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  1. #1
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    Default 77 Statesman Deville - Rebuild 308, replace 308 or custom (355 stroker or carby ls1 3

    Hi all! First time poster here.

    Car: 1977 Holden Statesman Deville.
    Engine: 11QT897482-308
    Box: Turbo400

    Been a Ford man all 28 years of my life up until recently. Decided to give holdens a go and it is also my first ever project. I bought a 1977 Holden statesman deville unregistered. Everything is original except the motor but have receipt and documentation from when Moore Power engine exchanges did the exchange in 1989. (Pics attached) The original engine number was 11QT902508 and the current engine is 11QT897482. Also have a spreadsheet of various parts (seals, brake lines, ignition, rebuilt carby and added cruise control) that got replaced in 2012/2013 (Pics attached). The body is pretty straight with some rust under scuff plates and in the bottom of the doors which will be getting cut out and replaced properly (no bog). When i bought the vehicle i was told it only had a seized starter and had been sitting for 4 months without being started. Also informed me last service was 8 months ago as he was getting it ready to be put back on the road. I took his word as hes a family friend and got it towed 1.5hrs home. Removed starter motor and replaced as it was seized. Still nothing so traced problem back to ignition coil and replaced that. The car was still not firing so checked dizzy with firing order all good. Replaced spark plugs and fuel. Tried turning over again and a glimmer of hope was there when it sounded so close to starting. My next theory was a sticky valve from sitting around. Removed rocker covers and asked my partner to turn over the engine so i could get a visual on what was going on. What i seen next was something i had never seen before. As the old girls valves are all working just as they should all of a sudden coolant comes projecting out of the oiler hole in the top of the push rod. I had a look through at the cam lobes to find rusty sludge covering everything. I rang the previous owner and expressed my disappointment as he gave me his word that he had it running 4 months prior and that if there was any problems we would sort it out. He said that he did give me his word and asked what should we do about it. We both agreed on keep pulling engine apart to make sure there wasnt corrosion from the water jacket into the block. I removed front end and pulled engine out. I now have it down to a bare block. I suspect the coolant came from either a blown head gasket or no sealant on the head studs that travel through the water jacket. As you can see from the pics the coolant has been swishing around in here for quite some time and all internals will need to be replaced and block machined. Heads will also need alot of attention.

    Im unsure in which direction to travel next and would love some advice from people who have knowledge in this area. I think these are my 3 options from what i have read.


    1: Is it worth rebuilding this block as it is a HZ statesman engine with documentation to what happened to the original?

    2: Replace engine with a reconditioned 308 with vn heads ect?

    3. Replace engine with carby fed Ls1 383?

    Or if it keeps giving me drama ill just fix it properly by swapping the 308 out for a barra and replace the deville badges with fairlane ones hahaha

    Thanks in advance

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
    Last edited by 77 statesman deville; 18-02-2019 at 01:02 AM.

  2. #2
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    HI
    Just get the block/ crank measured up to verify its been machined /reconditioned

    Then just get EVERYTHING hot tanked /cleaned up . The rust will act like grinding paste if it has been running .
    Change lifters for new ones . Check on the old lifter if there is wear ??? The cam might be totalled

    Check bores and big end, mains , cam bearing for score marks . If there marked at all chuckem out .

    Oil pump needs checking .
    Check block, deck for cracks and pulled threads

    Heads need stripping and cleaned to get the rust out .

    Check timing cover/block and t/cover to pump for corrosion . Check inlet manifold and thermostat for corrosion .

    did ya mark the pistons relevant to the cylinder number ?


    If ya do wanna get rid of it and ya wanna sell give me a yell .

    Would be 1200 +/- if everything measures up no labour includes a few parts

    BEST SOLUTION
    Buy complete VT motor ,put a carby on a go fast manifold/carby and extractors done

    355 bottom end parts start at 1700$ plus machine work
    VN heads ?
    OR
    A LS motor cost a little more but the best result
    Last edited by swampy; 18-02-2019 at 02:12 AM.

  3. #3
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    Cheers swampy

    Yeah i believe all internals will need replacing. All bearing journals were scored. Funny enough the pistons are the only thing i did mark out of the whole lot.

    In regards to your best solution, do you think the car would be worth alot more in the future if it was kept with this block rather than a vt motor?

