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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winston! View Post
    Probably, but the budget isn't there at present. The rebuild was already an unexpected cost.
    do some shopping on the net you can save a bit I did a similar thing but with my 308 it was cheeper to buy scat rods then using vn rods as I didn't have them also scorpion do a cheep set of rockers. Look at jegs summit doug Herbert performance its the fun part I built my solid roller 308 for just on $5500

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuf72 View Post
    do some shopping on the net you can save a bit I did a similar thing but with my 308 it was cheeper to buy scat rods then using vn rods as I didn't have them also scorpion do a cheep set of rockers. Look at jegs summit doug Herbert performance its the fun part I built my solid roller 308 for just on $5500
    Pretty much everything I've purchased so far has been from vpw, engine master, pp&r and summit, I've also bought some things that probably aren't necessary like a new alternator and polished intake bolts. I definitely don't do enough price matching though.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winston! View Post
    Pretty much everything I've purchased so far has been from vpw, engine master, pp&r and summit, I've also bought some things that probably aren't necessary like a new alternator and polished intake bolts. I definitely don't do enough price matching though.
    yeah jeggs will price match also I know a guy who gets 1 head sent at a time to get away from the import tax hahah sounds like a good project what model val is it?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuf72 View Post
    yeah jeggs will price match also I know a guy who gets 1 head sent at a time to get away from the import tax hahah sounds like a good project what model val is it?
    Sneaky sneak haha. I'll compare roller rockers later tonight. It's a VF VIP 👍 not bad for a first car, well technically it was a Volvo 850 that my dad bought for my sister and I to drive when we got our provisional licence. The valiant was the first car I bought personally. And to think I was going to buy a wrx before my boss at the time helped find the valiant.

  5. #35
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    uploadfromtaptalk1435029052815.jpg

    Can't seem to upload the pics I've just taken of the car but this is it.

  6. #36
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    that a clean ride have a look at the scorpion site I think I paid around 180 usd for a set of roller rockers for my 308 . I almost bought a vip for my first car but ended iup with the hq coupe that was parked around the corner

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuf72 View Post
    that a clean ride have a look at the scorpion site I think I paid around 180 usd for a set of roller rockers for my 308 . I almost bought a vip for my first car but ended iup with the hq coupe that was parked around the corner
    It has its issues, rust, chassis rail repair, but that's a job for another time. HQ is a nice first car.

  8. #38
    casual poster Charger408's Avatar
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    Nice looking VIP.

    A few suggestions if your interested

    1. Use the local suppliers for items you need urgently. The U.S. Suppliers like Jeggs and summit will be cheaper. Have a look at others like Rock Auto, and in particular Hughes engines (mopar only with a number of items they specifically make for LA engines). Order in lots under $1000 including freight to avoid duties.
    2. 318 is a good engine - if you are getting a re-build on the bottom seriously consider the stroker kit for them. 390 cubes makes a dramatic difference
    3. J heads will work fine with a bit of flow work until you can afford a top end upgrade. (Which the engine won't need to come out for.
    4. Search for some 273 adjustable rockers -a lot cheaper than a new set of aftermarket ones.
    5. Chassis rail rust at the steering box is very common. Temp fix with Hemi Performance sleeve. Proper fix requires a new section to be made and welded in. Cracked chassis rail is roadworthy fail item.
    6. Try posting up some items you need on some of the Facebook Valiant parts pages - you'd be surprised what you will get.

    Paul was 100% correct when he questioned the $3,000 extra for a Chrysler engine - absolutely no reason to be this much more at all. Machining costs and assembly time are roughly the same. Careful sourcing of parts will bring them much closer to the ford / Holden guys.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger408 View Post
    Nice looking VIP.

    A few suggestions if your interested

    1. Use the local suppliers for items you need urgently. The U.S. Suppliers like Jeggs and summit will be cheaper. Have a look at others like Rock Auto, and in particular Hughes engines (mopar only with a number of items they specifically make for LA engines). Order in lots under $1000 including freight to avoid duties.
    2. 318 is a good engine - if you are getting a re-build on the bottom seriously consider the stroker kit for them. 390 cubes makes a dramatic difference
    3. J heads will work fine with a bit of flow work until you can afford a top end upgrade. (Which the engine won't need to come out for.
    4. Search for some 273 adjustable rockers -a lot cheaper than a new set of aftermarket ones.
    5. Chassis rail rust at the steering box is very common. Temp fix with Hemi Performance sleeve. Proper fix requires a new section to be made and welded in. Cracked chassis rail is roadworthy fail item.
    6. Try posting up some items you need on some of the Facebook Valiant parts pages - you'd be surprised what you will get.

