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  1. #31
    casual poster th0r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemifan View Post
    this needs stickied and locked
    Quote Originally Posted by ffsuc View Post
    X 2 best thread of the year
    x3

    When is TK ever going to run out of his seemingly endless mine of useful sh1t?
    Quote Originally Posted by DreamStalker View Post
    i dont speak american very well .

  2. #32
    Senior Member JCY 74's Avatar
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    So just to be clear... your quoted rod clearance of 0.002"- 0.0025" is that total or is that more than 0.0xx"?

    Sorry to be picky about it just want to make sure I understand fully what the numbers mean

  3. #33
    Part of the furniture SilverVH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCY 74 View Post
    So just to be clear... your quoted rod clearance of 0.002"- 0.0025" is that total or is that more than 0.0xx"?

    Sorry to be picky about it just want to make sure I understand fully what the numbers mean
    That will be total. Anything more than 0.003" in a street engine and you will probably start running into dramas later in its engine life.

    Also, to the novice builders out there that are keen on having a go at assembling your own engine, it is ESSENTIAL you check and triple check your clearances. This is where a lot of people stuff it up and wonder why. So much as .001" out in a clearance (be it to tight or to loose) can result in disaster, so it pays to double check always. Never rely on your machinest to get it right.

    Use plastigauge to determine clearances.
    Double check tension settings on fastners.
    If in doubt or unsure about something, ask!

    Also, as dated as the information is in this book, it is very handy to have around and has all your specifications listed in it, so I recommend if it is your first time building an Holden V8, you buy this book and use it as a general reference should you get stuck in any way.

  4. #34
    Do you ever leave? immortality's Avatar
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    Great work TK. nice to have someone who is willing to shares years worth of knowledge and experience.

  5. #35
    casual poster 180sc's Avatar
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    A good read tk well done. leaves me wondering what if anything would be different doing it as efi and what manifold and throttle body would you use.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 180sc View Post
    A good read tk well done. leaves me wondering what if anything would be different doing it as efi and what manifold and throttle body would you use.
    x2

  7. #37
    Do you ever leave? immortality's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 180sc View Post
    A good read tk well done. leaves me wondering what if anything would be different doing it as efi and what manifold and throttle body would you use.
    stil use the same TP dual plane high rise, just get it with the injector bosses drilled and use a 1000cfm 4bbl throttle body

  8. #38
    Senior Member MCEcomp's Avatar
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    You couldnt get a more complete detailed accurated engine build list guys....

    Also if you wanted to just use a shelf cam the little famous Crane F-280 would achieve these goals
    Superflow 902 Dyno service CALL 0425717668

    3370lb HG prem 9.72@138.4
    390 chev N/A 23deg heads

  9. #39
    Do you ever leave? Mickss355's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCEcomp View Post
    You couldnt get a more complete detailed accurated engine build list guys....

    Also if you wanted to just use a shelf cam the little famous Crane F-280 would achieve these goals
    Agreed - i've used it and had good results.

  10. #40
    Love my v8's tonn/a355's Avatar
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    Wot roller rockers would u use on a high hp 355 up 500hp+ shaft mounted? Sorry if u have discussed already

  11. #41
    Do you ever leave? Mickss355's Avatar
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    Any good quality rocker - Yella Terra/Crane billet rollers are fine.
    It's more so the spring tension and agressivness of the cam lobes that will deturmain how strong the rockers studs and pushrods need to be.
    I have a preference for 7/16 studs and guide plates.
    Even though shaft mounted rockers share the load across 2 x 5/16 cap screws I still think the 7/16 stud set up is alot stronger !
    Last edited by Mickss355; 10-05-2011 at 04:39 PM.