    What is your reason for wanting to buy it?

    Cheers

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Considering you have a pretty clean unmolested original car, I would simply look at rebuilding the engine you have (pending crack testing & measuring up)

    You could rebuild it in either standard stroke or go 355. Do you want to keep it with early heads or go VN style.

    You just need to decide what you want the car to be whether thatís a cruiser or whatever and how much cash youíre prepared to throw at it to achieve it. Not forgetting that if whatever you do to the engine, the transmission, convertor and rear diff gears will also soak up from cash if you want to make it quick in a straight line.

    Me personally, if I had a big long tail like that Iíd just rebuild the engine for some extra performance (and classic V8 sound) and keep cruising the old girl in style.

  5. #5
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    The valley looks like it has been flooded which would tend to indicate the coolant has come from a leaking intake gasket or the manifold has corroded.

    It should be rebuild-able but I don't think you're going to get out of trouble for $1200.

    If the crank needs a grind and you need new pistons then a 355 kit is not going to cost much more.

    Like Crab said, keep it semi original, it looks like a cool old girl, VN heads if you want (you are going to have to replace cam, lifters and manifold anyway looking at what you have there) but keep it under the bonnet and cruise on !

    JMHO.

  6. #6
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    HI
    I need a good bore [potentially] 308 turbo block . My block has poor quality machine work . Rassembled mismatched rods to cylinder bores etc etc .
    If your bores are rust pitted the engines a right off . They may clean up but then again they maynot . Do u no what the oversize the bores are already ??. What undersize is the crank [printed on the back of bearing shells ] ??

    Numbers correct is only worth it if it was a owned by someone special or a very special model . With full owner and service history.
    An engine that's been rebuilt with often cheap reconditioner parts is not genuine rebuild . Few are .

    I am not a big believer in a special standard vehicle . Look into it most Holden cars are nothing special .Not many special features worth noting . Holdens were a low spec cars in the early days .

    Personally if u could get a VT motor or a VT HSV factory stroker all the better . The cost will be similar to the high perf rebuild cost.

  7. #7
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    You could also consider an old school small block chev...

  8. #8
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    HI
    77Stato dev
    My donor engine 308 is almost toast and as its only going tobe almost standard chasing up reasonable//re-ring bottom end . I already have good pre smog cylinder heads and most of the bolt on stuff .

    I am doing up a chev also for my HQ and once again unless your buying a running motor it gets expensive fast building from scratch .
    A sbchev is almost as costly as an LS motor . The LS motor has the easy power advantage of everything else . Also conversion Ls bits are getting stupid cheap .

    If I were doing up a Holden , a VT roller motor preferably stroked would be the go . The Holden is a Tidy package go as hard as any chev 350 . The chevy needs heads to perform and then once u start to spend money a LS looks good .

  9. #9
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Maybe there isnt a need to go budget, cheap on everything why are we assuming this guy hasnt got money to spend on it...

    If you have the cash i would go straight to small block chev and do a 400, or an LS based engine ...

  10. #10
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    if you go SBC buy a new Dart block.. way superior to the old factory item and nothing in it once the old anchor has had all the machining done.

  11. #11
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    Sweet! So the cars value doesnt change whether i rebuild this 308 or put a vt roller engine in?


    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    HI
    77 Stato

    Its all about condition . No stupid modifications . Preferably no body mods . Restoration of body done properly . Hand stripping any panel and blasting under body will be your friend . Rust cut properly will last and add value . Replace whole panels if u can to help eradicate rust . Keep as many accessories as possible and preferably a Holden V8.

    The 355 Holden will give good amount of power . A chev gen1 /oldschool will need money spent to achieve the sameHp/Tq as a 355 stroker . The key to the stroker is

    stroker increase over stock
    VN heads flow more air == HP and TQ
    roller cam increases HP and TQ over a flat tappet cam


    If u could run the stroked VT motor as EFI all the better . A moderate cost compared to any other option .

  13. #13
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    Strip and get the original block/parts cleaned, oil everything and wrap for storage.

    Fit the engine of your choice.

  14. #14
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    i am with guy incognito. store the original and put a new motor of your choice

  15. #15
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    Value doesnít matter unless you want to sell it, statos are going up in value but i bet a SBC/BBC or LS powered one will still be going for more dollars then an original example unless itís showroom condition

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