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  1. #31
    Do you ever leave? HPE PETE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 46Crab View Post
    Pete, great work on this build.

    I’ll be keen to see how much you have to do to end up with decent flow, valve job etc (hours and cost wise) with those cheap E Street heads, compared to a better level of aftermarket alloy head requiring less hours to achieve the same/similar results as a cost/benefit analysis.

    Thanks
    to be honest you would prob be better off just buying a better head to start with, unless you can do atleast the port work yourself............the only reason im going down this path is cause i already have the heads and i can do the work for low cost, this work alone including port work, cutting seats, milling heads for CR, back cutting valves setting up springs and assembly is prob like $1500- $2000 on top of the cost of the heads and parts. but the result would be better than a set of as cast heads with no finish work

  2. #32
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    I've heard a few stories about poor valve sealing on stock seats on these type of heads, I don't suppose you would want to blue a stock valve seat and put a valve in it to see how well it seats/seals?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by HPE PETE View Post
    to be honest you would prob be better off just buying a better head to start with, unless you can do atleast the port work yourself............the only reason im going down this path is cause i already have the heads and i can do the work for low cost, this work alone including port work, cutting seats, milling heads for CR, back cutting valves setting up springs and assembly is prob like $1500- $2000 on top of the cost of the heads and parts. but the result would be better than a set of as cast heads with no finish work
    Thanks for that Pete, I was actually thinking the exact same and thought there must be at least $1500-1700 in labour and then you need at least some decent springs, retainers, locks even if you decided to use the valves that they come with (unless you got them bare.
    Appreciate the details your sharing on this build. Thanks again.

  4. #34
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    Those mid to 3/4 lift gains are insane! I was always of the opinion that air velocity was always a good thing for given flow. When you say you would slow it down for max power why is that? Is it more to do with conforming air flow past the valve? Air releasing its hold on the short side etc?

  5. #35
    casual poster Madogg's Avatar
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    465 @ 5200 torque
    530 @6500 HP
    Thatís my prediction.
    If a backyard engine builder was putting it together itíd maybe go 470-480hp.
    If a half decent machinist was doing it itíd be 490-510.
    With attention to detail (particularly in the heads/manifold) it has to go 530 I reckon.
    Unless the heads are way worse than I realise.
    Last edited by Madogg; 19-04-2018 at 06:09 PM.

  6. #36
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    Pete, our of curiosity did you end up finishing this small block turn off and churning out some numbers on the dyno?

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