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  1. #391
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    The engine is all just sitting together with the parts i've accumulated over the last few months. The air cleaner stud measures 9" long as the plan was originally to have the entire filter out the top of the scoop for a bit of "WTF". Probably won't do that straight away now i'll remove spacers until it all fits under the scoop and keep it sensible until we've got it running.




















    The fuel supply will come in at the rear of the fuel log, feed the carb then any excess bled off by the reg at the front and head back to the tank. All -8an Methanol compatible Push lock hose. Reg has vacuum port which we'll use to keep the pressure down at idle (where theres vacuum) and have full pressure at WOT. hoping for 4-5psi at idle and 9+psi at WOT.









    Fuel pump is bolted to the wooden spacers we made for the fuel cell, fuel filter straight off the pump and up through the cabin to a firewall bulkhead and to the motor.

  2. #392
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    Big shout out to struggler who rustled up a 241 head and sent it to me! It arrived Monday and will get stripped and ported before being sent off for machining + valve springs.






    Strugglers head on the left ready for disassembly








    It's been an awesome experience working on the heads finding what cutters do what and which tools work the best. I started off with a 240V drill with the cutter in the chuck but eventually it would vibrate itself loose and gave me the shits so I got a Makita cordless rotary tool and godddddam, wack an aggressive cutter in it and hold on for dear life its got that much curry. Cuts through Aly like cheese, its great. Not to mention lighter, more ergonomic etc.






    Good shot of where the rocker stud lump breaks through into the port once its ground down. Also note the minimal material removal on the right hand side of the valve guide boss. i'd say 85% of the intake port is untouched currently.












    And finally the lols


  3. #393
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    A few shots of the exhaust ports, which have has a little more work with the fine cutter on the bowls but if you look closely you can still make out the fine casting lines in the bowl walls, I've barely removed any material from there at all just ran the cutter over it once to clean the shit off it.




















    I'll swing a couple more shots up when I get to the exhaust port openings, little bit of work still to go doing those and running the double cut burr over all the surfaces of the ports to clean the casting off.

  4. #394
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    Looks exactly the same as mine, kinder like we winged it from the same posts haha, I did buy a flash sanding roll kit and give it a hit with that, made my rushed porting look better
    Last edited by 10WHK; 21-11-2018 at 01:35 AM.

  5. #395
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    I ran the right hand side of the inlet valve boss right around till it was smooth, the burr I had was perfect width, and I pulled the LH side back until it was a nice transition from the wall to the bowl whether it helps I have no idea it just felt like a better transition with the finger guide

  6. #396
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    I also opened the inserts Until the where same size as port entry, gently Haha

  7. #397
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    Get the cowl fitted properly and paint the bonnet buddy its worth the dollars even for a skid rig, repliglass do a good cowl

  8. #398
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    A couple of quick tips.....
    Dip those cutters in some ATF or spray them with WD40, silicon spray, carby clean or similar to keep them from loading up. They will cut cleaner too.
    With the vac referenced reg for meth...... be very careful. It works ok, most of the time..... I did the same thing years ago but didn't account for the manifold vacuum 6000rpm and minimal load makes in top gear at a burnfest. Long story short the fuel pressure dropped to nothing and bad things happen quickly. It would also drop pressure and stall as the car slowed on the quarter and even run the fuel bowls dry on the return road. There is a way around it if you want to fiddle and own a drill press.


    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  9. #399
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    I guess i could unplug it and just run a solid pressure, maybe i shouldn't be so cheap and add that second pump so i'm not so worried about running out of fuel but Plenty of dudes run alcohol carbys with good success and not all of them would have mech pumps delivering 3psi at idle and 10+ at med/hi rpm. What did you do to fix it struggler?

    Also thx for the tips on WD40 on the cutter, i figured that out earlier this week as well - amazing the difference in surface finish it delivers, and cuts far quicker too. win win.

  10. #400
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    I got a bloke in the Brisbane area to modify my carby base for the vacuum source.

    He drilled a hole through the base and primary throttle shaft. He then drilled another hole for the little vac fitting you can see in the pic. There is a small channel milled into the gasket face of the base connecting the two passages that gets sealed with the base to main body gasket.

