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Thread: LS1 Questions.

  1. #1
    casual poster porkrot's Avatar
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    Default LS1 Questions.

    Hi all, So recently i got a low k's LS1 for my project 120000ish and i want to do some work to it before i install it. I have ordered a cam, lifters, dual springs and push rods but now i need to know where to spend the next few grand to get the most out of my money. the cam specs are below.So i need a stall converter 2400 roughly but what else should i be doing ? Should i do the intake and throttle body? should i pay 1k cash to have the heads ported and polished. If i do the heads i can probably get a cheaper intake and a larger TB but thats really stretching it. Where is the money going to be best spent for the power. lets say 2.5K total after the cam.
    Thanks guys.

    cam.png
    Last edited by porkrot; 01-11-2017 at 02:03 PM.

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    casual poster porkrot's Avatar
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    does that pic work for you guys ?

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    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Yeah picture works if I click on it...

    You'd be better of with a stall of 3500 odd and some 3.5-3.9 gear.. Have you got extractors and a good exhaust system? Thats where I'd put my money.

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    casual poster porkrot's Avatar
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    Ive got 4:11 in the diff and the exhaust isnt fitted yet but yes it will be extractors and dual 2.5. 3500 stall seems pretty big

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    Senior Member cactus's Avatar
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    ../
    Last edited by cactus; 01-11-2017 at 05:07 PM.

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    Senior Member cactus's Avatar
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    I'd spend it on cyl. heads and tune. At least 3500 rpm stall. Beef up the 4L60 if that's what you're running?
    Last edited by cactus; 02-11-2017 at 12:08 PM.

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    casual poster porkrot's Avatar
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    Beef it up with a shift kit?

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    Part of the furniture gtrboyy's Avatar
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    With a cam 3500rpm stally would be good starting point & atleast get heads shaved to get comp increased or even ported if budget goes that far with good tune.

    Probably need more than shift kit if you really want to get up with grumpy 280rwkw

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    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by porkrot View Post
    3500 stall seems pretty big
    Its not, I have 3800 and it could go more....

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulzig View Post
    Its not, I have 3800 and it could go more....
    I have a 3500 and hate it with a passion, I will be changing to around 2500rpm converter

    The biggest question is: what do you want to do with it?
    Is it mainly street with some drag racing or
    street and hillclimbing
    I hardly drive mine any more but do as many hillclimbs as I can. I was convinced to try a bigger converter, thankfully it was lent to me.
    I have no traction off the line anyway, and when you come out of a slow corner in second gear it feels just like you have fanned the clutch if it is under 3500, which would be great for drifting, but terrible for hillclimbing. I also dont like the disconnected feeling between throttle and rear wheels.

    As to your other questions.
    Obviously you will need a good tune. This is the most important thing, but do it after your other mods
    do you have a horsepower figure in mind? Or a time card or drivability.

    I am not a fan of that cam with stock 241 heads, I think you would be better with 224-228.
    However when it comes to spending the extra cash, I would get a small port job done and 20-30 thou off the heads'
    The 241 heads only flow about 227cfm @ 28 inches, which should be enough to make 450 -60 hp at the flywheel if everything else is right.

    if you can get a set of 243 heads they flow enough to make about 60 more HP. they also have a smaller and better shaped chamber.

    With either a moderate port or 243's with a cam in the low 230's should get you around 500 flywheel Hp or a touch better.
    At this horsepower level the stock LS6 manifold (on all ls1 from vx onward) and stock throttle body will be fine. They don't seem to be much of a restriction below 265cfm. Stay away from the cheap manifolds on ebay, they are a waste of money.

    All this is just my opinion and you may get many other opinions

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    Quote Originally Posted by wonk123 View Post
    I have a 3500 and hate it with a passion, I will be changing to around 2500rpm converter

    The biggest question is: what do you want to do with it?
    Is it mainly street with some drag racing or
    street and hillclimbing
    I hardly drive mine any more but do as many hillclimbs as I can. I was convinced to try a bigger converter, thankfully it was lent to me.
    I have no traction off the line anyway, and when you come out of a slow corner in second gear it feels just like you have fanned the clutch if it is under 3500, which would be great for drifting, but terrible for hillclimbing. I also dont like the disconnected feeling between throttle and rear wheels.

    As to your other questions.
    Obviously you will need a good tune. This is the most important thing, but do it after your other mods
    do you have a horsepower figure in mind? Or a time card or drivability.

    I am not a fan of that cam with stock 241 heads, I think you would be better with 224-228.
    However when it comes to spending the extra cash, I would get a small port job done and 20-30 thou off the heads'
    The 241 heads only flow about 227cfm @ 28 inches, which should be enough to make 450 -60 hp at the flywheel if everything else is right.

    if you can get a set of 243 heads they flow enough to make about 60 more HP. they also have a smaller and better shaped chamber.

    With either a moderate port or 243's with a cam in the low 230's should get you around 500 flywheel Hp or a touch better.
    At this horsepower level the stock LS6 manifold (on all ls1 from vx onward) and stock throttle body will be fine. They don't seem to be much of a restriction below 265cfm. Stay away from the cheap manifolds on ebay, they are a waste of money.

    All this is just my opinion and you may get many other opinions
    You should be using the converter clutch to suit your needs, maybe look at getting someone to try a Euro style strategy in the computer for the converter clutch.
    If you lift your foot after heavy throttle the converter clutch will stay on and give engine braking into the next corner, will also downshift at higher speeds in this mode.
    They normally maintain this strategy until you start driving with even throttle for a short period and then revert back to economy mode.

    Take an automatic Euro shit box for a drive on one of your hill courses and you'll see what I mean.

    I don't think the converter is your problem, just needs some sorting out with the program and it should be a lot better.

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