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  1. #1
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    Default Prepping a holden oil pump for performance use

    For those that are into the old holden V8's I thought I'd show you how to prep an oil pump properly to turn a bit of a turd into a good thing.


    Didn't bother with taking before pics, I reckon the after pics are plenty to work from.

    Anyways, first up you gotta find a good housing, you want one that hasn't got too many scores around the outside of where the gears run or on the top & bottom faces of the gear area. They will all have some scores - they are old pumps, but so long as they are minor they'll be fine.

    You'll also need an oil pump rebuild kit, which are still readily available (premier engine parts make them), a 3/4" welsh plug & a spring shim, kit includes new gears, new press in shaft, new relief valve & spring & gaskets.

    Strip the pump, use a punch to knock out the old pressed in gear shaft & the oil bypass valve, remove the old relief valve & spring, unscrew the oil filter screw fitting (multigrips) & once the housing & top cover are back to bare castings clean em real good (I bead blast them).

    Now they are clean it's time to start the mods, starting with the pump body.

    Red arrows point to the sections I'm talking about.

    The section on the out side of the pump housing next to where the bypass valve was gets layed back & blended in to ease the flow from the gears into the cover, the oil gallery off to the side gets opened up to slightly larger than the matching gallery in the cover - stock they have a large step in the wrong spot that impedes flow:



    Next I turn the pump body over & radius the oil gallery at the top of the picture, they have a sharp edge here from the factory & that is the pressure feed to the block.
    While I'm there there is a section (lower arrow) of pump that partially covers the pickup gallery that feeds the pump, if you stick the bare pump body on the block you can see it, grind that shit to a straight edge rather than the bump & blend it in:



    Now the top cover, the arrow is pointing to the feed from the gears up to the filter, it's a sharp edge usually, radius it real good:



    Next is the areas that feed to & from the oil filter, the one on the right is the feed to the filter, it's a prick to get into, but you have to take off all the sharp edges & radius them, as well as laying back where it feeds into the groove - use a small oval or round cutter to get in there.
    The feed back to the pump body from the filter is in the middle, this is where the filter threaded adaptor screws in, right down the bottom there is the drilling back to the pump body, it's sharp edges with a nasty turn, lay the turn back up into the threads a bit & knock off the sharp edges etc:



    Next you get out the emery paper, CRC & flat surface & lap the gasket faces flat - I use 100 grit paper. They are usually quite a long way out so it can take a little while to get them flat.
    Then out with a small piece of 120 grit & break the sharp edges in the gear area as well as giving the areas around the gears a light sand to knock off any high spots from scoring etc.

    Now everything gets a real good wash & blow off with compressed air to make sure there is no metal dust left anywhere.

    Lay out everything on a bench & hold the pump body in a vice (not too tight) so you can knock in the new shaft, a bit of moly lube stops it galling when you hammer it in with a punch, it goes in untill the shaft is about 1mm below the face on the other side.
    Next is a 3/4" welsh plug to block where the bypass valve used to be, knocked in with a bit of sealant - the bypass valve is there so that when ****s don't change the oil for 100,000k's & the filter blocks up the engine still gets oil through the filter bypass. It is not required unless you intend to let your filter block up.
    Then the gears go in, coated liberally in moly lube so the pump primes up quickly:



    The gasket that goes between the body & top cover will need a little trim around the gallery where it was opened up, yes I sneezed when I was cutting it:



    Now bolt the top cover on, I use permatex sealant as it does not squeeze out & block shit like silicon.

    Next the relief valve gets fitted, along with a shim (which the arrow is pointing too), in this case the shim is .100" thick which will give 65-70spi oil pressure. I spin them up on the lathe out of alloy.
    Lube the relief valve with some moly lube & push it in (should be smooth all the way down to the seat), the shim goes in the retaining screw/cap thingy, the threads & fibre washer get a smear of silicon, they have a habit of weeping with no sealant:



    Last thing to do is trim the block to pump gasket to match where the body was ground:



    Bingo, all done:





    A pump prepped like this will outperform any aftermarket pump without overloading the pump drive like a hi-vol pump will.
    Last edited by TK383; 26-08-2010 at 06:09 PM.

  2. #2
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    thanks for the info top stuff

  3. #3
    Part of the furniture JoeVK's Avatar
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    rated excellent!

  4. #4
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    nice write up
    but I see you dont check the gear height to the body (with gasket)?
    and I prefer Permatex on the pressurelief valve cap (to Silicon)

    other than that........you just broadcast a shit load of my rebuild secrets
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  5. #5
    casual poster Karl_HQ's Avatar
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    TK... go to the top of the class....

