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  1. #16
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    I dropped the K frame and painted that and also rebuilt the power steering rack.
    New A/C hoses made with a low pressure port fitting at the evaporator so that I can charge the system with the new A/C compressor. The original compressor has the low side port on it, but the only new replacements don't have the port, so you either put an inline fitting in the low pressure hose, or use the fitting that i have. I think my fitting looks neater.
    New heater hoses.
    Also painted the brake booster which was just another PITA as I don't enjoy sanding and painting too much, but anyway it's done now.

  2. #17
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    Where do you stop right? So I can't leave most things looking clean and painted and the extractors looking second hand. So I opted for ceramic coating with a white finish - OK not to everyones taste, but its what I wanted.



    I little detail, the metal lid on the brake master cylinder was rusty and pitted. I found a shop in Dandenong that do black metal finishing. I rather this look than painting it black, you can still see some rust pitting, but I reckon it looks OK otherwise.






  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by vkss69 View Post
    Hey 46Crab - I'm just going for mild 308, budget stopped me looking at stroker kits, even though there are some cheap parts popping up due to people doing LS builds. I'll be happy for a nice sounding 308.

    Here's the culprit...


    Quick cleanup while the cook is out shopping.


    Anyone know or recognise the markings on this cam?
    Thatís gold bro


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #19
    casual poster
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    VKSS69 - Iím enjoying your build mate.

  5. #20
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.

    The M21 has been given the once over too. New bearings and syncro's, plus I tracked down some original GM secondhand gears that were near perfect.

    By ringing around some older well established gearbox builders, I found these parts that were an upgrade back in the day. A layshaft and gear that had been modified to allow a 21mm shaft (up from 19MM) to reduce flex. Apparently it's a toploader shaft. Just needed to get the housing holes bored out to accept the larger layshaft.

    Also a main shaft that has been modified with a spiral cut groove that helps pump oil into 1st gear (pictured on left). These mod's apparently help the old dinosaurs last a bit longer with a bit more HP.




  6. #21
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    Engine machining done. Bored 20 thou over, TP diamond honed, crank line bored etc, balanced rotating bits.
    Blocked decked and squared.
    Light skim of the heads and block to keep compression OK, but still had to machine/dish the flat top pistons by 5cc.







    Last edited by vkss69; 03-12-2018 at 11:21 PM.

  7. #22
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    Skipping along...








  8. #23
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    As mentioned earlier, I wanted to keep the original manifold. It was in reasonable shape, but while it was apart i got the water jacket areas aluminium welded to prolong its life a bit, then the faces machined - came up nice.


  9. #24
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    Pretty much assembled. Primed the oil system with a hand pump to bleed out all of the air to help on startup. I got about 40psi out of the hand pump!


  10. #25
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    For those that have wrestled with fitting extractors once the engine is installed, I didn't want to risk scratching up the paint in the engine bay or the extractors. So I did a quick trial fit of the engine with the extractors bolted up and was able to sneak it in no problem. I reckon this saved a lot of swearing and scun knuckles.

  11. #26
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Should be a nice engine, probably best not to get to carried away with a 355 because then you'd need a new gearbox too! I like the white headers, makes it look like a race car :-)

    The dishwasher trick is a great thing too, if I remove the plate racks I can just squeeze a pair of heads into mine...

  12. #27
    Newbie vkss69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 76lxhatch View Post
    Should be a nice engine, probably best not to get to carried away with a 355 because then you'd need a new gearbox too! I like the white headers, makes it look like a race car :-)

    The dishwasher trick is a great thing too, if I remove the plate racks I can just squeeze a pair of heads into mine...
    LOL, thanks 76lxhatch. The dishwasher was awesome, worth getting one off hard-rubbish to stick in the shed (save the cook going apeshit if she found out the house one got used).

    Yes about the gearbox etc, I'm just happy to have a nice 308.

  13. #28
    Part of the furniture
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    Hi
    Fella`s ya get`n it all wrong ya have to be using the whole kitchen !!!
    Just plan ahead , heat proof engine and caliper paint takes 2 hours to cook in the oven on a dinner plate of course !!

    Of course u have used the d/washer to clean parts first ,,cooked in oven and don`t forget the clean up after in the washer again . HA HA HA HA HA !!!!

  14. #29
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swampy View Post
    heat proof engine and caliper paint takes 2 hours to cook in the oven
    I may have done that one a couple of times too...

  15. #30
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vkss69 View Post
    Thanks guys.

    The M21 has been given the once over too. New bearings and syncro's, plus I tracked down some original GM secondhand gears that were near perfect.

    By ringing around some older well established gearbox builders, I found these parts that were an upgrade back in the day. A layshaft and gear that had been modified to allow a 21mm shaft (up from 19MM) to reduce flex. Apparently it's a toploader shaft. Just needed to get the housing holes bored out to accept the larger layshaft.

    Also a main shaft that has been modified with a spiral cut groove that helps pump oil into 1st gear (pictured on left). These mod's apparently help the old dinosaurs last a bit longer with a bit more HP.




    ...as a Aussie box builder of many years
    (and yes i have one in the race car), cupla comments

    the larger layshaft mod lots swear by but it creates more problems
    than it solves. Firstly the life of the gear is much reduced as you
    remove the case hardening in doing so. I have seen boxes where
    people have only gotten 2 or 3 years road use before the needle rollers
    pit in the inside surface and eventually don't roll. Good bye gearbox as it
    is full of metal filings. (I don't do this mod) PLUS... the larger layshaft puts
    stresses on the gearbox case With a larger hole) and i have seen them crack
    around the front hole in the case

    The 1st gear oiling mod is good but works better with the thicker circlip mod
    Another good oiling mod is another oil feed hole on the cluster gear (one is not enough)


    and finally, spend time getting the internal clearances spot on (you may have to machine the bronze washers
    or even add shims behind them) to get clearances correct. If not, the cluster gear walks around...
    and good bye other gears

    __________________________________
    ONE OF THE Aussie V8 MODERATOR/ADMIN TEAM
    Never late in an AussieV8!
    Club circuit racing...the best fun you can have with your pants on

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