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Thread: HQ Caliper clearance issue
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10-01-2017, 08:41 PM #1
HQ Caliper clearance issue
G'day guys, has anybody had issues with HQ PBR cast iron calipers touching the upper A arms in a HK kingswood. HQ stub axle, rotors and calipers.
Something is a miss and it is driving me nuts, any assistance greatly appreciated. Cheers MarkBlow the bolts on the banjo!
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10-01-2017, 09:23 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
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- Sometimes Melbourne
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Yes, cant remember what we did to get around it but do remember we ended up using a hoppers kit along the way which spaced the calipers.
We wanted to narrow the track a little.
We may have used alloy calipers off a WB in the end.
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10-01-2017, 09:54 PM #3
Ok cheers mate.
Blow the bolts on the banjo!
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11-01-2017, 08:40 AM #4
I vaguely remember helping a mate do a HQ brake conversion on a HG. I've got a feeling we swapped the stub axles side to side for that reason. On that car we used the HG stub axles.
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11-01-2017, 11:04 PM #5
If I swap the stub axles from where they are now the callipers will be at the rear, I'm sure they're meant to be at the front. I'm considering grinding a bit off the top of the caliper and a bit off the upper wishbone. Anybody done this?
Blow the bolts on the banjo!
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11-01-2017, 11:12 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Childers Qld
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- 4,022
front or rear that is a position that matters not,,,, Do they fit there? that's what matters.
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12-01-2017, 08:36 AM #7
Desoto when I turn the wheel the top of the caliper touches the upper wishbone which then causes braking issues. I was thinking about 2-3mm off the caliper and 2mm off the wishbone.
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12-01-2017, 11:21 AM #8
It doesn't matter if the caliper is in front or behind as long as it clears everything.
Minor grinding shouldn't cause any major issues but if you can avoid grinding by moving the caliper that's the better way to go.
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12-01-2017, 07:35 PM #9
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- Jul 2009
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- Childers Qld
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- 4,022
That's it ,,, you grind if you have to,, not cause you want to
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12-01-2017, 08:19 PM #10
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- Jul 2009
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- Sometimes Melbourne
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- 2,183
My calipers are behind.
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12-01-2017, 08:22 PM #11
I fitted hz wb alloy girlocks to my hk and they touched the top control arm when i got near full lock, this caused a few scary moments in car parks because it pushed the piston back in. All i did was skim about 5mm off the lip of the control arm in the spot it hit, its never going to be a safety issue doing that much. I havent had any issues since.
A minute of thinking can save hours of doing
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17-01-2017, 07:52 PM #12
Yep I'm taking off a couple of mm at a time and rechecking the mark where it's scratching, Last touch up this arvo I reckon she's just about right.
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17-01-2017, 08:12 PM #13
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- NSW
- Posts
- 5,192
Can you put up a photo of how it all looks? Just wondering how the brake hose runs. I have kept a pair of L34 calipers for the HK GTS as they are essentially HQ but with a top entry hose.
Note that HK-WB are the same stubs, just a minor machining difference mid HX for the alloy calipers. The stubs are one of the few things on a HQ that have an even part number on the left side of the car as they were originally on the right side of a HK-HG and vice versa.
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18-01-2017, 06:38 PM #14
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Location
- Australind
- Posts
- 71
Whether they are front or back it doesn't matter, what does matter is that the bleeder is at the top. If you swap stub axles you need to make sure the calipers end up on which ever side that puts the bleeder at the top.
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18-01-2017, 07:00 PM #15
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