Thread: HQ-WB Airbag Suspension
23-05-2013, 09:23 PM #1
HQ-WB Airbag Suspension
I have quite a number of people ask me here, private messages, emails and facebook about how to go about airbagging their HQ onwards.
Miz-10 prompted me to make up a little play by play on how i went about it. Something I never had when i was building my car. All i had was trial and error, mistakes and learning curbs.
Hopefully this helps a number of people.
1 - Sedan Diff, spring locators cut off to allow airbag bracket to sit flat and the locating ring that bolts up underneath to locate through the hole
2 - Slam Specialities 6" Bags with Pre-fabbed bracketry. the ones laying down are fronts.
3 - Tank and compressor positioning. the stubby 5 gallon tank fits a lot better than the long skinny one.
4 - RH rear bag mounted, and bump stop removed. I later cut the lip from where the bumpstop bolted to
5 - you can see the front spring cup cut out to clear the airbag. I'm running HZ chassis in my HQ with the support rails.
6 - bag in the hole. See the clearance. When you air out the bag expands sideways a little bit.. hence extra clearance.
7 - front lower control arm, the nuts that are there for the shock have been ground/cut off so the airbags bracket can bolt through
8,9,10 - gives you an idea of external shock mount positioning. This was utilizing all stock components and geometry. Drop stubs will give me the extra drop needed to get on
the floor haha.
23-05-2013, 09:24 PM #2
11 - rear bag aired out. Can see diff tube to chassis clearance. That's the car sitting in the internal bump stops in the bags.
12 - painted, better idea of shock location etc.
13 - view of the lower front bag mount, the opening in the spring cup (I welded the skin after cutting for strength) and my relocated brake lines.
14 - idea of it all together. Not often you see a chassis assembled upside down haha
15 - sensors for the accuair auto level system. this is front right. Just took a lot of up/down to get the pivot point right.
16 - ecu on the left, fuses and relays in the middle, accuair 3/8" valve block.
17 - rear right sensor position. Took lots of ****ing about. Sensor is sitting on the brace that runs from the chassis to the trailing arm mount.
18 - shows full extension, sensor geometry and positioning of lower pivot point.
19 - low enough? Without drop spindles, sitting on inbuilt bumps in the rear bags. Will go lower once I mini tub, notch the rear a little and shorten the bag bracket. To compensate, ill just have to shorten the arm that runs to the level sensor.
20 - Under body clearance with the 15's on.
Last edited by pont69; 23-05-2013 at 09:30 PM.
23-05-2013, 09:34 PM #3
Wheel and tyre combo as follows -
15x8 and 15x7 Convo Pro's
4.5" BS on the rear, 3 3/8" on the front
245/60/15 mastercraft avenger tyres rear, 205/65/15 yokohama A drive front
Standard inner guards still in place, Rear arches have been rolled, pumped slightly and the inner well flattened with a mallet.
Standard length HQ salisbury with drum brakes.
Standard SHORTENED shocks fit front and rear. Relocation in front is designed to use standard style shocks, less the bar that runs through the lower bush from factory
03-06-2013, 01:20 AM #4
Nice work on the write up James!
Good to see the 3.375" BS 15x7's on the front sit in the guards nicely when slammed, as I've gone the same for the Tonner and been wondering what the clearance will be like haha.
03-06-2013, 10:30 AM #5
Here's aired out Hancock
Glad to have helped at least a few people haha. This site is an abundance of info, good to be able to add to it
03-06-2013, 12:40 PM #6
your pictures make me feel like bagging out my hz now.. pitty ive already forked out for a massive drop tank and pedder springs all around..
03-06-2013, 01:27 PM #7
Good work Pont. Very descriptive.
Will definitely be considering air bags on whatever the next project is.HG Sedan - http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...kingswood.html
HQ One Tonner - http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...ner-build.html
LS swap charcoal canister info - http://www.aussiev8.com.au/chevrolet...-question.html
28-06-2013, 09:33 PM #8
great write up!! definitely helps out heaps! ive just gotta work out how to go about doing the rear of my panelvan:/
28-06-2013, 09:42 PM #9
30-06-2013, 09:32 PM #10
30-06-2013, 09:55 PM #11
15-07-2013, 03:31 PM #12
awesome stuff man, will have to take this info and use on the tonner...!I Hope You Smoke...? Because If You Dont, Your Gonna Choke...!!!
Check It >>> : http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...r-rebuild.html
16-07-2013, 09:39 PM #13
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
16-07-2013, 11:20 PM #14
17-07-2013, 10:02 AM #15
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
2 Link set ups are no good in a air suspension set up as the links are fixed solid to the axle so when raised or lowered pinion angle will change to whatever wants, meaning you will flog out uni joints ect... Unlike a four link where your pinion angle will stay the same throughout its cycle. Sorry but never seen a minitruck in Australia with this set up or atleast engineered (in the good old usa they do 2 link set ups all the time but they also have other out there ideas that they think are safe also lol!)
As for bagging a car retaining leaf springs, as long as it's just a load assistance kit then yeah all good. Cheap way to get a ute touching the ground is too just have the main leaf and bags on top. A leaf spring is going to fatigue a great deal when it has to flex say up to 12" and overtime will eventually snap.
Four link FTW!
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