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  1. #31
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    9 inch eat your heart out! This bad boy is 10.25!

    Man its heavy!





    There is about 2mm between leaf and rear of the drum which i can live with, but theres about 5mm between the rim and leaf which is a bit close, with a tyre would likely rub... So ill look at getting the offset chanced on the inner rim, shouldn't bother the outer as there is a good 2 inches between them

  2. #32
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    Got the mounts welded on my diff, sat it in place and was overcome by a sense of accomplishment. Then my heart sank....

    I thought i was really clever with the backing plate being 2mm from the leaf, ofcourse i forgot that i have to put a ubolt in there

    Not really sure where to go from here, my thoughts are

    1) Mono leaf (know nothing about these, but i could get the ubolt plate under one leaf and the ubolt down the recess in the drum, just not the 6 or so the tonner has)

    2) Disc brake conversion (should free up some space)

    3) 4 link (not really looking for a 2000 dollar solution...)

    Suggestions please?

  3. #33
    Do you ever leave? hz_350's Avatar
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    Why dont you just use a 10 bolt what motor are you using
    my HJ sedan rebuild http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...ull-build.html

    All the comfort of a Pogo Stick, with the road holding capabilities of an Office Chair and the safety of a Russian risk assessment!

  4. #34
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    ls2, using this cos i want a dually rear, just for something different

  5. #35
    Do you ever leave? hz_350's Avatar
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    offset the leaves an inch??
    my HJ sedan rebuild http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...ull-build.html

    All the comfort of a Pogo Stick, with the road holding capabilities of an Office Chair and the safety of a Russian risk assessment!

  6. #36
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    can that be done without narrowing the chassis?

  7. #37
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    yes fabricate new brackets & move them inboard the desired distance, BUt I suspect that you will run into clearance issues with the tyres/chassis. you may be able to run wheel spacers to overcome this, or different wheels

  8. #38
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    yeah the tyres would be close to the chassis.... i just emailed my engineer about this Workshop Projects about half way down the page, they cut the tonner chassis rail diagonally behind the cab and then reweld it on the inside, would move the leaves inboard and the chassis rail... Dont know if it would be legal though heh

  9. #39
    Part of the furniture minus-monaro's Avatar
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    That would likely cost a lot more than a four-link. What about putting extra crossmembers into the chassis and building boxes for the spring mounts into them (immediately inside and braced onto the main rails)?
    King of the Unfinished Project

  10. #40
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    Spoke to my engineer again, this is where we ended up: I cant cut the chassis right through, but i can make some pie cuts to narrow it, so this is what ill be doing



    The red cut lines were just drawn on rough, and i realised one is aft of the leaf mount bit it will ofcourse be infront.

    He said the welding up the cuts and welding on fish plates had to be done by a DLI qualified welder which is fair enough... Just wondering how elaborate im going to go making a jig...

  11. #41
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    Im waiting for the welder to come do my chassis.

    In the meantime i decided to repair the rusted cab mounts on the HZ chassis, in doing so i found a problem! I put the rail which im using to mate the cab to the chassis on to make sure i was welding the plate just right and it didn't line up... You can see the bolt hanging



    Hmmmmmm, so i got my tape measure out, did some measurements on the old chassis, and some more on the new chassis, and some more again on my HQ tonner daily.... Turns out the old chassis i had must have been a HX ute chassis, not a tonner chassis, as the wheelbase was 6 inches shorter.... It seems that the middle crossmember is about 3-4 inches further back on the ute... And my cab was hard up against this to get the Inter guards wheel arches central with the tonner hub.... Doh!!



    The blue bit of RHS is what the back of the cab mounts onto, so im left with a few choices... I either put a cutout into the back of the cab and shuffle it back, or since the wheel arches are massive (3-4 inches longer than HQ ones on my daily) I might move the front of the wheel arch rearward 3-4 inches. Im leaning towards modifying the guard since i was probably going to have to do that anyway. However it might all be governed by the angle of the steering column in the two positions...

    Anyway i did the rust repairs haha, completed one job, found a bigger one....


  12. #42
    Yes, the Kingswood. HQforme's Avatar
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    This is a killer project mate. Shame about the setbacks but you've got the attitude and ability to counter them.
    EFN 202 : knowledge is (horse)power!

  13. #43
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    Cheers!

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJS304 View Post
    The reason you're warping panels is because you're putting waaaay too much filler metal into the welds. Turn the amps down and reduce wire feed speed. It's only 1mm metal at most, penetration won't be an issue. And weld small sections at a time, then move somewhere else. You can see you're welding far too hot as some of the weld beads have bubbled.
    Grab some scrap sheet metal, butt it together and play with just how low you can go in amps and still get a great weld.
    will still warp and oilcan regardless, oxy hammer weld is the only way as with the mig, you are introducing foreign metal into the roof skin metal and it becomes so hard you cant work it later, but with the oxy, you can hammer it back up to where it should be because the weld is some and malable and doesnt get hard like a mig will

  15. #45
    Part of the furniture gareth12's Avatar
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    Yeah lesson learned on the roof, I love my MIG, but first to agree that its a butchers tool.... If i had my time again i would have got someone to oxy weld the strip in.

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