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  1. #1
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    Default 450+ HP 355 street engine - a basic recipie.

    This topic comes up every few weeks, the guy asking often wonders why they don't get many responses - the answer is simple, guys get sick of answering the same questions over & over.

    So here it is, this is the motor I would recommend for a guy walking in off the street wanting a street engine that runs happily on pump 98, has good traffic manners, great throttle response & part throttle drivability, will work with street happy stall converters (3000-4000rpm) & streetable diff gears (3.5-3.9).
    It's not a daily driver type engine - but could be dailied if the need arose, more of a weekend warrior engine that can cut quick times on the 1/4 or go cruising on a sat night.

    I'll start with a parts list, when I have more time I'll add machining required etc

    There will be people who do not agree with everything in this combo - so take it as an opinion of what will make up a tough street engine, parts specced are well up to the job, you could spend more but you don't have to:

    Parts list (CBF'd looking up part numbers - maybe someone with more spare time than me could do it?):

    Internals:
    Any block will do, just needs to be able to be bored to .030" (so stock bore or .020" with little wear) & sonic test ok
    VN iron heads
    Scat 9000 series cast crank with chev journals
    Scat 'pro-comp' 6" large journal I-beam rods
    SRP flat top pistons (will have chev valve reliefs) with JE pro-seal rings
    ACL race series rod & main bearings
    ACL race series .002" undersize cam bearings
    Powerbond 'street steel' harmonic balancer
    Pioneer/Scat flexplate
    ARP main studs
    Rollmaster 'red' timing kit (9 keyway) with IWIS chain
    ASR/High energy pro street sump with pickup
    Camtech 248/252 solid flat tappet cam + spring, retainer & lock kit (camtech can supply a kit to suit the cam, for the average guy buying their own parts it's the easiest way to be sure you're getting the right stuff)
    Camtech 'cool face' lifters
    Crow/Crane whatever cro-mo pushrods
    YT 'street terra' bolt on adjustable roller rockers
    Durapro gasket set with graphite head gaskets (other alternative is ACL race) - an option is to use fel-pro race head gaskets, better than the durapro or ACL gaskets, but not really required
    Ferrea '6000 series' 2.02 & 1.6" valves - I'll find part nu later, there is some chev valves for an aftermarket chev head that are the right length for a holden

    Externals:
    TP high rise dual plane intake
    750HP holley carb
    Crane/MSD dissy, black box & coil
    1 3/4" primary headers - Tri-Y or 4-1, whichever you can get for the car
    Twin 2.5" or single 3" exhaust

    Little shit:
    Oil pump rebuild kit (& a stock alloy pump to put it in)
    Welsh plug kit
    Genuine holden cam plug & oil gallery plugs (the aftermarket ones are shit & the genuine stuff is pretty cheap)
    Oil pump drive kit (premier engine parts do a nice kit with new shaft, gear, pin & bush)

    Back with bottom end machining required later.

  2. #2
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    Default

    this needs stickied and locked

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemifan View Post
    this needs stickied and locked
    X 2 best thread of the year

  4. #4
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    Default

    Block machining:

    Hot tank
    Clean out all threads with thread chaser tap, clean up gasket surfaces, welsh plug holes, gallery plug holes etc
    Light hone lifter bores (just to get any crap/dags off)
    Line hone to mid/bottom size (with ARP studs fitted!)
    Torque plate bore & hone - with mains torqued up as well as deck plate
    Dummy assemble to check deck height & clearance block for stroker
    Mill for zero deck

    Grind out casting dags in oil drainbacks, grind oil drainbacks from heads in the valley using head gasket as template
    Remove oil pump drive bush & replace

    Torque up mains & rods with bearings & check bearing clearance - ACL does +.001" & -.001" bearings to tweak the clearances if needed - you can use, for example, a 1/2 a set of +.001" & a 1/2 a set of std to get an extra .0005" clearance.
    Full balance, rod BE's & SE's all the same weight, rod overall weights the same, piston weights the same. Crank balanced as a bare crank, then balancer & flexplate added & rebalanced to be sure each component is balanced correctly.

