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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickey juice View Post
    Do you know what heads are on the early 304's ?
    Just ordinary 4.2/5.0 blue/black heads. Identical performance wise to a red V8 head, just different shape EGR port and centre bolt locations for the inlet manifold. There were 5000 VB prefixed V5H engines in VK as part of Group A homologation so that the VK Group A could qualify for Group A, and these had the bigger valve heads, same heads as the VH and VK V5H 308 engines. However the bulk of 304 in VK had the standard heads, as did the bulk of VC/WB to VK 253 and 308. VL 304 were all bigger valve heads.

  2. #17
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    Thanks mate, you are a gold mine of information. I know where there is a cheap 304 not far from me and its been acid tanked and the heads decked, that's why I asked.. I saw your reply after I had edited my original post so i''l repost the question.
    whats a good price for a complete Muncie with clutch and shifter. ?
    Last edited by Mickey juice; 06-12-2017 at 09:41 PM.

  3. #18
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    Which Muncie? M20, M21 or M22? Small or large output shaft? Fine spline input? What shifter? Lots of factors including condition.

  4. #19
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    If you’re determined to use the 253 and want better rods get a set of A9L rods as others have suggested and use a 308 crank (same stroke as 253 but heavier counterweights) That way you shouldn’t have to worry about Mallory as they’ll need to take weight out of the crank.

  5. #20
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    "Which Muncie? M20, M21 or M22? Small or large output shaft? Fine spline input? What shifter? Lots of factors including condition."

    I'll send you a PM...
    Last edited by Mickey juice; 06-12-2017 at 10:13 PM.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by hq308 View Post
    If you’re determined to use the 253 and want better rods get a set of A9L rods as others have suggested and use a 308 crank (same stroke as 253 but heavier counterweights) That way you shouldn’t have to worry about Mallory as they’ll need to take weight out of the crank.
    Hmmm, interesting, Any 308 crank ok ?

  7. #22
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    Depends on when your HQ 253 was built. The rear main seal changed late in HQ so crankshafts changed to suit.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by HK1837 View Post
    Depends on when your HQ 253 was built. The rear main seal changed late in HQ so crankshafts changed to suit.
    Mine has a rope seal if that helps, I read somewhere you can get them converted for the later type seal, Not sure what that would cost though..

  9. #24
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    Rope is the later type seal. Early were neoprene. So you can use any 308 crank from basically mid 1974 through to the end of 308 mid VK. HT-HQ are basically all neoprene rear main seal.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickey juice View Post
    I tend not to be the most orthodox person around so I have a few questions..

    I have a 253 i'm going to build up and put in my HD wagon, I can get a cheap set of 5.7 bushed little end stroker rods cheap, If I wanted to use the longer rod on a stock 253 crank, would a piston with a higher pin height work, if i can find one close to the correct height, it may save me decking the block to get zero deck height, I've seen this type of thing done on bikes before, like CB350 pistons in a 750/4 Honda to give it an 810 kit, and Hyabusa rods in a 750/4, either way I'm curious.? I've looked at pistons with higher pin heights and found that the cadillac northstar has hypereutectic flat top pistons stock and they are cheap, they have a higher pin height and are 93mm pistons, they have a 23mm pin diameter so I'd have to get the pin bore bored out .55mm to suit the holden pin size {is that correct?}, can you do that sort of thing..? Told you I wasn't orthodox, it keeps my mind busy..!!
    Just use the 5.7" rods and cut the top off a 253 piston.

    The difference is only about 0.070", the standard piston will be at least 0.020" down the bore anyway, that only leaves you with 0.050" to shave off the top of your standard piston.

    No stuffing around with weird pistons and you end up lighter to boot..... win/win.

    JMHO

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by HK1837 View Post
    Rope is the later type seal. Early were neoprene. So you can use any 308 crank from basically mid 1974 through to the end of 308 mid VK. HT-HQ are basically all neoprene rear main seal.
    Ok, thanks... Did you get my PM ?

  12. #27
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    Well I sold the wagon so that part of the build is done, but, I bought a HD holden Ute for a great price, needs floor pans but the rest of the body is virtually rust free, came from out west. Also scored a set of HT Monaro seats to go in it. The 253 will now have a home in the Ute...!
    Last edited by Mickey juice; 08-01-2018 at 09:57 PM. Reason: spelling mistake

  13. #28
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    Scored a complete rust free HR premier wagon floor , so the rusty floor problem is solved...

  14. #29
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    Does anyone have any recommendations for something to put on light surface rust ? I have to put my Ute in storage for a couple of months, I don't have any space in my garage so I'm putting a big tarp over the car. Its a farm fresh car with light surface rust on the roof and a few other spots, I just want to put something on the surface rust to inhibit it while its stored, I live near the coast so the air is humid and slightly salty... Any idea's would be great...

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