    Paul was 100% correct when he questioned the $3,000 extra for a Chrysler engine - absolutely no reason to be this much more at all. Machining costs and assembly time are roughly the same. Careful sourcing of parts will bring them much closer to the ford / Holden guys.
    Thanks for the tips! I've found stuff from summit arrives sooner than some items from Australia. Engine master have been most reliable and I've received items next day. I did think about a stroker kit but I'm happy with a mild 318. So the adjustable 273 rockers are they rollers? If not which roller rocker set would you recommend? Aftermarket heads can come at a later date but it's probably not necessary.

    The chassis rail was repaired at some stage in the cars life. When I get to restoring the rest of the car is when I'll fab new chassis rails.

    It was my misunderstanding but I can see how the price of a build can quickly escalate. I definitely could've gotten parts I've already purchased cheaper if I looked around more than I did.

  10. #40
    casual poster Charger408's Avatar
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    I suggested the 273 rockers as they give you most of the benefits for a mild build without the cost. The 273 rockers aren't roller type ones - but for a mild 318 build they will give you the advantages of adjustability and OEM strength without the cost of a new roller rocker set. For a roller rocker set I use the Hughes 1.6 ratio roller rockers - very high quality with correct alignment for our cylinder heads. If you go these make sure to get the shim kit to allow final adjustments when fitting. Big difference between price of 273 rockers ($150 or so) and Hughes ones (just under $800 landed in AUS)

    Yep - most of the bigger US suppliers will have stuff to your door within a week and usually quicker. Engine master are good but more expensive than US. Try outlaw speed shop in SA as well for another good local supplier. Be very very careful with Hemi Performance.

    Are you giving the engine bay a tidy-up while the teen is out being fixed? Best chance you'll ever get for a clean up and change a few things like the steering rag (the coupling at the steering box / shaft) which is cheap and so easy to access while engine is out and the biggest pain ever when the engine is back in. Check play in the steering box as well - these are adjustable and again done more easily with the engine out of the way.

  11. #41
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    I'll definitely look into the 273 rockers I was looking at the Hughes roller kit, looks very nice. I used to buy from hemi performance but I got so much misinformation from them regarding the radiator upgrade installation, the bloke I talked to basically made me feel like a dickhead. I'll have a look at outlaw speed shop.

    I considered painting the engine bay but to me it seems like a waste of time if it's just going to get stripped in a couple of years plus it's not the worst I've seen. I have cleaned up a few bits though (master cylinder, wiper motor, relay) I have a reconditioned steering box on its way which will be great as the old one quite worn and leaky. I also bought a new steering rag as well as a front sway bar from pp&r.

  12. #42
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    Does anyone know what length throttle cable I'd need to suit the 4bbl carb? I'll be getting stainless braided lokar cable which come in 24",36" and 48".

    Thanks.

  13. #43
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    Hello!

    Been slack on the updates but nothing much has happened for a couple of months until now. Everyone has been incredibly busy (myself included) which is always a good thing. My engine builder has the engine block, heads and internals and he will check everything then start assembly.

    I've been meaning to install the reco steering box, wire the tach and replace the speedo but have had no time, hopefully next weekend after giving some tig welding lessons at work. I've been thinking about the transmission too, if the 904 needs work would it be more cost effective getting a tci 727 from Elko or having the 904 reconditioned and a shift kit installed?

  14. #44
    casual poster Charger408's Avatar
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    Was the 904 playing up? If not bolt it back up and get a good service /shift kit and you'll be sweet. The 727 is a tough gearbox and would be total overkill for a mild 318. You'll pay a penalty in weight moving to one - you'll also need a new tailshaft as they are different lengths and have totally different yokes.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger408 View Post
    Was the 904 playing up? If not bolt it back up and get a good service /shift kit and you'll be sweet. The 727 is a tough gearbox and would be total overkill for a mild 318. You'll pay a penalty in weight moving to one - you'll also need a new tailshaft as they are different lengths and have totally different yokes.
    The 904 was a little rough on the gear changes and the oil pump was whining pretty bad. I thought id check if the 727 was a feasible option, which it would be if i decide on power add ons in a couple of years. Id probably get a different valiant for that kind of fun though, the vip will be the cruiser. Thanks for the advice👍👍

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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