Just brought 350 Chev

[JetwasH]

Hiyas
I just brought a 350 Chev motor off a forum member here.
I have pulled the heads off and would like to hot this thing up.
Any suggestions on what to do first?
A mate has told me to get the heads ported and polished for starters.
Any suggestions from you seasoned chev builders would be great.
Kind Regards
Matt

[kiwiholdenman]

What part number are the heads mate ? Some of the sb heads are better scrap especially if you're after power (some smoggers come to mind), if you furnish us with the numbers we can tell if they are worthwhile candidates !

[TRIKHQ]

How hot do you want to go, maybe easier to put on heads ready to go.

I know where there are some AFR 180cc heads , very good condition, is asking $1500 for them complete. Ran 11.83 in a 55Chev , 10.5 comp and solid cam with them.

[kawaden]

How hot do you want to go, maybe easier to put on heads ready to go.

I know where there are some AFR 180cc heads , very good condition, is asking $1500 for them complete. Ran 11.83 in a 55Chev , 10.5 comp and solid cam with them.

good deal

[JetwasH]

What part number are the heads mate ? Some of the sb heads are better scrap especially if you're after power (some smoggers come to mind), if you furnish us with the numbers we can tell if they are worthwhile candidates !

I'm not sure, Next time i'm at the mechanic's i'll take a look, Cheers.

[JetwasH]

How hot do you want to go, maybe easier to put on heads ready to go.

I know where there are some AFR 180cc heads , very good condition, is asking $1500 for them complete. Ran 11.83 in a 55Chev , 10.5 comp and solid cam with them.

Would i need to change anything in the block to add these?
At the moment the mechanic is putting in new flat top pistons, bearing's, honing, changing cam, timing gear's and new mechanical fuel pump.
and a few other little thing's i can't remember.
I'm a little shocked at how much the bill is getting too already without even touching the heads!
I wanted to do a 383 stroker like the one ive been following on your thread Trik but it seems it would cost a fortune hahaha!
For now i think i might just go for what i can afford, then save my ass off ready for the stroker
As far as "how hot" i'd like to go, i'm after something that's a tough street car that still has driveability. By that i mean i'd like something that packs a punch but isnt a pain in the arse by breaking things all the time or hard to idle. I hope that makes sense?

[hz_350]

personally if i were goin to the trouble of puttin new pistons in, id bore it the next size up not just hone it

[KIQNKF]

I am assuming you have a limited budget, and therefore reliability is paramount. (Don't want to have to do it twice, or fix a broken one)

Issue #1- What pistons are you running (cast, Hyper's or forgies)peak RPM
issue #2- What rods / rod bolts do you have?? Peak RPM
Issue #3- What do you want to do with the engine/car combo?

You MUST use file back rings, and set the GAPS CORRECTLY you are simply throwing money over your shoulder with "box" rings. There is 20, almost "FREE" horsepower here.

You MUST - AS A MINUMUM if you are using standard chev gen1 con rods, REPLACE THE ROD BOLTS. this involves re-sizing the rods, usually you are better off to buy a set of eagles or scats. This will help a lot in the event of a missed gear, or a "slippery patch" (officer)

You really want to install THE CORRECT hydraulic roller camshaft. Roller camshafts are more expensive than flat tappet cams, but are substantially better for power, and I believe they are now, excellent for reliability. Cam choice is the most important thing you will do. pistons, rods + bolts, and to some extent, crank and mains, will decide your peak RPM levels. Heads are then purchased/ported to complement the camshaft. Make sure it's correctly "degreed" Comp cams 270HR is a good thing, especially with the 1.6:1 roller rockers, and a good timing chain set.

I personally, would NEVER build an engine without ARP head and main studs. They are pretty cheap, and go a long way to strengthening head gasket seal, and are cheap insurance for your crankshaft, but tunnel must be honed/bored, and cylinder honing must be done with the studs.

Heads are probably last. Chose your heads ONLY after deciding on maximum RPM and how much money you have. Probably best to spend BIG on the bottom end, enjoy the car, and put the "Gun" heads on later, and just change over your springs. It will be something that you will REALLY look forward too, and free up some money now, to improve the bottom end, and allow for even better heads!!!! Get a decent set of 1.6:1 roller rockers too. More free horsepower... Comp Hi-Tech are good, but probably overkill for a change-gear-at-6000rpm engine.

Performer RPM air-gap (gotta be the RPM airgap) is an awesome manifold, you really can not beat it for a street car.

