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  1. #1
    Do you ever leave? HPE PETE's Avatar
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    Default 383 street engine

    doing a 383 for a HQ monaro street car its more of a cruiser but may see occasional 1/4 mile outings, owner wants 11's if he takes it to the track, low maintenance so we are going HYD roller, pump fuel, 3.55 diff ratio converter will be matched to cam specs, no hole in the bonnet so manifold height has to stay reasonably low, around 500HP is the goal

    the reason i am showing this build is so people can see some of the extra details that go in to a custom built engine when comparing to a mass produced crate engine from the states..

    we were going to consider a new GM block for this build but when i pulled the engine down i discovered this block was in exceptionally good condition, STD bore 4 bolt main and next to no scale what so ever in the water jacket, so we had a nice foundation to start with

    we started off with a list of parts for a basic combo to start with and a list of options they too choose from so they can tailor the engine around their HP level and budget. we are not trying to break any records we just want a nice strong street engine with the focus on reliability and good power with a muscle car sound.

    basic engine details are

    MAHLE forged flat top pistons
    SCAT 9000 series internal balance nodular iron crank
    SCAT 6 inch I beam conrods with bronze bushed small end
    custom grind COMP HYD roller...236/242 624/572 lift with 1.6 rockers 107LSA, we are limited to duration as the owner wants 3500-4000 stall max so we tightened LSA as he demanded a choppy idle but driving style demands punchy mid range torque
    AFR210cc cylinder heads which give combo some room to grow down the track, one option was to deck out a set of DART or BRODIX heads with custom porting but the AFR's were cheaper and will make the power required.
    victor jr intake
    10.8 - 11:1 comp ratio


    block is stripped removed of all threaded plugs and welch plugs, sonic tested, acid bathed, bored 30 over torque plate honed, main tunnel line honed, dummy assembled to measure deck ht then deck squared to give us a deck height of .002 down the bore, conrod gudgion bores honed for correct pin fit, rotator balanced etc etc...

    heres some pics of the build so far, ATM i only get 1 to 1.5 days a week in the engine room building engines so the build will take a few more weeks nearly all the machining and prep work is done.

    here a few shots

    1st thing we do is detail the block

    we remove the dags in the valley not full polished but smooth, lifter bores are chamfered on both sides and the bottom of the bores are chamfered, sharp edges here scrape oil off the lifters and pistons so detailing these areas makes these components live longer and less crap with end up in your sump during break in.








    we also knock some of the casting dags off the timing case area





    then we tap the block for threaded plugs in the galley's to get rid of those stupid welch plugs, this is to remove any chance of a welch plug popping out but it also makes it easier for cleaning the block in the future, we remove every plug in the block so the gallerys can be completely cleaned from any gunk that is left over from machining, if you dont do this then you will have crap go through a brand new engine from start up..there is a small plug under the rear main cap that diverts oil to the filter housing, you have to remove this so you can brush and clean the gallery out properly, its hard to see it so a lot of people over look removing it, if its not removed crap will sit on the other side.




    then we do minor work to the oil system, this helps cut pressure drop through the system starting at the main cap wich is radiused and polished for better flow




    then move on to the filter housing we radius the holes for better flow and remove all casting dags, we also polish the gallery further aiding oil flow





    Last edited by HPE PETE; 20-10-2012 at 01:31 AM.

  2. #2
    Do you ever leave? Soop's Avatar
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    Love threads like these, thanks Pete!

    Have no time for penis enthusiasts who are full of opinions and no real clue.

  3. #3
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    good to see that you don't consider a steel crank mandatory at these HP levels.

  4. #4
    casual poster SICKHG's Avatar
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    Look forward to watching this one.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by desoto30 View Post
    good to see that you don't consider a steel crank mandatory at these HP levels.
    I ran one of these scat steel nod crank in my last motor believing it was a steel crank so i leant on and never miss a beat. That motor runs a good 400 atw natural and made 538 on the bottle atw.. im only running a steel one in my new motorim building as its a blown application and will be giving it a hard time hopefully...

  6. #6
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    most would be surprised at what a cast crank will endure. one thing parts won't endure is bad tuneup

  7. #7
    casual poster A PSYCHO's Avatar
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    subscribed.

    No such thing as too much detail, or too many pics either...

  8. #8
    Do you ever leave? HPE PETE's Avatar
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    thats correct guys, the 9000 series will put up with a pretty good beating, the steel crank was on the list of options for around an extra $550-$600 same with the H beam, the customer asks me do i really need it for a 475-500HP combo, we have put them through a lot more than this in a holden engine, basicly the steel crank and H beam put the build cost up by about an extra $1000....but this car wont see the need for it.

  9. #9
    Do you ever leave? HPE PETE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A PSYCHO View Post
    or too many pics either...
    LOL....by now you guys can tell i dont mind taking a few pics, plenty more to come....but 1st i gota do some work

  10. #10
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Should be a nice 500HP+ engine .......

  11. #11
    Do you ever leave? TRIKHQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulzig View Post
    Should be a nice 500HP+ engine .......
    Agree comfortable 500+HP engine. Lot of work for a cruiser engine though Pete, polished valley, radiused oil supply holes etc that won't see more than 6400 for peak power. Besides that it is great to see this stuff, teaching me a few things !!!

    Mario

  12. #12
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    I can see you picked the cam lobes not the tech guys at comp .....

  13. #13
    Senior Member JCY 74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulzig View Post
    I can see you picked the cam lobes not the tech guys at comp .....
    Lol was waiting for that...

  14. #14
    Do you ever leave? paulzig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCY 74 View Post
    Lol was waiting for that...
    Thats good, not bad .....

    On a sidenote, dont your customers whinge about how much it costs to do all the little extra touches?

  15. #15
    Do you ever leave? HPE PETE's Avatar
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    Because its a full engine build we include some of prep work at a discount, i spent about 4hours detailing the block but only charged 2 hours, if you just bought me a block on its own i have to charge by the hour, may be a little over the top for what it is but i like to make sure the bearings get a good supply of oil we are only using a std vol pump..

    Mario i dont think there would be much i could teach you when it comes to AFR headed small blocks...

    Some may say the 210 is too big for this application but i believe we still need good flowing heads to make good ve at peak torque , remember a ls1 head is 205cc stock, we will flow these heads before they go back together after a spring swap

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