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  1. #31
    casual poster cpr1116's Avatar
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    There is a rust prevention additive in the water, it gives you 72 hours (From memory) to do something with the bare metal. Hence the etch priming.

  2. #32
    casual poster cpr1116's Avatar
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    Painted the chassis and suspension parts on the weekend. Next step is to put the front-end back together.






  3. #33
    Part of the furniture wb_202's Avatar
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    man that looks great! and thanks for the parts man! your a life savour

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpr1116 View Post
    There is a rust prevention additive in the water, it gives you 72 hours (From memory) to do something with the bare metal. Hence the etch priming.


    He mate, if you don't mind me asking, roughly how much was it?

    Cheers

  5. #35
    casual poster cpr1116's Avatar
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    Hey Milosh, I got it done at mates rates, so was a bit lucky !!! I think he mentioned full tote odds for an under and over blasting was either $1500 or $2500. I can't remember which. Sorry.

  6. #36
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    All good, I like how it comes up and I have a Hz in my shed I am getting started on, been 22 years since I last played with a car, and I'm at the point now that I need to either start stripping the paint or get someone to do it.

    Then rust and panel work, but a base like that would make it easier

    Cheers

  7. #37
    casual poster cpr1116's Avatar
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    Painted the underbody with body deadner on the weekend.








  8. #38
    casual poster cpr1116's Avatar
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    Finished putting the front end back together last night, had heaps of trouble getting the swaybar on, and the drivers side steering arm I got off ebay is bent which I didn't notice when it arrived, so a bit pissed. but its altogether now.
    Had another issue, I put the Girlock Alloy calipers from the parts car on because I'd read these were the best calipers that came out on the Hq-Hz range. But they are bigger and the old Mags I've got and was going to run scrape on the calipers !!!! Going to be a bit of a budget blow as I'll have to get some 15 or 16 inch rims for clearance.




  9. #39
    casual poster Willie's Avatar
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    I have 14 inch wheels on mine & they fit o.k. All HZ's & WB commercials came from the factory with 14 inch wheels.

  10. #40
    casual poster cpr1116's Avatar
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    The Body Shell is getting close to completion. Sprayed the inside of the cabin with body deadener, finished off inside the boot. Painted the tank and installed and have started running the fuel lines. I need to spray some sort of rust agent in the sills does anyone have any suggestions as to a really good product to use ???






  11. #41
    Part of the furniture wb_202's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpr1116 View Post
    The Body Shell is getting close to completion. Sprayed the inside of the cabin with body deadener, finished off inside the boot. Painted the tank and installed and have started running the fuel lines. I need to spray some sort of rust agent in the sills does anyone have any suggestions as to a really good product to use ???





    Looking good,give cavity wax a try drill a couple of holes in your scuff jams and fill it up the scuff plates should hide the holes

  12. #42
    casual poster cpr1116's Avatar
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    Hey Guys I need some help. Put the diff and chassis back in last night and dropped it back on the ground. Yay !!!! But I've got issues with the rear end. I've put in a disc brake 10 bolt Salisbury that I was told was out of a HZ Statesman. The right upper trailing arm was a real prick to get in. The rest of the trailing arms went in relatively easily. But the whole thing doesn't look right. The front of the diff hangs down at a slight angle, the angle the upper trailing arms are connecting to the diff bushes does not look square (If that makes sense, I'll get a photo and post it) and the whole thing seems to be forward by about an inch. It's also not in track with the diff sitting to the right hand side by about a centimetre (You wouldn't think it, but it's VERY noticable). I've used the original trailing arms from my car.

    Does anyone know.

    A) Can this be done, should it be a straight swap.
    B) Are there different length trailing arms, because to me it looks like the ones I'm using are too short and the whole thing need to move back.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Diff


    Car on the ground


    Rear wheel arch. It just looks wrong.

  13. #43
    Do you ever leave?
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    one solution is adjustable arms macdonald bros do them there are probably others

    but sounds like something funky going on under there get out the measuring equipment and have a good look at everything

  14. #44
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    There's only one length in trailing arms, you could try swapping them side to side to see if the issue moves with it. I wouldn't worry too much about where it's sitting in the wheel arch while it's sitting that high, the diff will come back a little when the suspension comes down. As a test put the back on stands take the rear springs out and jack the diff up till the wheel is at a proper height and see where it sits. The wheel doesn't move directly up and down, it actually travels in an arc.

  15. #45
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    Hi mate

    Are you in Adelaide? I don't suppose you still have the rotisserie, if so are you keen to get rid of it?

    Cheers

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