  6. #6
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    Awesome tk. Just a question. I have a new jp cast iron standard volume pump which will be fitted to my soon to be assembled 308. Would you recommend stripping the pump to be modified before assembly?

  7. #7
    254RWHP boat anchor EVL253's Avatar
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    well you gotta pull it apart to pack it with moly lube or vaso to get oil pressure so might as well.

    should make this a sticky thread along with the mains priority one
    11 second E85 bottle fed boat anchor

  8. #8
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    Awsome write up. I found one more mod that can be done to the std pump is to run a bigger dia external pick up if
    practicable. It should be mention that blocking off the filter by pass should be done with caution. I found when the oil is cold and thick the the oil filter collapes if the engine is revved. The way to get around this is to not rev it until at least 60 degrees or run a Big oil filter, I did the latter. Just what i have found

  9. #9
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    Well done
    On the next one you can cut the gears down and dimple the ends.
    Put a nice sticker on it and make a motza.

  10. #10
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    but I see you dont check the gear height to the body (with gasket)?
    and I prefer Permatex on the pressurelief valve cap (to Silicon)
    Did check, forgot to include that bit - gears should be level with the top of the main body, at most .002" above but not below, the gasket gives the clearance & the pump body being alloy expands when warm & give a bit more.
    I've used permatex on the relief valve cap, I just prefer the grey silicon as it will not leak ever.

    Another mod you can do is adjustable oil pressure - you drill & tap the end of the cap for a UNF bolt & nut so that spring preload can be adjusted without removing the cap.

    Awsome write up. I found one more mod that can be done to the std pump is to run a bigger dia external pick up if
    practicable. It should be mention that blocking off the filter by pass should be done with caution. I found when the oil is cold and thick the the oil filter collapes if the engine is revved. The way to get around this is to not rev it until at least 60 degrees or run a Big oil filter, I did the latter. Just what i have found
    Yep, I'll post up a big how to thread for priority mains oiling as well as external pickup in a week or two as part of a circuit race holden engine build.

    Good point on the exploding oil filter thing, that can happen with thicker oils! - I usually set motors up to run 10/40 oil or even thinner, so it is not generally a problem & you shouldn't be giving it the beans before the oil is warm anyway!

  11. #11
    YES, IT VIBRATES!!!! VIBR8R's Avatar
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    Thanks a million for the info TK, I am about to give my pump a rebuild and will be making these changes for sure.

    There are three things I'd like cleared up if possible:
    1: If the shim is thinner this will equal less oil pressure?
    2: When Smitty mentions the gear height to the body, this is a straight edge laid across the top. What clearances am I looking for, gears flush with body???
    DRINKING DOESN'T CAUSE HANGOVERS, WAKING UP DOES!!!!

  12. #12
    Part of the furniture phtwgn's Avatar
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    TK...


    I see that you used the thick black gasket between the two parts of the housing!

    Myself years ago i had a vh 253 was worried about oil pressure in the old girl so i put a new standard volume oil pump on it. as you do just to make sure its getting oil around the system.

    Anyways i started it up got oil pressure warmed it up.....WHAT THE? 20psi less oil pressure when hot than the old worn out pump???????????????

    pulled it apart again looked at it found that thick black gasket between the two housings and chatter marks under both gears in the pump from the gears moving up and down in the housing! with only maybe an half hour of running!

    Re lubed it all up ,chased down an original type very thin (red in colour ) thin paper gasket to go inbetween the two housings.

    bolted it back together onto the engine

    Restarted the engine again, bang oil pressure up, warmed up to full operating temp........ Found the missing 20PSI...Just in a gasket! without even touching the pressure releif valve.


    have you seen this before?

    I put it down to the gasket being to thick ,making the clearance between the gears and housing to big and not pumping proper pressureand allowing the gears to chatter!


    sound viable TK383?

  13. #13
    Senior Member 10secHG's Avatar
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    Default Oil pump mods

    Many thanks for this thread, im sure my 355 will love you for it....lol

  14. #14
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    I see that you used the thick black gasket between the two parts of the housing!
    Nah, it's the regular thickness gasket that comes with the rebuild kit - I didn't even know you could get a thicker one!

  15. #15
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    good thread, great reading but.. holden v8 oil return needs to be looked at too, lets face it, those little holes in the head for oil to drain back are restrictive to say the least,
    if a little knowledge is a dangerous thing then I have enough to seriously hurt myself

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