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  1. #1
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    Default Machining for screw in studs, guide plates, double springs & positive seals

    Been meaning to do this for a while, finally had my camera with a charged battery handy while I was doing a set of heads.

    This is back to basics, the nuts & bolts of performance machining, something that a lot of guys know how to do but most not in the trade will not have seen done.

    There are a few different ways to go about all this, this is just how I do it - guys with different machines will set up differently etc.

    Heads in question an VN iron heads, I'll be porting them next week, just getting all the basic machining done first.

    We'll start out with machining the guide tops for positive seals & machining them down a bit for retainer clearance, first up I set the head up in the seat & guide machine & set the quill up by sticking a pilot in a guide & another in the quill, then getting them parallel in both planes so the quill is on the exact same angle as the guides.
    Then stick a chuck in the quill & pop the guide top cutter in:



    Set the depth measured from the existing spring seat on the 1st one with the stop on the quill so they all get cut to the same height without having to stop & check each one, then run through them all:



    Next pop the spring seat pocket cutter in, this one is 1.5" OD, cut the 1st to cleanup, then set the stop to .010" deeper to ensure I get cleanup on the rest - factory seat heights vary quite a lot, up to .007-.008", so cutting .010" further down than the 1st one makes sure they all clean up at the same height.
    Run the cutter through the lot of them:





    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

  2. #2
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    Now on to the studs, first up I gotta get the quill lined up with the original bolt hole angle, I use a pilot jig I made up to align it:



    Now the quill is set up I screw a drill setup jig in (a bolt that's been centre drilled) so I can locate the drill in the right spot accurately, then lock up the air float head:



    Remove the setup guide & screw it into the next one in line, then run the drill down - I set the stop at .060" past the original hole bottom, deep enough for the stud but not through to water.
    Then run the drill through & repeat for each hole:



    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

  3. #3
    casual poster gates79's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting pics not in the trade but always interesting to see how and what goes into this kind of work,

  4. #4
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    Now cut the rocker bosses down .400" - the thickness of the nut on the stud + the guide plate:



    Lotsa swarf:





    Chamfer the holes:





    Now tap the threads - note I'm using a beat to shit old tap, they get knocked around power tapping threads so don't use a good tap for this bit, I run it down 4-5 threads to get the angle bang on & then finish it by hand with a good tap:



    All done:





    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

  5. #5
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    cool...

    another edumacational post by TK...top stuff
    __________________________________
    ONE OF THE Aussie V8 MODERATOR/ADMIN TEAM
    Never late in an AussieV8!
    Club circuit racing...the best fun you can have with your pants on

  6. #6
    Part of the furniture ajvx01's Avatar
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    Another one that makes me realise the difference between those like him and backyarders..

    Thanks for the insight!
    willing to do domestic/commercial electrical work for car parts/panel work.

  7. #7
    shovel built race engines onlimiter's Avatar
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    you relay it well tony,as it is!
    no.my killer pumps,lol!
    rev the chev kev!

  8. #8
    casual poster SICKHG's Avatar
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    Great post. I'd say you've done enough to know the angle of the turret off the top of your head without the pilots!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlimiter View Post
    you relay it well tony,as it is!
    no.my killer pumps,lol!
    I'm sorry you disapprove of my writing style
    perhaps you might enlighten us with some of your workmanship or show some innovations that you have come up with to extend the life of engines ,solve problems that they had before you came up with a solution to fix them or maybe done something to help people set Australian records and win numerous Australian championships

    please do share

    I'm all ears

    zok
    ONE STOP MOTORSPORT SHOP - engine building and development - tuning and complete fuel systems-- latest dyno dynamics dyno --click the link to see our facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zok-R...9505334?ref=hl

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK383 View Post
    There are a few different ways to go about all this, this is just how I do it - guys with different machines will set up differently etc.

    factory seat heights vary quite a lot, up to .007-.008", so cutting .010" further down than the 1st one makes sure they all clean up at the same height.
    Good post Tk,

    Here is the way we did my heads just to show other ways. You actually did the valve job on these for me ages ago lol!

    First screwed in two 5/16" studs



    Then run a probe along to get the hole centres exactly square on in the mill, then lock it down





    Then go along and take off in shallow cuts (so you get a nice finish) whats required on the stud boss (thickness of guide plate + stud hex)



    Then with an edge finder (didnt take a photo of but you know what i mean) get the hole centres then spacings from stud to stud set then just go along and drill out every hole (I think it was the 7th stud hole was actually out from the rest on both heads so had to find the centre again, the rest all had identical centres.



    Tap it chamfer it and done



    I ended up using a 99943 retainer instead with a comp 4777 ID Spring locator (0.060" thick) to get 1.800" installed height, left the locator out for now to back off spring pressure while i run in the cam.



    I found the retainers and collets would alter spring heights as they arent all exact the same so i mixed and matched them to get as consistent as possible, then number them all to each valve, all spring heights ended up within 1.800" to 1.805"



    Then yea done, same same different way


  11. #11
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    Yep, that'll work just fine.

    Way back in time I used to use a Sunnen VGS20 seat & guide machine at a shop I was working at - ace machine, you can do spring seats, guide tops, screw in studs, K-lines (or thinwalls) & cut seats all in the one setup coz it's got a 360 deg head fixture & continuously variable spindle speed. Brilliant machine - I'll buy one some time in the next couple of years. Until then my good ol RVR gets the job done just as accurately, it just takes longer & is more f*cking around.
    I'm not on here much any more - don't bother PM'ing me, chances are I won't read it, just call me on 08 8376 9540 if you need to get hold of me or email knight28@optusnet.com.au, phone is better!

  12. #12
    casual poster VK55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zok race carbs View Post
    I'm sorry you disapprove of my writing style
    perhaps you might enlighten us with some of your workmanship or show some innovations that you have come up with to extend the life of engines ,solve problems that they had before you came up with a solution to fix them or maybe done something to help people set Australian records and win numerous Australian championships

    please do share

    I'm all ears

    zok
    like.

    BTW - great thread, its one thing to hear about this sort of stuff being done, but next level to see it done and the result.

    Hats off to you, pete, Zok etc that take time out of their busy schedules for threads like this.

  13. #13
    Part of the furniture Tim304's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlimiter View Post
    you relay it well tony,as it is!
    no.my killer pumps,lol!
    Seems a bit harsh!!!

  14. #14
    Part of the furniture Tim304's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zok race carbs View Post
    I'm sorry you disapprove of my writing style
    perhaps you might enlighten us with some of your workmanship or show some innovations that you have come up with to extend the life of engines ,solve problems that they had before you came up with a solution to fix them or maybe done something to help people set Australian records and win numerous Australian championships

    please do share

    I'm all ears

    zok
    Keep it up Zoran, I love reading yours, Petes and tks write ups and builds... Theres always one in the crowd but on this forum I think there maybe more than one...

  15. #15
    Part of the furniture phtwgn's Avatar
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    Default

    Sorry to bring this thread up again but TK383 who's guide plates do you rather using ?
    CROW
    CRANE
    YELLA TERRA
    BRASS INSERT
    PLASTIC INSERT
    OR JUST PLANE STEEL ON PUSHROD TYPE

    I'm looking for a set for HQ heads
    Want to know your thoughts. ???
    Thanks in advance
    Paul

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