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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by wb_202 View Post
    mate! looking good! ! good to see another hq being saved!and do you have the drawings for the english wheel?
    cheers. I will measure it up for you.. I made it up as I went along because I couldn't find and drawings when I built it. might take me a while but will do it

  2. #47
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    Good question on how to do the join where the factory lead wipe is - i am about to have to do a very similar thing but on the otherside of the join. I'll be interested to see how you do yours !!

  3. #48
    Part of the furniture wb_202's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottvnz View Post
    cheers. I will measure it up for you.. I made it up as I went along because I couldn't find and drawings when I built it. might take me a while but will do it
    thanks mate cause the guys out here in broken hill think that crapadores are more better then the old kingswoods so im doing something different then a V8 under the hood dropping a buick VN HSV V6 from the SV3800 with the stage 2 shift kit unless i can find a T56

  4. #49
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    Don't ya hate when you spend hours(days) making a patch panel and its looking really good, then you go and cut a little bit to much and Wammo ya stuff it right up.
    I am really struggling with the rear quarter roof above the door. mixing from roof to gutter to door recess.
    it's doin my head in

  5. #50
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    ya, I got somewhere today.. gotta love having to look after kids in the school holidays and the wifes at work... you get to ignore the kids and hide in the garage.
    nearly completed the roof section I had trouble with. I am pretty happy but won't really know how it looks till I get some undercoat on it. hopefully it matches the other side.

    started of making a new gutter



    then I tacked the outer skin on




    still need to attach a small section but then that's done.

  6. #51
    Phat, Fast And Low HQ_GTS_Tonner's Avatar
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    Looks real good mate...

    Just a suggestion to help with penetration a little, leaving about a 1mm gap is an idea to get good penetration so that when you grind it down you still have good meat on your weld underneath just so no cracking will occur if done right, saves doing it now then finding it after panel and paint...

    Just a suggestion for ya bud weather you use it or not, its just the way i do it...

    Cheers,

    Curtis
    I Hope You Smoke...? Because If You Dont, Your Gonna Choke...!!!

    Check It >>> : http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...r-rebuild.html

  7. #52
    Part of the furniture wb_202's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottvnz View Post
    Don't ya hate when you spend hours(days) making a patch panel and its looking really good, then you go and cut a little bit to much and Wammo ya stuff it right up.
    I am really struggling with the rear quarter roof above the door. mixing from roof to gutter to door recess.
    it's doin my head in
    not bloody wrong there i had 3 goes just to get it all right in the end i put the nose cone and rad support on then the guards had 2 mates putting on both guards and presto it was perfect then it came time to adjust the bonnet to make sure it was the same as the guards perfect but when the bonnet was closed found out the bonnet was damaged on the front left hand corner so ill be tackling that some time in the next few weeks but needing to seek approval from the engineer to have my tank enlarged to add for 30% extra fuel which means in the one tonner chassis theres not going to be much room for a twin exhaust only a single 2" exhaust hopefully the engineer can sign off on it and the hand made inner guards to give that show room feel while waiting on the V6 conversion kit to arrive and the wiring kit for the statesman dash

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by HQ_GTS_Tonner View Post
    Looks real good mate...

    Just a suggestion to help with penetration a little, leaving about a 1mm gap is an idea to get good penetration so that when you grind it down you still have good meat on your weld underneath just so no cracking will occur if done right, saves doing it now then finding it after panel and paint...

    Just a suggestion for ya bud weather you use it or not, its just the way i do it...

    Cheers,

    Curtis
    cheers for the advise. do you think I should plunge a cutoff disc in there now to get the gap or undo my tacks and do it properly.. thinking while I am writing,best take it off otherwise the grinding dust could rust inside in the future.

  9. #54
    Phat, Fast And Low HQ_GTS_Tonner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottvnz View Post
    cheers for the advise. do you think I should plunge a cutoff disc in there now to get the gap or undo my tacks and do it properly.. thinking while I am writing,best take it off otherwise the grinding dust could rust inside in the future.
    yeah putting a cutting disk into if would be an idea but a better one is you just trim ya piece down like you mentioned... also if you are worried about grinding dust in between the roof frame and skin all i did was smash a heap of "Fish Oil" in from behind it from the inside, thats also a good way to fine any pin holes and stuff coz it will seep threw any cracks and stuff...
    I Hope You Smoke...? Because If You Dont, Your Gonna Choke...!!!

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  10. #55
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    how about the debate over mig versus tig people? I was thinking over getting a tig for my patchwork as I have been told you can then dolly out the shrinkage from welding. what's your preference people?

  11. #56
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    and does anyone know if those SCA brand spray guns from supercheap are any good

  12. #57
    Part of the furniture bloodycars's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottvnz View Post
    and does anyone know if those SCA brand spray guns from supercheap are any good
    They'll get u out of trouble!!

  13. #58
    Phat, Fast And Low HQ_GTS_Tonner's Avatar
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    I love both types of welding...

    Mig is grate for filling holes with metal but tig is alot better for penetration... i mainly use tig for detailed stuff myself and mig for panel work only coz i find it quicker...
    Just my opinion i mean if you got all the gapes right and you machine set up[ correctly with the right heat and wire speed mig is grate as well...

    Cheers

    Curtis
    I Hope You Smoke...? Because If You Dont, Your Gonna Choke...!!!

    Check It >>> : http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...r-rebuild.html

  14. #59
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    tig would be a pain everything needs to be pretty clean and trying to get into places would be a headache also a mig is a lot more forgiving if you haven't got welding experience

    Curtis check out weld porn on Facebook I thought I was pretty good on the tig till I went on there
    my HJ sedan rebuild http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...ull-build.html

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  15. #60
    casual poster Ethan.D's Avatar
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    Very nice work man! Looking forward to seeing the finished product! You really had some nice surprises under that nice paint! haha At least it will keep you well and truly busy now!

    I use tig, mig and stick (stick only for heavy stuff). I find it really depends on the work piece, surface treatments, and i guess the finish required. I use tig for body, detailed parts and like Curtis says for penetration. You can really control your weld pool with tig. And like hz_350 says you really need to have everything clean for the tig process.

    And then i use flux core wire for my mig, i use this only on body work and its amazing haha

    So i guess you need both! nothing wrong with having to many tools!

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