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  1. #376
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    Good to see you’re back in action mate. I bought your Crane Rockers. Let us know if you need a hand with anything. 👍

  2. #377
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  3. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by Castiron355 View Post
    Good to see you’re back in action mate. I bought your Crane Rockers. Let us know if you need a hand with anything. 👍
    Thanks buddy, might need a hand getting to the bottom of a few beers when we're putting the engine together or something I'll hit you up.

  4. #379
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    Sounds like a plan.!

  5. #380
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    Well gents stuffs been rocking up left right and center, got onto a new block the other weekend that has fewer split bores than the last one. Entire fuel system down to the last hose and fitting is here and installed, i've left the engine bay plumbing until the motor is in the car so i get the lengths spot on but that part of the build is squared away.

    Motor is back to where it was with a usable block now, bores still have original cross hatch in them so will get tingled with the dingle. Got 7 pistons and rods and needing one more to get the bottom end moving. Does anybody have one out of a set that they want to part with?? pls get in contact if you do. If you're a random and cant PM me on aussie V8 send me a message on my youtube (vid above), or on facebook. Once i have a piston and rod i can assemble the short block with new rings and bearings and fly cut the pistons.

    Heads are in the middle of getting hand ported by me, awaiting some more aggressive carbides to show up before continuing. The aluminium is pretty soft especially compared to the old cast iron VNs but it kills my forearms doing more than an hour or so at a time so i'd like to get a real staunch cutter in there to get the most value for my time. The intakes are getting the rocker stud lump completely removed until it breaks through, the swirl ramp mostly removed and the guide boss skinnied the rest is just running the cutter over the port to remove the cast marks and a bit of blending. The rocker bolts will get some sealant put on them so theres no vacuum leak. Exhaust ports are similar, leave the floor of the port alone only remove the casting, widen the sides and shape the roof exit so it makes a proper semi circle, rest is blended with the valve guide boss skinnied in a similar way to the intakes. It'll be nothing flash, and it may not do heaps for power but its better than stock and it'll make me feel good knowing i had a go. The heads will cop some double springs/locks/retainers whatever fits in the stocko spring seat, a milling of a lifetime for heaps of comp, and some new shorter pushrods to suit.

    I have the MSD 6014 here and its ready to be wired in when i can be bothered.

    Picked up some 15 x 4 stocko front runners for it which im looooooooooving, fits the look perfectly and i got them cheap.

    Also picked up a Melling oil pump locally.

    Left to buy:

    Cam
    Timing chain
    Lifters + cups/buckets or whatever they are
    Spring kit
    Pushrods
    Cam, Rod, Main Bearings
    Rings
    One piston and rod
    Gasket kit
    Valley plate
    Balancer
    Electric water pump
    steam port things (can these just be blocked?? whats the go boys?)
    Coils
    Plugs
    Plug wires
    Alternator
    Alternator bracket
    Short ass belt for the alternator
    Sump + pickup
    Sump baffle insert (one of the bolt in jobbies with trap doors and good things)
    Converter (pls if anyone has one that isnt three million dollars get in contact, be mindful of the intended use of the car, it'll need to be a spicy one)
    Rod shop conversion kit
    Possibly shorten the tailshaft?
    Some methanol
    Probably an alcohol jet kit
    4" mild pipe and assorted couplers for exhaust things. We'll see what it ends up like may just get collector extentions.




    Then skids
    Last edited by 1time; 23-10-2018 at 05:31 PM. Reason: Adding things i forgot to the list of stuff to buy

  6. #381
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    Been busy porting the heads over the last couple weeks, bought some Chinese cutters that are a lot more aggressive than the double cut burr i was using. Well worth the $30 they cost they save time and save your wrists. The unfortunate thing is if you get carried away they get you into trouble very quickly and I've busted through intake port on no 7 underneath the swirl ramp. It happened whilst i was removing bulk material from the area to try and get it down to the same depth as the other side, which after blowing through to a coolant passage and then subsequently reading some american diy ls head porting threads is a no-no.

    So i'm up for a new bare head. Not the end of the world as they haven't been worked on other than the 1.5hrs of porting i'd put into that head, would have been a different story if they had been milled, seats cut, valves cut etc. thank fark.

