Thread: UPDATE - Toyota Supra W57 Gearbox

UPDATE - Dust cover is off and after inspecting and clean up the slight oil film build up over the past 30+ yrs from underneath the bellhousing, I had noticed that there is a hair line crack in the release fork (when the wife pushes her foot on the clutch, at the end of the travel is starts to slightly open up)

I have a spare release fork and a spare clutch cable now.

The clutch pedal I will be still taking out to renew the bushes, etc.

Since the gearbox needs to come out to renew the release fork, I might as well put a new thrust bearing and spigot bearing ?

NOTE, that when I reach up and free spin the thrust bearing, its quiet...no bearing now.

As my gearbox is a Toyota Supra W57 5 speed, I know its a fine spline so assuming its would then be with a Toyota Supra (Greedy/Exedy) pressure plate and friction plate ?

This is what mine looks like, if anyone can let me know what pressures plate looks to be ?

https://s33.postimg.cc/spfxq4i9r/pur...ure_plate1.jpg

https://s33.postimg.cc/3w6dpkmfj/pur...ure_plate2.jpg

Cheers,

Call Sunbury brake and clutch. I got a kit from them a few years ago that was fantastic. It will use a Holden (I assume) pressure plate and Toyota clutch plate. The one I got was brass button type clutch on one side and organic friction the other. A hybrid. No idea of the name of it now but it was sweet. Easy to take off smoothly but if you dumped it she just grabbed and went.
Those supra boxes don't like you giving them a hard time in 5th, I blew 3 of them in to years. With a 253.

^ Those Sunbury ones work well enough, but if you drive the vehicle very often the clutch won't last long. Mine had almost no friction material left and was nearly 1mm into the pressure plate after only 2 years.

Spinning the thrust bearing without load won't tell you anything. Yes it would be a good idea to replace it while the box is out, if the carrier is in good condition you can just replace the bearing itself (should be a light press on/off), saves having to source the correct length carrier. The spigot bushing I would check but if not worn it will be fine.

The pressure plate is likely to match the engine (Holden?), and the driven plate match the gearbox (Toyota). Again its easy to replace them while out, but if in quite good condition not sure I'd bother.

I have received quotes ranging from $495 - $650 for a complete clutch kit (pressure plate, friction plate, thrust bearing and spigot bearing) via enquiry emails,

Then about another $500 to pull the gearbox out, fit all the near gear, put gearbox back in and then adjust as needed (really limited for room otherwise I would do this myself)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spigot-B....c100005.m1851

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Clutch-K...AAAOSwImRYIP72

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEAVY-DU...EAAOSwI6dan4eO

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-V....c100005.m1851

What about thoughts on the above kits ?

Cheers,

All depends what you intend to do with your car, if it's to give it a hard time it will wear out sooner so potentially a ceramic style might be better suited or as a daily driver an organic style. As for the pressure plate, it all depends on who did the conversion, most just use the Holden 308 style cover where some machine the flywheel & mount a Toyota cover, both with a Toyota plate.. It's always good practice to resurface the flywheel if the plate & cover are renewed. Then set up the fork correctly whilst all items are new & true, that way for the life of the clutch you will only need to adjust the cable for wear.

Pull the spigot bearing, if its the Holden sintered bronze style bush chances are it will go again, just soak it in engine oil for 24hrs or so, if is a bearing style throw another one at it. Have a good look at the release bearing carrier & the nose cone of the gear box, lubricate as necessary (but don't go overboard).

Originally Posted by cross8 pat

Call Sunbury brake and clutch. I got a kit from them a few years ago that was fantastic. It will use a Holden (I assume) pressure plate and Toyota clutch plate. The one I got was brass button type clutch on one side and organic friction the other. A hybrid. No idea of the name of it now but it was sweet. Easy to take off smoothly but if you dumped it she just grabbed and went.
Those supra boxes don't like you giving them a hard time in 5th, I blew 3 of them in to years. With a 253.

How's the clutch going, still going strong ?

Cheers,

Originally Posted by 76lxhatch

^ Those Sunbury ones work well enough, but if you drive the vehicle very often the clutch won't last long. Mine had almost no friction material left and was nearly 1mm into the pressure plate after only 2 years.

