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Thread: Stroker reliefs

  1. #16
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava454 View Post
    Stock stroke. Just add 4000 extra RPM
    No for a 500HP deal stock stroke vs 383 it'd be about 1500RPM ...

    I'll take 7500-8000RPM for a drag only deal anytime of the week if I had the stall and gear ..

  2. #17
    Do you ever leave? cava454's Avatar
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    Default Stroker reliefs

    Meh. Just spin it til it brakes. Extra 500 on the limiter every pass until it goes slower
    Last edited by cava454; 20-07-2015 at 09:08 PM. Reason: a

  3. #18
    Do you ever leave? HPE PETE's Avatar
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    pretty much exact the same way i do it, i also use a stock 304 piston with a cut out to clear counterweight and just add some tape to the skirt to take up clearance if the bore is already oversize, i also have an old 4.00" LS stroker piston i use as well and have used this with up to 4.155 bores with a few layers of thick tape .....like tk i always clearance grind before the bores are honed so your not scratching fresh bores and you dont have to be anal trying to get every particle out grinding dust out of the bore as your only scratching old parts, much quicker and less damaging than final machining the block 1st

  4. #19
    AED
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    Hi Pete and Tony,
    that is the way I used to do them then I had a think about it and I did a couple of drawings with all the dimensions [measured from the main tunnel] of the cut outs and angles etc and the distance from the front of the block both sides.
    Just bang the block up into the mill, get er level, set the angles and cut away using the dig readout. Takes about 1/2 hour to do the lot, just clean up the edges with a sanding roll and your good to go.
    Have drawings for 383 holden, chev, 308 with different rod combos as well.

  5. #20
    Part of the furniture mid11s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AED View Post
    Hi Pete and Tony,
    that is the way I used to do them then I had a think about it and I did a couple of drawings with all the dimensions [measured from the main tunnel] of the cut outs and angles etc and the distance from the front of the block both sides.
    Just bang the block up into the mill, get er level, set the angles and cut away using the dig readout. Takes about 1/2 hour to do the lot, just clean up the edges with a sanding roll and your good to go.
    Have drawings for 383 holden, chev, 308 with different rod combos as well.
    Ol mate does it the same way , mills it up with no rotating assembly needed . Nice work tk ..

  6. #21
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    Yeah a lot of places also have cnc programs now a days but this is a great guide for the do it yourselfer! Top work once again guys!

    I know when I put my first 355 together, I asked around ( before I knew of AV8) and got some crazy quotes for clearancing by hand before I came across a machine shop that had a cnc program. Cost bugger all compared to the man hours needed by hand. Was going to do it myself but when you add up the time vs money equation, some people have different values!

    I have a block here for my next 355 build that has been backyarder clearanced, pretty rough job! Will definitely be double checking it like this and tidying it up somewhat!

  7. #22
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    Thanks TK for taking the time to write this up.

    What would you do if your block is already grout filled and its just hit the water jacket/grout? would this have to be repaired?

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