    The way i've been porting has been working well, i've broken it into 4 parts for the intake ports - We've got remove rocker stud lump, remove swirl ramp, skinny down the valve guide boss, light blend + casting removal of whole port. I've found that getting all the rocker stud lumps removed on all the intake ports and then moving onto the next job is better than fully completing each port in one go. By doing the same thing 8 times one after the other you get pretty good at being able to tell how far you've gone and just generally being able to replicate results. The exhaust port has 3 parts to it - Skinny valve guide, open up roof at the header flange so its a complete semi circle, full blend barely touching the floor. Doing these things i'm sure will guarantee some gains without busting out the calculator and messing with sizes and percentages that i know nothing about anyways.

    Other than that the fitting for the master cylinder has shown up which means the rear brakes are officially removed and blocked off.

    The block and crank will be sent off for new cam bearings and a quick measure to order some main and rod bearings, probably will get the rods fitted with arp bolts and get them sussed at the same time.

  7. #382
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    I’d look into a set of Scat Procomp I beams before throwing money at the stock rods they’re not that expensive and a mile better then the stockers, I nearly went that option in mine but stuck with stockos and new style genuine bolts as it’s supposed to be cheap so it doesn’t hurt my pocket when it breaks not if it breaks when it does haha

  8. #383
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    Good to hear you're moving along with it !

    If you are going to flog the piss out of it I would lose the steam port plumbing. I drill and tap the holes for 1/8 NPT and fit brake bleed fittings so when you first get the thing going you can purge the air. Once that is done tighten them up and forget them.

    If you fit ARP bolts to stock rods get the machine shop to check the big end I.D. You may need to get them honed ever so slightly as the better bolts deform the rod more than a stock bolt.

    If you are still looking for a stock LS1 rod and piston I can have a look, I usually chuck that stuff in the bin ! I think I have a single 241 head also if you are still looking for one. I'll poke around and see if any of that other stuff is gathering dust here too.

    Keep up the good work !

  9. #384
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    Nice one Struggler! pm me if you find anything - would be cool to have parts on the car from people i (kinda) know. I've got some cash sitting there for random stuff i find that i need so let me know what you want for whatever comes up in your searches.

    Awesome info on the steam ports, makes sense to wack some brake bleed fittings on there. I already have a 1/8 npt tap on hand from the turbo build so it'll feel good using it again, i knew i'd need it some day.

    Lowhk - id love to make this a decent engine but if i throw a rod and a piston in it'll just about add another year to the build, which i can't justify... instant gratification is something i struggle with, as you can probably tell haha so stock rotating assembly it is.

  10. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by struggler View Post
    Good to hear you're moving along with it !

    If you are going to flog the piss out of it I would lose the steam port plumbing. I drill and tap the holes for 1/8 NPT and fit brake bleed fittings so when you first get the thing going you can purge the air. Once that is done tighten them up and forget them.

    If you fit ARP bolts to stock rods get the machine shop to check the big end I.D. You may need to get them honed ever so slightly as the better bolts deform the rod more than a stock bolt.

    If you are still looking for a stock LS1 rod and piston I can have a look, I usually chuck that stuff in the bin ! I think I have a single 241 head also if you are still looking for one. I'll poke around and see if any of that other stuff is gathering dust here too.

    Keep up the good work !
    What’s the go with deleting the steam ports. Why not keep them hooked up?

  11. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava454 View Post
    What’s the go with deleting the steam ports. Why not keep them hooked up?
    You can leave them hooked up if you like but if you don't have any of the plumbing then you can get around it.

    As far as I can see they are only there to remove air from the high points in the water jacket, even factory the rear ones are blanked off in earlier motors. Big RPM will move any air pockets to the radiator anyway. The bleed fittings are really just for piece of mind.

    For a stocker that won't see north of 2200 RPM then I can see the steam pipes being an advantage, particularly if no-one bleeds the cooling system when they fill it.

    JMHO

  12. #387
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    I'll block them off and see what happens, sweet idea with the bleeds. Anyone know if the steam port is the highest point on the stock (VT-VZ) Ls1 setups? where do the ports lead to? top of the rad or something?

  13. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1time View Post
    I'll block them off and see what happens, sweet idea with the bleeds. Anyone know if the steam port is the highest point on the stock (VT-VZ) Ls1 setups? where do the ports lead to? top of the rad or something?
    Yeah they go back to the top of the radiator.

  14. #389
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    These are the bleeds I use, they come in a pack of 4..... very convenient !

    https://shop.rocketindustries.com.au...7#.W-n4n9UzaUk

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