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Thread: Stroker reliefs

  1. #1
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    Default Stroker reliefs

    First up, this is how I do it, others may do it different, but this is the way that I find the quickest & best.

    This one is a 383 with COME crank & Scat procomp rods, but the method is the same for any combo.

    There are 2 ways you can go about it - the clean OCD way, pull it apart & back together 11ty times & keep it all clean to avoid damaging any nice new parts - takes hours & hours.
    Then there is my way, forget about keeping it clean, for the most part ignore the iron fillings everywhere - but do it so that those fillings don't do any damage to anything you'd rather not hurt!

    To this effect what I do is not use the new pistons or new bearings, just the crank & rods.
    I use some stock 304 pistons with the skirt cut away to clear the crank, in std size so they are real loose in .030" (or whatever) bores - with .030" clearance on the pistons any junk that gets between them & the bores won't get stuck & score the bores, so you can be a real grubby bastard & it don't matter a shit.
    Same with bearings, I use junk second hand bearings.

    I bolt the crank in with only 3x main caps - less stuff to get in the way.
    Just use stock bolts, studs take longer & are not required, you don't even need to torque the bolts, just nip em up.

    From there spin the crank over, make sure it clears everything & if it doesn't grind that shit out of the way.
    This one had a small section at the back that needed 10 seconds with the grinder to sort.



    This block was previously a 2 bolt 355, so it already has some stroker reliefs, but they are not big enough for it's new life as a 383.



    Good rods onto junk pistons with junk bearings, throw them in & nip up the bolts (oil the bolt threads a bit & a little oil on the bearings doesn't hurt).
    Not even close to clearing:





    Swing the rod out of the way & grind a bit, swing it down to check where more has to come out, repeat process untill it clears then check you have a good .060" clearance (an LED torch helps here).





    To be continued
    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

  2. #2
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TK383 View Post
    First up, this is how I do it, others may do it different, but this is the way that I find the quickest & best....................
    To be continued
    luv it... especially the last bit
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  3. #3
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    Default

    Next is where they hit on the other side of the bore, now this can be a PITA, you really kinda need a long snout grinder & oval cutter to do these, hard to see in there with the crank & rods still in & have to be carefull not to grind the crank or rod, but with steady hands on the grinder it's doable easy enough.
    Most 355's barely need any off here, this one just happens to need quite a bit due to the longer stroke & rod design.



    Process is the same, swing rod in to check & out the way to grind, a bit of grease on the rod where it hits the block makes it easier to see where you have to grind, for now it don't matter what it looks like, you just gotta get clearance.



    Both reliefs rough cut:



    Repeat another 7 times, once you get in a rythm it doesn't take that long.
    Before switching the rods into the new pair of bores give the crank pin they are going on a good wipe to get any swarf off, keep the rod bolt threads clean & keep crap out of the bearings - compressed air helps with that.

    Here's the crap encrusted dummy pistons, you can see where the skirt is cut away:



    Crank out, not a mark on it, just some swarf.



    Reliefs all rough cut, everything clears now:





    Now is the time to go through & tidy it all up, it's also a good idea to knock some more out of the reliefs near the cam - hard to see in there with the crank & rods in, so you can't quite tell how much clearance you have, best to take a bit more & be sure off it.
    While the grinder is out break the sharp edge at the bottom of the bores with a sanding roll, stops the piston skirts getting scuffed up.





    Job done, yes it really is that easy, this was a 383 with fairly bulky rods & we are no-where near the water jacket, you'll only go through using a big ass old school H-beam rod with a 383, the trick is to watch what you're doing & only take as much metal out as you have to.
    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

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    Next she'll get a run through the hotwash, then into the clean room for a proper dummy assemble with the good pistons etc to check deck heights & bearing clearances, then the rotator can go out for a balance while I sort the decks & get it ready for final assembly.
    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

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    "It really is that easy"...not. Not easy. I did mine the same way. Still not easy but it is the best way.

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    LOL, maybe I done too many of them, I reckon it's dead simple!
    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

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    It is dead simple...if you know how.

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    Definately a how to Sticky. thanks Tony great post.

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    Yep, sticky, clearly worth it.
    This is a serious upgrade and how to for the AV8.
    Last edited by RedTaxi; 20-07-2015 at 06:12 PM.

  10. #10
    Part of the furniture Tim304's Avatar
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    Your a good man Tony for taking the time to share your knowledge.....

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    Great write up TK, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

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    The thread title is VERY deceptive ... I thought another service was being advertised ...

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    A sticky result from a happy ending.. hey, what's not to like?

    Another fine job - you've done like a pro - there TK.. love it..

  14. #14
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    ..and thats why we do STD stroke engines, 355s are too much work for me ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulzig View Post
    ..and thats why we do STD stroke engines, 355s are too much work for me ...
    Stock stroke. Just add 4000 extra RPM

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