Spinning the thrust bearing without load won't tell you anything. Yes it would be a good idea to replace it while the box is out, if the carrier is in good condition you can just replace the bearing itself (should be a light press on/off), saves having to source the correct length carrier. The spigot bushing I would check but if not worn it will be fine.

The pressure plate is likely to match the engine (Holden?), and the driven plate match the gearbox (Toyota). Again its easy to replace them while out, but if in quite good condition not sure I'd bother.

Did you get a clutch kit from Sunbury as well ?

This car is just a weekend cruiser.

Assuming that any clutch kit for a Toyota Supra conversion to a Holden 308 would suit or are there big difference between them all, anything that I should look out for ?

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Lacksballs

All depends what you intend to do with your car, if it's to give it a hard time it will wear out sooner so potentially a ceramic style might be better suited or as a daily driver an organic style. As for the pressure plate, it all depends on who did the conversion, most just use the Holden 308 style cover where some machine the flywheel & mount a Toyota cover, both with a Toyota plate.. It's always good practice to resurface the flywheel if the plate & cover are renewed. Then set up the fork correctly whilst all items are new & true, that way for the life of the clutch you will only need to adjust the cable for wear.

Pull the spigot bearing, if its the Holden sintered bronze style bush chances are it will go again, just soak it in engine oil for 24hrs or so, if is a bearing style throw another one at it. Have a good look at the release bearing carrier & the nose cone of the gear box, lubricate as necessary (but don't go overboard).

Do any of the clutch kits is suggested look suitable, I was going to purchase a clutch kit and then get a clutch brake place to fit it, they pull gearbox out of my car, fit new gear, adjust then fit back in (drive in, drive out so to speak)


I don't have the room to do it myselfotherwise I would.

Cheers,

Most garages Ive managed or either worked for, will not be too interested in fitting 3rd party parts. Times things turn to shit & if there's any grey area, the cheap purchase price will all of a sudden become a major one, when either party doesn't accept blame! If you take it into a clutch specialist or respected garage & chat to them regarding your driving style, any future improvements, then he/she can be held responsible for the entire repair & have a warranty on both the repair & the components!

To be fair on the garage & its tech's: the car need to come in driveshaft off, gearbox out, clutch out, flywheel off, rear main seal inspected (chances are its leaking so sump & rear main cap off to renew rope seal & reassemble with new gaskets), resurface flywheel, clean & inspect all parts for wear. Refit the box with new clutch cover & plate, release & spigot bearings & fork. Adjust clutch & road test, remembering that its not a factory fit & could be a little fiddly to set up initially.

If you must I'd go for the Australian "made & operated" option rather than anything else from China on eBay. Again this is only my opinion as at least there is an Australian ph number! This could turn into a $1500-2000 repair very easily.

Originally Posted by Lacksballs

Most garages Ive managed or either worked for, will not be too interested in fitting 3rd party parts. Times things turn to shit & if there's any grey area, the cheap purchase price will all of a sudden become a major one, when either party doesn't accept blame! If you take it into a clutch specialist or respected garage & chat to them regarding your driving style, any future improvements, then he/she can be held responsible for the entire repair & have a warranty on both the repair & the components!

To be fair on the garage & its tech's: the car need to come in driveshaft off, gearbox out, clutch out, flywheel off, rear main seal inspected (chances are its leaking so sump & rear main cap off to renew rope seal & reassemble with new gaskets), resurface flywheel, clean & inspect all parts for wear. Refit the box with new clutch cover & plate, release & spigot bearings & fork. Adjust clutch & road test, remembering that its not a factory fit & could be a little fiddly to set up initially.

If you must I'd go for the Australian "made & operated" option rather than anything else from China on eBay. Again this is only my opinion as at least there is an Australian ph number! This could turn into a $1500-2000 repair very easily.

Any recommendations then ?

Cheers,

If your clutch is ok, why not just replace the fork?

Originally Posted by Lacksballs

If your clutch is ok, why not just replace the fork?

Gearbox would need to come out to replace the clutch fork anyways but figured no harm in everything new going back in that way I know its all fresh and not a clutch that is at least 12yrs old, etc.

$997 been quoted for a new heavy duty clutch, drive in drive out so to speak.

Cheers,

Ask if that includes machining of the flywheel as it should be done as a matter of course. $1000 seems fair for an organic clutch which is fine for daily use.