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  1. #16
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    cheers for the sticky beeb, all i need now is to do i become a holden fan and get a 1tunna and 355 stroker
    (I love my valis)

  2. #17
    Senior Member JCY 74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK383 View Post
    Clearances:

    Piston to bore - .0005" more than SRP list as min clearance for an NA street engine
    Mains - .0023-.0028"
    Rods - .002-.0025"
    Thrust - .008-.013"

    Ring gaps
    Top - .019-.021"
    Sec - .002" more than top ring

    Gonna have to do the rest tomorow.
    Just thought I'd ask TK are a couple of those clearances typo's or do really go to half a thou (piston to bore), or do you mean 5 thou as in 0.005"?

  3. #18
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    Nah - read it again, 1/2 a thou more than the min clearance listed in the piston literature supplied with the pistons.

    So, say they list .002" as min clearance for an NA engine using the pistons, then you'd go for .0025" clearance - an extra 1/2 a thou just for safe measure & to allow for the motor getting a bit warm or other misshaps that can befall a street engine. Call it insurance against a sieze.

  4. #19
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    TK can some guys that already have 1 5/8 pipes use them as 1 5/8 can support 500hp, also tk will it need lash caps ? and why grind valve tips if u do that then the seats must be all over the shop or is this a very low budget example ?

  5. #20
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    $$$???
    If you want more inches, STROKE IT!

  6. #21
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    1 5/8 is fine for 450-500hp - but if you're using Tri-Y's the 1 3/4 are better.
    This setup would be in the crossover between the 2 pipe sizes - either will get the job done really.

    Grinding the valve tips is just to equalise the tip heights between intake & exhaust, all the exhausts should be pretty close to the same height, same for intake, but there will probably be a variation between the in & ex - you want them dead even for consistant rocker geometry.

  7. #22
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    ok cheers

  8. #23
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    $$$???
    Dunno, haven't worked it out & prolly won't bother!
    A lot of guys would put it together themselves, some would do some of the simpler things like the stroker clearancing & thread cleaning.

    This is more of a guide for someone to refer to rather than a set in concrete build, it's based on the KISS principle - nothing fancy, just a selection of off the shelf parts that most people can buy that I know works well together & will produce a fairly consistant outcome.

  9. #24
    Love my v8's tonn/a355's Avatar
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    I like this thread it's good to see someone explaining it all, I'm getting a 355 built by a professional just so I don't stuff up building it just a lil insurance on my behalf. Y don't guys just get it built by someone it's easier?

  10. #25
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    Ah cool!
    If you want more inches, STROKE IT!

  11. #26
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    I like this thread it's good to see someone explaining it all, I'm getting a 355 built by a professional just so I don't stuff up building it just a lil insurance on my behalf. Y don't guys just get it built by someone it's easier?
    Lots of guys like to say "I built it" - which I can understand.
    Plenty of guys would like to save a few bucks as well - doing what you can at home & just paying for the parts & required machining could save up to $2k on a build like this, which can make the difference in the "can I afford it" internal debate.
    Just gotta weigh up if your skill are good enough to be worth taking the risk on - if you've got 10 thumbs & don't know which end of a screwdriver to hang on to, then maybe it's best to let the pros do the whole job!

  12. #27
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    with this info also allows you to slap in on a table of a builder and say this is what i want no arguements
    it cuts the bs

  13. #28
    Love my v8's tonn/a355's Avatar
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    That is true it maybe good to say I built it but wen it goes bang wen they forgot to do something, that's why there is pros out there like u guys that know all the secrets in building strong tuff engines. I'd rather save a lil longer and get it built properly!

  14. #29
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    nice work TK, thank you, good to see all this as a proven combo, it takes away some of the uncertainty us novices often have

  15. #30
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    This is a great thread mate. Nice work. Gives me something to go off of as a guideline. I know someone already mentioned it but would be great if you could put a rough $$ to it. Newbs like me go - I want that. How much is it going to cost me?
    Was thinkin of settin it up with EFI and a manual so if you have any ideas on what you would run with it I would appreciate it. Lookin at have a diff around 3.5 and would like a 4 or 5 spd so I can get some km's out on the highway but still have some poke off the mark.
    I'll be gettin someone to build it 4 me as I'm not that handy and the extra $ will be worth it

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