    Headwork next, then all the little bits & assembly.

  5. #5
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    Default

    i dnt wnt to rub u up the wrong way but why dnt u add a segment for the people who wnt to accept the early heads challange. some people like bolting wat eva makes gud power to an engine n goin yeah... others like to take an engine and build the best monster out of its oem structure... my brotherinlaws bff has a xw fairmont with a 302 windsor block and heads that pushes 518 hps and 2200nm torque
    Build is aimed at the guy that wants a good bang for buck street engine but doesn't have enough knowledge to port heads etc - an enthusiast, not a pro.

    Early head challenge is great, but for the average guy will cost significantly more than a VN head engine that can do the same job - not to mention the minefield of finding someone who can do a set of early heads properly to support a 355.

  6. #6
    Part of the furniture mid11s's Avatar
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    Tk do u think the 244-248 would be a better street cam with small stall and 3.5's ?

  7. #7
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    Head machining:

    Hot tank & bead blast
    Crack test (cracks between intake & ex seats are common on high milage & LPG engines)
    K-line guides as required (usually just exhausts unless the heads have done a lot of K's)
    Machine guide tops for positive seals
    Machine spring seats for double springs

    Valve seats cut to equal height, seat specs:

    Intake seats:
    Cut to about .010" from edge of valve
    15-20 deg chamber relief cut - cutter with radius on the nose.
    30 deg top cut, about 1.5mm wide
    45 degree seat, 1mm wide
    60 degree bottom cut, meeting a 75 deg throat cut at 87% of valve diameter

    Exhaust seats:
    15-20 deg chamber cut with radius on nose
    30 deg top cut, 1.5mm wide
    45 deg seat, 1mm wide
    Radius cut into bowl

    Porting required:
    Intake: a good pocket port with window widened around 3mm & roof raised through the window around 2mm, knock the lumps off the port entry & clean up any casting dags.
    Exhaust: pocket port with guide boss slimmed & runner cleaned up.
    Chamber: just blend in the top cuts & knock any sharp edges/lumps off

    Radius the oil drainback holes in the top of the heads & radius the pushrod holes (can assist drainback).

    CC chambers & mill for 11:1 comp

    Clean & assemble:
    Check spring installed heights & shim as requried
    Grind valve tips to equal height (within .005")
    Assemble with either Viton or Teflon positive stem seals

  8. #8
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    Tk do u think the 244-248 would be a better street cam with small stall and 3.5's ?
    Debatable - I was getting to that!

    244/248 would be better with, say, 3000rpm converter & 3.5 gears, with a 3500-4000 converter & 3.7 or 3.9 gears the 248/252 would be the pick.

  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Clearances:

    Piston to bore - .0005" more than SRP list as min clearance for an NA street engine
    Mains - .0023-.0028"
    Rods - .002-.0025"
    Thrust - .008-.013"

    Ring gaps
    Top - .019-.021"
    Sec - .002" more than top ring

    Gonna have to do the rest tomorow.
    Last edited by TK383; 09-05-2011 at 04:23 PM.

  11. #11
    Part of the furniture Todd's Avatar
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    i appologise to everyone i didnt mean to start an arguement... all i was looking for was advice on my build specs and posetive advice for EARLY cast heads.
    growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd View Post
    i appologise to everyone i didnt mean to start an arguement... all i was looking for was advice on my build specs and posetive advice for EARLY cast heads.
    Please start a seperate thread, we'll try to keep this one neat.

  13. #13
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    Default

    I'll cut & paste everything relevant back into the first post when I'm all done running through it all, may take another day or 2, pretty busy.

    Edit - cut & pasted some now.

    Edit again - Beeb's too damn fast for me.

  14. #14
    Part of the furniture Todd's Avatar
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    i promise to play nice
    growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

  15. #15
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    Mate, you haven't offended anyone!

    It's just your posts are a little hard to read (or slightly more than a little), try some punctuation, get close on the spelling, skip the SMS talk etc & you'll be fine.

    PS - I like early heads, but you do need to know you're unneccesarily hamstringing yourself using them!

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