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  1. #1
    casual poster
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    Default LC GTR (no Tags) in the build

    Hi guys,

    Below are some photo's on the LC Two Door.

    The car has signs of being a GTR but has no tags so who know really.

    GTR bits include:
    Spare Wheel Retainer Bracket
    GTR Badge Holes in Rear Quarters
    GTR Stainless Steel Interior Trim Holes
    NON Welded Flutes in Guards
    It has the holes in the Firewall for the GTR Throttle setup

    Anyway, I've had is for a year and I've been slowly working on it

    When I first picked it up



    After I cleaned it up a bit


    Floors




    My first attempt at a repair (Not finished)


    Started rubbing it back by hand


    Got sick of doing it b hand a bought a Rotessorie


    Made up some brackets to mount it


    Mounted

  2. #2
    casual poster
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    Nov 2017
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    Sydney
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    Default

    Got it blasted (keeping the flares)



    Hit it with a coat of Primer


    Have removed the front fibreglass spoiler



    That's how the car is sitting now so theres still a lot to do!

  3. #3
    casual poster
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    Nov 2017
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    Default

    I've also picked up some parts for it along the way

    Grill and surround that aren't too bad but will be getting re-conditioned


    Re-upholstered front and rear seats with rails that I scored off eBay

  4. #4
    casual poster
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    Jun 2012
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    Shellharbour
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    Default

    Mate awesome, so glad for you that you got it blasted, saves so much work, just don’t let it get surface rust. I will follow the build my first car was a 2 door Torana. What are you going to do regarding the engine?

  5. #5
    casual poster
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    Nov 2017
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    Default

    Thanks mate

    I am planning on fitting a mental 202 6 cylinder.

    Keeping it old school.

  6. #6
    casual poster
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    Jun 2012
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    Shellharbour
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gatti View Post
    Thanks mate

    I am planning on fitting a mental 202 6 cylinder.

    Keeping it old school.
    Ok great, Iím building a engine that is pretty old school or from an old school era but with modern touches. Perhaps you may be interested? So the engine is a V8 and first appeared in 1978, so not as old as yours and I suppose two key differences are the engine material and fuel injection. However fuel injection can be a good addition on a wild engine as it helps the engine to be more stable. The one area I would suggest you look at is the throttle bodies and the fuel injection. Iím running AT Power throttles which are shaftless and as such give an appreciable flow advantage with better throttle response and better ram effect. This is the same style of throttle that the old F1 engines ran. The AT Power throttles are about 99.5% efficient whereas the F1 versions are about 99.8% efficient. This compares which standard throttles at 93% and I would guess a carburettor is below 90%. Hereís a clip to visualise.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LXMJCZowwwA

  7. #7
    casual poster
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    Quote Originally Posted by 928S View Post
    Ok great, I’m building a engine that is pretty old school or from an old school era but with modern touches. Perhaps you may be interested? So the engine is a V8 and first appeared in 1978, so not as old as yours and I suppose two key differences are the engine material and fuel injection. However fuel injection can be a good addition on a wild engine as it helps the engine to be more stable. The one area I would suggest you look at is the throttle bodies and the fuel injection. I’m running AT Power throttles which are shaftless and as such give an appreciable flow advantage with better throttle response and better ram effect. This is the same style of throttle that the old F1 engines ran. The AT Power throttles are about 99.5% efficient whereas the F1 versions are about 99.8% efficient. This compares which standard throttles at 93% and I would guess a carburettor is below 90%. Here’s a clip to visualise.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LXMJCZowwwA

    Good luck. It will be interesting to see your result.

  8. #8
    casual poster
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    After a long time of not touching the car over Christmas I'm getting back into it.

    First repair was this sill section



    I pulled the door off for better access and what a prick of a job that was! 7 hours later!!



    Cut out the rust section and cleaned up the area behind the sill (this photo was taken before I cleaned it up and painted it)



    Welded in the replacement section

    Last edited by Gatti; 26-02-2019 at 06:33 PM.

  9. #9
    casual poster
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    Next job is replacing the transmission tunnel as it was butchered by a previous owner



    I scored a tunnel cut to use for the repair


  10. #10
    casual poster
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    I cut out the transmission tunnel on the weekend so I could replace the butchered gear shifter hole.



    All trimmed up and ready to weld in




  11. #11
    casual poster
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    Last weekend I ground back my welds and did most of it again, this time with the welder on max voltage (mine only has min or max) I was also much slower with how fast I went over the seam which got much more heat and better penetration into it.

    I then ground them back again (I know, I'm a grinder not a welder) and hit it with seam sealer and a bit of rust proof paint (until I paint the whole floor.

    Not as good as most of the other work on this site but I'm pretty happy with it now.




  12. #12
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    It's much better than what you started with. Just make sure to seal and paint it underneath as well if you haven't already.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by hq308 View Post
    It's much better than what you started with. Just make sure to seal and paint it underneath as well if you haven't already.
    Thanks mate

  14. #14
    casual poster
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    I've been chipping away at it slowly.

    Added a new section in behind the drivers side sill to close it up and sealed it


    Tidied up under the trans tunnel and sealed it


    Cut out the rusted drivers side cowl section and revealed more rust


    Welded in two small sections to repair the rusted section (I did tidy it more but didn't take a photo)


    Welded in the news drivers side cowl top section




    I'll do the passenger side next weekend

  15. #15
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    Mate I don’t want to put a dampener on your project but I have some concerns for you. Your welding in my expert opinion is not good enough for these structural areas. I know these cars are not the strongest in terms of crash safety but if you take away the little strength the have with sub standard repairs you are putting yourself and family at unnecessary risk. Also those welds will most likely rust in pretty short order. All the areas that have little divots are rust havens. I not posting this to cause you offense because I’m more likely to draw fire for saying it but people put things on these forums to get critiqued and to show their work. I haven’t re-read the whole thread again but are you using a gas less mig? These are the worst way to repair cars just in case this is what you are using. I suspect part of your problem is the welder. Cheers.

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