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  1. #1
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    Default wb ute drum brakes and handbrake adjustment

    When adjusting rear brakes on the Holden wb ute how much contact (if any) should there be between the shoe and the drum?

    I adjusted my rear brakes to a point where there was no rubbing between the shoe and drum. When braking the pedal travel was good but when I adjusted the handbrake cable I had to use all the adjustment thread for the handbrake to work. Do I need to adjust the brakes more or could there be other reasons like the handbrake cable has stretched too much?

    Cheers
    Anders

  2. #2
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    No rubbing at all may be a bit on the loose side. When adjusting by feel I find it best to have a wheel on, although makes it a little more difficult to access things. Adjust it tighter until you have difficulty turning the wheel by hand, then back off a little to the point where its not too hard to turn (but you may still hear/feel a little rubbing). The most important thing is to make sure both sides are the same.

    If it still has the self-adjusters make sure they're set up right too, it will eventually adjust itself up (a few stops in reverse can help speed the process up). If you never carry much you may find that removing the self adjusters and running the adjustment slightly loose helps avoid the rears locking first, the utes didn't get the under-tray proportioning valve like the tonners.

    Back the park brake adjustment off before adjusting at the drums so it doesn't interfere, and re-do that again afterward. If you're happy with everything and the park brake is actually working, I wouldn't worry about it being at one extreme of adjustment - if it works, it works.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply and info. That makes sense.

    I could not figure out why the adjuster had to be wound so far in but overnight I think I've figure out what's happened. Awhile back I have a vibration in the car that mechanics could not figure out (or couldn't be bother to figure out), my transmission mechanic suggested putting a softer mount on the T700, which he did. Because it was softer the trans sat lower so he put a steel plate underneath the box to make it sit at the original height. Some time later I had some work done on the car and the mechanic pulled the plate out. When I picked up the car there was a strange noise which was the handbrake cable rubbing on the tailshaft. It was 5 oclock so the mechanic quickly jammed some shocker rubbers around the rods the hold the cable it place so that the cable cleared the tailshaft. I still had the original mount and was going to put it back in but obviously left it too late and the intermediate section of the handbrake cable has stretched. That's my theory of what's happened.

    I can buy a intermediate cable (around $50) or I could reduce the intermediate cable section length by packing the cable out where the joiner is between this cable and the section that connects to brakes. Maybe something like a slotted nut to fit over the cable and sit between the ball end of the cable and joiner end - what do you think about that idea?

  4. #4
    Sure why not? 76lxhatch's Avatar
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    If the cable has actually stretched so far that its causing you problems it could be damaged and the $50 might be well spent to replace it, but sounds a little odd. Double-check the hooks that the cable routes through around the sides are still OK and they haven't torn into their mounting holes too.

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