situation?

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