  12. #42
    Love my v8's tonn/a355's Avatar
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    Thanks mickss355

  13. #43
    Do you ever leave? immortality's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickss355 View Post
    I have a preference for 7/16 studs and guide plates.
    Even though shaft mounted rockers share the load across 2 x 5/16 cap screws I still think the 7/16 stud set up is alot stronger !
    now there is a good topic for debate (in another thread of course)

  14. #44
    Love my v8's tonn/a355's Avatar
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    I'll be watching for a thread on that

  15. #45
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    Ok, where was I, cleaning & assembly I think:

    Cleaning:

    All parts washed individually to spotless clean, not pretty clean, I mean farking spotless, if there is anything left anywhere then wash it again & again if need be.
    All oil galleries get brushed out with thinners & gallery brushes (thinners is great for getting off oil 'varnish' - that brown staining), then brushed again with partwash solvent, then everything run over with partwash solvent & a stiff brush, then washed real well with soapy water (to get the parts wash solvent off), blasted off with clean water & blown dry with compressed air.
    Bores get brushed out with detergent & water - I use a bore brush in a low speed air drill.
    When the block is all clean & dry get a clean white rag & some CRC - wipe the bores down, if the rag comes out grey wash em again.
    Once you get it to the point that you can wipe the rags with a white CRC'd rag & it comes out clean then they're clean, leave the CRC on the bores to stop surface rust (yellow staining) - a little staining is normal after washing & wipes of with the CRC'd rag.

    Remember to brush out the oil galleries in the crank - anything left in there will go straight into the bearings!

    Thinners & compressed air is great for cleaning pistons, bearings, pushrods etc etc - I just use 'gun cleaner' thinners, cheap stuff.

    Once she's clean & all the parts are layed out it's time to fit the cam bearings (get a pro to do this - you need a special tool), after fitting the cam bearings give all the galleries a good blast out with compressed air.
    Next fit cam plug & welsh plugs with a smear of grey silicon on them.
    Next is oil gallery plugs, again with a smear of silicon - after they are fitted stake them in so they can't move, just use either a blunt centre punch or a cold chisel ground to a rounded edge & stake a couple of times around the metal around the plug.

    Now pop the block up on the engine stand - it's time for assembly.

    First up is gapping the rings - a job for a pro for the most part, steel top rings are a bitch to gap if you don't have a diamond faced gapping wheel or diamond faced mini file.
    Gap each ring set to the bore it's going to run in, check the gaps at least 2" down into the bore so you don't get a false reading from the distortion in the top of the bore from torque plate honing (distortion tures up when the heads get torqued down).
    Once the gaps are right & the ring ends square deburr the edges of the gap with a fine file or whetstone - don't take any metal off, just get rid of the burr & sharp edge.

    After gapping the rings wipe the bores down again with a clean rag & CRC.

    Keep the rings layed out in order.

    Now fit the pistons to the rods - spiralocks are a bitch for the beginner, maybe get a pro to do it! - if you've never done it & won't be doing it often it's not worth the bleeding fingers & scratched pitons from trying it yourself.
    Pin bores in both pistons & rods should be given a coat of lube - this is somewhere where a good lube is vital, I use the torco MPZ stuff - don't use just oil!

    Pistons can be fitted to rods before gapping rings, but then gapping the rings can get messy with the assembly lube on the pins getting everywhere.

    Once the pistons are on the rods fit the rings carefully.

    Next is cam, it's easier to slide it in without damaging the bearings if you do it first & just let it sit in there while you do the rest.
    Lube it up real good - I use Torco MPZ cam lube for the lobes, but the moly lube that comes with the cam works ok too, journasl get a liberal dose of assembly lube as well - again, I use the torco MPZ assembly lube, but there are plenty of others that work well too.
    Next fit the oil pump drive shaft & gear, then the cam thrust plate - should have mentioned earlier, the cam thrust plate bolt has a small oil hole in it, it's there to bleed air out of the galleries quickly so the stock hyd lifters don't rattle too long on startup, with a solid cam a it should be blocked, a small spot of weld does the job.
    Loctite the cam bolt & do it up to about 60 ft/lbs.
    Once you've got the oil pump drive & cam plate on give the whole lot a dose of lube & wind it over a few times to spread it over the gears.

    Rotating assembly is next.
    Last edited by TK383; 11-05-2011 at 11:15 AM.

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