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Thread: LX Hatch

  1. #16
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pro068 View Post
    Suppose thats a problem living NZ. Doesnt anyone over there manufacture performance parts?
    Seems to be an issue sometimes, depends on the type of parts. I'm sure there are people that build stuff to order but of course that won't be any cheaper and I like doing as much as possible myself (and unfortunately I'm no fabricator). I tossed up between this kit and running standard diameter vented discs that DBA sell (an HQ disc turned down in diameter on a lathe can also be used apparently) with UC calipers and HZ pad carriers (for the extra width) but decided the extra cost was worth it in the long run.

    Quote Originally Posted by hjtunr View Post
    nz's into there ricers and rotax only cause there cheap az chips, usually if they cant get a rego or warrent they get parkd up and put on brix, they need mor tuff v8s. lxhatch i hope yur shown up all them evo's and sylines and soobies
    I dunno it seems everything is expensive these days. V8s still outnumber rotaries plenty around here

    Quote Originally Posted by COOPHT View Post
    Found that diff centre.
    Sell your and ship to Oz and get cash back for the brakes.

    160228489592 item number listing has finished.
    Thanks for the tip. I still can't believe that, he did a great job of marketing I guess. How can an LSD be rare when they came in almost every six cylinder ute HQ-WB? And that one was only the more common coarse spline!

  2. #17
    IN CUBES WE TRUST 1BADSS's Avatar
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    Good Mods Mate, I'm looking forward to following your progress.
    That is a sweet noise you got there man, I had you picked clear across the valley............



  3. #18
    Do you ever leave? WB5LTR's Avatar
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    noice!!!

  4. #19
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Hooked into the front brakes this morning. Dummy fitted the caliper brackets to see if they would fit at the front but not quite (fouling on tie rod end). Swapped the stub axles left to right and replaced the left lower ball joint which had a split rubber boot while I was at it.

    This pic shows how the Hoppers bracket works, you can see why it adds a bit to the track width:


    Due to the extra width the new discs stick out the old dust shields will still fit, but they are swapped left to right with the stub axles and need the clearance hole that goes around the lower ball joint enlarged toward what is now the rear (pencil marks are where I cut it):


    The adapter hub seems to be reasonably good quality. I had a minor problem with this being very slightly wider than the original Torana hub so I could only just get one half/side of the cotter pin in, but there is still no way it can come undone. Note new dust cap supplied with kit too:


    more in next post...
    Last edited by 76lxhatch; 21-07-2017 at 08:27 AM.

  5. #20
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Everything seems to line up and fit together well. You can see in this pic how the brake pads run just nicely in the right place on the disc:


    With the caliper body fitted - I'm wondering if I should have painted the silver pad carrier brackets black:


    Brake hose routing, this is a little tight around the caliper body at full lock (rear inward) but there isn't really any other option:


    Clearance on suspension components looks like it should be fine, with the exception of the rubber bump stop on the bottom arm which may need modifying or possibly removing altogether.

    So far I have only installed the right hand side. The left hand stub axle is on, waiting for the dust shield hole to be modified and then fit the hub and brake assembly. Maybe tomorrow if I can be bothered, no hurry yet as the diff is still at least two weeks away.
    Last edited by 76lxhatch; 21-07-2017 at 08:28 AM.

  6. #21
    Searching For More Cubes AGGRO's Avatar
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    good progress mate. The Hoppers kit is very easy to install and all goes together well.

  7. #22
    been here .......too long Smitty2's Avatar
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    ..good report
    keep 'em coming


    cheers

    Smitty

  8. #23
    my shoulder is watching U CK_318's Avatar
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    very noice mate, really informative as well, good stuff

  9. #24
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Assembled the left hand side brake today, no dramas:


    Getting a bit depressing not being able to drive it so I cranked it up to get the enthusiasm going a bit - the exhaust is off at the moment so that worked a treat
    Last edited by 76lxhatch; 21-07-2017 at 08:28 AM.

  10. #25
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Ever since someone pointed out to me that it had the wrong flares on the back its been steadily annoying me more and more. So, I finally gave in and now the credit card is hurting but I have a new pair of fibreglass flares suited to the hatch.

