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  1. #16
    Newbie Ninety3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nos-304 View Post
    maybe one of you would like to suggest how you would go about testing a hall effect sensor
    I would like it if you could pls. The furthest I got at Holden was PD, so I have respect for the HSV techs. Just checked the IGN MOD and the coil and both are fine. Next step is the *hall effect* sensor I think...?

  2. #17
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    Red face Construction, remember manufacturing

    Quote Originally Posted by nos-304 View Post
    ahhh so your a holden tech u poor bastard
    unfourtunately when u are a hsv tech u spend to much time dealing with
    wanker customers to worry about the tech guild
    the tech guild questions answers are all in the handouts anyway and we all know how "closed book"the tests r really make no mistake about it i read every piece of information holden gave me and heckled gm school for more
    and i was a tas nominated contact
    but i only ever worked on hsvs so how to fix the boot lock on a tk barina was irrelevent to me i spent months doing gen 3 rattlers and oilburners gearbox noise from hsv knobs thinking there was something wrong with a perfectly good car <there was the odd bad one>
    broken valve springs on c4bs
    ve hsv shocker washers
    siab springs <side impact airbag>
    the list goes on
    then come home and do 4hrs a night on my own car
    dont get me wrong i loved my job i looked forward to it
    i got to drive sum fantastic cars
    getting all the hsv steering wheel and seat covers that come on the new cars
    but unfourtunately the money will never cut it
    on top of unqualified people in charge
    fuking ridiculous warranty times
    and the productivity bull shit
    fuk that im in construction now
    if u dont count the massive wage increase
    heres what extras construction tradies get ova my mechanic brothers
    travelling .5 hr a day
    fares .8 hrs day
    site allowance $2 hr
    redundency $54 a week
    income protection
    36 hr week
    work 40 hrs get two rdos a month no notice required
    every public holiday has at least 1 rdo after it
    37 degrees go home get paid 35 degrees dont work in sun at all
    dont work in the rain
    full set uniform every year
    2pairs off boots a year
    and my new job is much simpler the building isnt finished for 6 months
    vs that car has to go out tonight but we got the wrong part or the car got in l8 so wee need you to finish it
    fuk that u wimps need to grow some balls and form a union
    like i told every one i worked with hell i even get free ambulance cover from my union
    free lawyer
    union shopper
    cheap home loans <members equity bank>
    the list goes on
    an adult apprentice mechanical <no sewerage>plumber is on more than
    a qualified mechanic plus all those extras
    so go do your tech guild m8 im well in to my 2nd apprenticeship
    and the ebas yearly wage for a mech plumber in 2012 is $72000 for 36 hrs i dont no were you live but aint no tech in no dealer in adelaide on any where near that or ever will be till they forma union which they wont
    so now i have more time to play with my toys and more money to spend on em im still qualified hold a refrigeration license and am doing cert 4 in high performance out of interest and i still have acces to a tech 2 tis and a hardware key think about that at work tomorrow

    HI WITH THE WAGES AND BENEFITS YOU GET DO YOU REALLY THINK YOU EARN THEM. MANUFACTURING WORKERS WANTED BETTER PAY AND CONDITIONS AND THE UNION WAS MORE THAN HAPPY TO HELP. NOW NOW HOLDEN FORD TOYOTA ON AND ON, ALL FROM GREED, YOU CAN ONLY FILL YOU FUEL TANK TO ITS LIMIT IT IS NOT ENDLESS, THE COST OF PROPERTY IS ALREADY BEYOND MOST PEOPLE, SO IF WE PAY YOU SO MUCH FOR LABOUR TRADIES THE BUILDING WILL DIE LIKE MANUFACTURING, DONT OVER EAT YOU WILL GET A GUTT ACHE, GRANNY WAS WRITE. THANKS

  3. #18
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    Maryborough Vic
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    IF ALL AUTO WORKERS GO WORK IN BUILDING WHO WILL FIX THERE VEHICLES TO GET TO THE SITES, ALL PEOPLE ARE EQUAL,

  4. #19
    Senior Member TonnerGuy's Avatar
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    Yes your quite right one can spend years getting qualified in a technical trade and only earn peanuts, yet as you say can work as a labourer in union construction and get paid heaps, OK the work does not require the grey matter to do much, and one can get sent to sites kilometres away, but at the end of the day it sure pays well.

  5. #20
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    the building will not go on forever, everything has an end date and expires, if techs charged the customer what the customer earns, would you pay the tech the same rate you get paid, if tech dont fix your brakes correctly ? good luck, life is to be enjoyed ONLY MUGS GO TO WORK, DO WHAT YOU LOVE AND YOU MIGHT ENJOY THE SHORT LIFE THAT WE HAVE.

  6. #21
    casual poster motodevo's Avatar
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    Mmm, great way to dredge up a 7 year old thread buddy, really helpful
    mmmmm green.... green's nice

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by nemo View Post
    did you try aero start we use it in the work shop on non going EFI car it makes it quicker to diagnos what system is at fault.It will eliminate one side of the systems so we dont waste time check things we dont need to.If the check engine light is not on you can rule out any sensors as a fault with one of them will bring that on if the globe in the light isnt blown or removed, I have seen these removed by people selling there car to hide a fault if this is a new car to him it would pay to see if the globe is there.
    You will still need to check injector pulse with noid light or the like. I believe PCM is injector driver.

    So you can have a perfectly fuctioning fuel system but no pulse which will be a problem that is not related to fuel system, but PCM.

    Ha... old thread. I'm sure he has it sorted by now
    Last edited by narva*2010; 09-03-2017 at 02:24 PM.

  8. #23
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    Hi Iím new I seem to be having this problem with my v8 is this problem the Hall sensor or not
    Before I go stuffing around with everything thing else. Iíve changed the fuel pump coil and ignition module
    Like everyone says runs fine when cold soon as it warms up just dies then about 20 minutes later starts fine and sometimes the temperature chimes come one but itís not over heating at all and when that comes on the fuel gauge will drop to empty

  9. #24
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    Mine does the same thing from time to time, I think mine may be earth issues as my wiring has corroded.

    It'll stall then a few turns of the key does nothing.

    Then will randomly fire and take a while to start.

    Speedo also moves up and down while trying to start.

  10. #25
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    My VR caprice used to do similar things found out it was the plug on the ignition module on the guard, bolt wouldnít pull the plug up hard enough, I just threw a zip tie around it and cranked it up tight never had a problem after that, thatís after I swapped the module out, a new dissy In it and a fuel Pump. Would stall at traffic lights then wouldnít restart

  11. #26
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    I got a stall today going down a hill at about 60km/h and it barely started up again, its fine when its cold but when its warm after driving about 50km, it barely starts, its like the battery is flat but only when the car is warm, it barely spun over, all the power windows real slow going up and down, replaced the alternator and starter motor recently with new ones.

    But when it sits and goes cold, turns over quick as, warm and its barely barely turning over and all the lights go dim.

    Doesn't seem to charge below 1500 RPM either, got some funky electrical issues going on.

  12. #27
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    Check the wire at the negative terminal at the coil. ( Brown on
    the VR). My VR SS would do the
    same thing. Engine would cut out
    on the road and not start. Wait 20mins then start OK. Replaced ign module, coil etc. and no fix.
    Then found the crimped connector
    on the brown wire to the coil was corroded. Replaced the connector
    ( soldered ) and no problem since.

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