Depending on cam/head choice, you are most likely going to benefit from inch and seven eights tri-y pipes, extend the secondaries by about 18 inches, to 24 inches, and put the largest dam pipes on it you can, and spend big on high flow/high quality mufflers. This will give you a big mid-range kick, a nice sound, and still great top end!!

Probably top it off with an 850 annular (must be annular) or a 750 standard booster holley, with vac secondaries, and electric choke (you will be really happy with that choice during winter, or pulling out into traffic with a cold engine) a K+N filter with an extreme top, and a K+N stub stack, and maybe a 4 hole 1 inch spacer (dyno will decide).

You won't make 800HP but you WILL want to drive it.

[sexc351]

dude you should checked out pavtek first.they have really cheap bottom ends and engine packages.

[kiwiholdenman]

Any luck with the head numbers dude? Those heads that TRIK has suggested are top value man, so unless you have some good numbers on your heads i would grab em, it really is a case of short term pain, long term gain ! bargain! And yes they will bolt on no probs mate, no mods to your block.

[kiwiholdenman]

They are a top brand mate.

[JetwasH]

personally if i were goin to the trouble of puttin new pistons in, id bore it the next size up not just hone it

Sorry, yes it has been bored also.

[JetwasH]

I am assuming you have a limited budget, and therefore reliability is paramount. (Don't want to have to do it twice, or fix a broken one)

Issue #1- What pistons are you running (cast, Hyper's or forgies)peak RPM
issue #2- What rods / rod bolts do you have?? Peak RPM
Issue #3- What do you want to do with the engine/car combo?

You MUST use file back rings, and set the GAPS CORRECTLY you are simply throwing money over your shoulder with "box" rings. There is 20, almost "FREE" horsepower here.

You MUST - AS A MINUMUM if you are using standard chev gen1 con rods, REPLACE THE ROD BOLTS. this involves re-sizing the rods, usually you are better off to buy a set of eagles or scats. This will help a lot in the event of a missed gear, or a "slippery patch" (officer)

You really want to install THE CORRECT hydraulic roller camshaft. Roller camshafts are more expensive than flat tappet cams, but are substantially better for power, and I believe they are now, excellent for reliability. Cam choice is the most important thing you will do. pistons, rods + bolts, and to some extent, crank and mains, will decide your peak RPM levels. Heads are then purchased/ported to complement the camshaft. Make sure it's correctly "degreed" Comp cams 270HR is a good thing, especially with the 1.6:1 roller rockers, and a good timing chain set.

I personally, would NEVER build an engine without ARP head and main studs. They are pretty cheap, and go a long way to strengthening head gasket seal, and are cheap insurance for your crankshaft, but tunnel must be honed/bored, and cylinder honing must be done with the studs.

Heads are probably last. Chose your heads ONLY after deciding on maximum RPM and how much money you have. Probably best to spend BIG on the bottom end, enjoy the car, and put the "Gun" heads on later, and just change over your springs. It will be something that you will REALLY look forward too, and free up some money now, to improve the bottom end, and allow for even better heads!!!! Get a decent set of 1.6:1 roller rockers too. More free horsepower... Comp Hi-Tech are good, but probably overkill for a change-gear-at-6000rpm engine.

Performer RPM air-gap (gotta be the RPM airgap) is an awesome manifold, you really can not beat it for a street car.

Depending on cam/head choice, you are most likely going to benefit from inch and seven eights tri-y pipes, extend the secondaries by about 18 inches, to 24 inches, and put the largest dam pipes on it you can, and spend big on high flow/high quality mufflers. This will give you a big mid-range kick, a nice sound, and still great top end!!

Probably top it off with an 850 annular (must be annular) or a 750 standard booster holley, with vac secondaries, and electric choke (you will be really happy with that choice during winter, or pulling out into traffic with a cold engine) a K+N filter with an extreme top, and a K+N stub stack, and maybe a 4 hole 1 inch spacer (dyno will decide).

You won't make 800HP but you WILL want to drive it.

Thankyou very much for the advice mate, much appreciated.
I will try to follow it as best i can and update how we get on.
So far i have only spent money on the bottom end and will save for the heads.
It had a weiand street fighter or somethin like that manifold with it so i got it cleaned and reused it, Will it be ok?
I havent brought the holley yet so i will ask for the one you advised.
cheer's man.

[JetwasH]

Any luck with the head numbers dude? Those heads that TRIK has suggested are top value man, so unless you have some good numbers on your heads i would grab em, it really is a case of short term pain, long term gain ! bargain! And yes they will bolt on no probs mate, no mods to your block.

Cheers man, Hopefully he will still have them while i scrounge up $1500 bucks!