    How it works is as the throttle gets opened it closes off the vacuum passage so the reg only sees vacuum at idle and just above idle. It worked very well for me with the only issue bring in the braking area with a closed throttle and heaps of manifold vacuum...... it would empty the bowls in a few seconds with no fuel pressure. The fix was just to blip the throttle a couple of times whilst slowing down.

    The blokes name was Ray Edwards, he went under the name of Ray JE. I think he has a Facebook page. I think there are a few here that don't like him but he has done quite a bit for me and I never had a problem. I honestly found him quite knowledgeable and he does carbs for some very fast cars.

    Hope this helps !

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  11. #401
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    Any progress on the rocket buddy. Christmas is the perfect time to kill car funds

  12. #402
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    Boys, pretty much finished a head. Bought a 10 pack of cartridge rolls and a mandrel for $30 to finish off the ports and make them a little more respectable. Photos of a pretty much finished head below. Could do with another 30 mins on the cartridge rolls but i have a serious case of the 'its good enoughs'.

    Havent been very active lately. Got stuck back in today on a day off and came up with these results.




























    Looking at those photos i can honestly say they dont look that bad in real life, the photos highlight the extra work they need to finish off to a shop standard.


    Next purchase will be valve springs, PAC duals with Ti retainers and seals etc. Lap the valves and send them to get skimmed. Once the heads are squared away the short Block will be the home stretch, still looking for a rod and piston to jam in.

    Hope everyone had a good xmas, we had a good one making a cricket bat out of scrap timber and a half taped tennis ball that swung like a demon.

  13. #403
    in the shed buildin shit 3554me's Avatar
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    I don’t get on here much lately but farout mate you’re getting it done
    so lots of luck and I’ll be checking up as I’m keen to see this smash the
    tyres !!!
    + 1 for rayJE
    10.28@131.99 on e85 26x10
    10.34@130.66 on e85 255 radial


  14. #404
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    Looks good buddy very familiar haha, looks like you spent a bit more time smoothing out everything then I did

  15. #405
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    Hard to believe this will be the first post of the new year and we're already 5 months in and while theres been a bit of a break from the forums/youtube there's been some progress on the car during that time.

    Starting with the engine, the bits and pieces of engine crap i had have been sold to a mate for mock up - so the block i had, rotating assembly with one missing piston/rod, crank, the one buggered head i'd been hacking at with the grinder, main caps bla bla bla basically everything i could spare i gave to him to start mocking up for his exhaust manifolds and engine plates in his galant wagon. gonna be a pissa. Anyways all that made way for a low km engine out of a vy/vz crewman? im unsure what model but it had 180,000k's on it and i got to hear it run in the car before yanking it and gave it a comp test while i was there looking at it. came up all good. It was the last of the ls1's i believe and had a drive by wire manifold on it and will make the perfect base for what we're doing here.

    I bought a cam and springs, the springs are PAC beehives that are made to deal with the cam which is a GM Motorsport Street Racer II, the duration is 231 243 @ 0.050" and the valve lift is 0.617" 0.623" the lobe sep angle is 113deg. Manual Ls1's seem to make around the 300rwkw mark with this cam and it was cheaper than the american cam i was planning on getting, i ended up getting the cam and springs for the same price as i would have got just the cam from the states. It's not as application specific however at the very least it gives me something to upgrade in future if i want more power, and i think it will be fine in the mean time.

    I also purchased a brand new converter and flexplate, the converter is a 10" converter shop item made to deliver a 3800rpm stall speed, its been custom built to mate the LS1 to a th400 so it has a longer pilot spigot thingo and very thick mounting pads etc so theres no screwing around. The flexplate is a TCI unit and is sfi rated etc good for T brake yada yada.

    Theres some other little bits and pieces i've got including an automatic Thermo fan relay kit - set the temp on it and it uses a probe you shove in the radiator fins to switch the fans on automatically. Will remove the manual switch i had as i found i was always forgetting to switch it on and off.

    An aeroflow transcooler with a fan built in to it - has its own temp sensor integrated into the cooler and uses that to switch its own fan on and off so i dont need to worry and the trans is kept at a more stable temperature.

    Plan is to wire in LEDs in parallel with both fans (thermo and trans cooler) so i can keep an eye on when they're operating.

    Anyway next up i'll get the boys around to drink beer and build the motor.

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