    The white one on top is the old one, the black one is the new one. You can see how the new one extends all the way down at the front.


    Only problem is, the new flares are too tight around the wheel arch, I can only guess that they were removed from the mold too soon and hung up or something. And I bought the expensive Rare Spares ones too, thinking that they would at least be reasonable quality! Notice how the new flare actually pinches the tyre, this is the same both sides


    The old ones don't do this


    The worst part is at the rear, it has quite a bit of extra curve in the thick part and the bottom of it is far from level. Does anyone have much experience with fitting fibreglass pieces like this? Do you reckon they will uncurl with the proper treatment? I'm a little reluctant to send them back as they'll probably only send me another set the same at my expense, and if I can make them fit OK they'll be fine (no-one else here sells them for the hatches).
    Last edited by 76lxhatch; 21-07-2017 at 08:29 AM.

  11. #26
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Did some head scratching on the flares and finally decided I can make them fit, just barely. A lot of careful stretching (and more holes in the body work ), and I just had to ignore the angle of the bottom/rear piece in the end, you can't see it unless under the car anyway.

    Both sides test fitted and satisfactory - I'll leave them on there for a bit and maybe heat them a little occasionally so they hopefully stay the shape I want them. A bit of paint patching up is required, especially on the drivers side where the old flare wasn't on right. Then paint and add the rubber strip.
    Last edited by 76lxhatch; 21-07-2017 at 08:29 AM.

  12. #27
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    Well, so much for the diff. Finally got a phone call last Friday (4 weeks late) to say it was ready, and they wanted to charge me $1,500 more than the maximum price agreed up front! He talked about removing the LSD and dropping his hourly rate to make it work but I still couldn't get any commitment out of him. After no contact for the best part of a week I sent an email yesterday telling them to either deliver as agreed by the end of next week or I'd be going elsewhere. Still haven't heard from them but look what turned up on the doorstep this morning:



    The remains of the donor diffs I sent them for the conversion. None of it is any use any more, not sure why they even bothered sending it back. At least I didn't hand over any money, so all it has cost me is the value of these two ruined diffs and of course the wasted two months.
    Last edited by 76lxhatch; 21-07-2017 at 08:29 AM.

  13. #28
    Old Cars have soul. COOPHT's Avatar
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    Gees LX that’s a bit ruff upping the price by $1500. Good move on the no $$ up front. I never do that for this reason.

    For that sort of $$ you could have one done in OZ and sent back me thinks.

    So what’s the diff plan now ?.

  14. #29
    make lifts go up n down leprkorn's Avatar
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    nice looking brake setup.

    how's the short shifter going? i've fitted mine, but i haven't bleed the brakes yet, so haven't tested it out yet.....but soon.....
    'starwars2

  15. #30
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    OK despite the delays things are starting to move forward again... slowly. I have acquired another R31 diff second hand and stripped the housing and removed the mounts I don't want. Also got hold of an XR6 Falcon diff for the LSD centre and 3.45 ratio in excellent condition, and another Banjo (maybe 2) for the mounts. I have half a dozen diffs in various states in my shed now! Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I'll sort out an engineer to weld the mounts on the Borg Warner and fill/re-drill the axle flanges to Commodore stud pattern. Brake discs will be brand new DBA slotted blanks so they can be drilled to Commodore pattern too.

    Aside from the rear drive shaft uni/flange, everything else I'm going to build the rest of the diff myself. Hand brake only requires minor mods to move the brackets on the car back a bit and use the Skyline cables attached to a shortened ute front cable (basically same as factory setup). Some tidying up to do with the guards and flares, some minor custom brake line work and with a bit of luck it'll be back on the road again! I want it done by Sep for a run so fingers crossed. Going to buy some wheels very soon.

    Coop I was almost considering getting something done over your side of the pond at one stage with all the rip off merchants around here, freight is very expensive at present though and I don't like things being so far away out of my control. I quite often buy stuff direct from Oz though as the service seems to be better!

    Leprkorn its been a while since I drove it but I was quite impressed with the shifter. Still not 100% happy with the box though, I think I'm gonna save my pennies and fill it with Redline MT oil (around $90 worth here!) when I put everything back together and see if that helps the shift, I've heard very good things about it.

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