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  1. #1
    Part of the furniture hagget's Avatar
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    Default HQ Caliper clearance issue

    G'day guys, has anybody had issues with HQ PBR cast iron calipers touching the upper A arms in a HK kingswood. HQ stub axle, rotors and calipers.

    Something is a miss and it is driving me nuts, any assistance greatly appreciated. Cheers Mark
    Blow the bolts on the banjo!

  2. #2
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    Yes, cant remember what we did to get around it but do remember we ended up using a hoppers kit along the way which spaced the calipers.
    We wanted to narrow the track a little.
    We may have used alloy calipers off a WB in the end.

  3. #3
    Part of the furniture hagget's Avatar
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    Ok cheers mate.
    Blow the bolts on the banjo!

  4. #4
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    I vaguely remember helping a mate do a HQ brake conversion on a HG. I've got a feeling we swapped the stub axles side to side for that reason. On that car we used the HG stub axles.

  5. #5
    Part of the furniture hagget's Avatar
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    If I swap the stub axles from where they are now the callipers will be at the rear, I'm sure they're meant to be at the front. I'm considering grinding a bit off the top of the caliper and a bit off the upper wishbone. Anybody done this?
    Blow the bolts on the banjo!

  6. #6
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    front or rear that is a position that matters not,,,, Do they fit there? that's what matters.

  7. #7
    Part of the furniture hagget's Avatar
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    Desoto when I turn the wheel the top of the caliper touches the upper wishbone which then causes braking issues. I was thinking about 2-3mm off the caliper and 2mm off the wishbone.

  8. #8
    Not the Kingswood! hq308's Avatar
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    It doesn't matter if the caliper is in front or behind as long as it clears everything.

    Minor grinding shouldn't cause any major issues but if you can avoid grinding by moving the caliper that's the better way to go.

  9. #9
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    That's it ,,, you grind if you have to,, not cause you want to

  10. #10
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    My calipers are behind.

  11. #11
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    I fitted hz wb alloy girlocks to my hk and they touched the top control arm when i got near full lock, this caused a few scary moments in car parks because it pushed the piston back in. All i did was skim about 5mm off the lip of the control arm in the spot it hit, its never going to be a safety issue doing that much. I havent had any issues since.
    A minute of thinking can save hours of doing

  12. #12
    Part of the furniture hagget's Avatar
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    Yep I'm taking off a couple of mm at a time and rechecking the mark where it's scratching, Last touch up this arvo I reckon she's just about right.

  13. #13
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    Can you put up a photo of how it all looks? Just wondering how the brake hose runs. I have kept a pair of L34 calipers for the HK GTS as they are essentially HQ but with a top entry hose.

    Note that HK-WB are the same stubs, just a minor machining difference mid HX for the alloy calipers. The stubs are one of the few things on a HQ that have an even part number on the left side of the car as they were originally on the right side of a HK-HG and vice versa.

  14. #14
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    Whether they are front or back it doesn't matter, what does matter is that the bleeder is at the top. If you swap stub axles you need to make sure the calipers end up on which ever side that puts the bleeder at the top.

  15. #15
    Do you ever leave? Hqtunna4me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HK1837 View Post
    Can you put up a photo of how it all looks? Just wondering how the brake hose runs. I have kept a pair of L34 calipers for the HK GTS as they are essentially HQ but with a top entry hose.

    Note that HK-WB are the same stubs, just a minor machining difference mid HX for the alloy calipers. The stubs are one of the few things on a HQ that have an even part number on the left side of the car as they were originally on the right side of a HK-HG and vice versa.
    Man its been a long time since ive seen you comment on here HK1837
    A minute of thinking can save hours of doing

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