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  1. #1
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    Default 304 wont idle help please

    ive been putting a 304efi into my one tonner. its all done but i cant get it to idle, it will for 10-15sec then it starts messing about and dies. the motor has just been freshened up and has a more aggressive cam but not huge, the computer is standard so far i plan on getting it chipped but wanted to sort idle first.

    things ive tried are another idle valve off another running car and made no differnce
    so my thourghts are its got to be timing ive set it at 10deg base.

    after reading the haynes manual it says to do timing i have to earth out the adel plug then just set base timing at 10deg and the computer does the rest

    could some one confirm what why is the correct way to do it thanks

    any other info please ask

    one last question i have is because i have installed a larger cam is this causing my problem?

    here is a link to the cam specs:170-B Camshaft | 304 EFI V8 | HOLDEN | Kelford Camtech

  2. #2
    casual poster bns454's Avatar
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    sounds exactly like youve set your timing without bridging the plug. follow the manual directions and it will be fixed. due to your cam swap u may have to screw in the throttle stop a little aswell i had to on my ute. if its vn wiring the diagnostic plug should be a small white plug(6?pin) near computer if vr/s it will be a long black plug(10?pin)is normaly under gauge cluster above pedals

  3. #3
    Do you ever leave? Brettly-2008's Avatar
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    Default

    yeah, either that or a fuel pressure issue.

  4. #4
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    have checked fuel pressure and is fine. since getting motor goin and putting dizzy back in i have not earthed out plug to set timing so im guessing thats what it is
    next question in the manual it says"earth out adle plug(6pin white) to set timing" the problem is thats all it says. so to do this do i just clip a fly lead from the earth on the adle plug to earth on body to set? or is there more to it?
    thanks for help so far

  5. #5
    casual poster bns454's Avatar
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    ok so long as its a white plug about 6 inchs from computer its vn now if u look at plug with the push clip pointed towards the floor the 2 terminals on the right side(a/b) have to be bridged together with a paperclip or horshue of wire DONT EARTH ANYTHING to the body.
    Last edited by bns454; 21-02-2012 at 10:32 PM.

  6. #6
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    my initial thought was fuel pressure , but now i am going to go with the timing of the cam . just adjust your throttle body so that the butter fly is open a bit,fire that sucker up then check and adjust the timing to suit the cams needs, and also just make sure that its not a vaccuum line of a sensor not connected (seems to happen a fair bit when people get excited)

  7. #7
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    alot of blokes set it from 14-18 degrees .

  8. #8
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    have checked all vac lines and nothing un-accounted for will bridge plug and set timing see if that works, will report back thanks for help people

  9. #9
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    ok so just to check the pins i join together on aldl plug are the earth(black wire) and the diagnostic test terminal(white/black wire) then i set my timing? thanks

  10. #10
    Part of the furniture v8bulldogs's Avatar
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    Yes, they are the wires you want. You see, the ecu doesn't really know how much timing it is giving the engine... all it knows is that it must increase the timing to the numbers set in the 0-100 kpa map in the tune.

    The ecu pressumes that the timing is set at factory specs of around 750rpm and 10 degrees with diagnostic earthed.

    lets say the ecu wants to add 18 degrees to that initial timing for say 4000rpm and 60kpa to suit that load cell... if you originaly set the timing without earthing the connection the ecu will still try to give the extra 18 degrees and you may end up too advanced.
    detonate and kill the motor.

  11. #11
    Part of the furniture v8bulldogs's Avatar
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    Your throttle stop should be set so that the stepper motor is open around 10-20 steps at idle.
    This allows for the stepper to open throttle more when the need arrises to avoid stalling the engine. It also allows for the stepper to increase the idle rpm to whatever the tune calls for. say 750. if you set the idle too low the stepper will open all the way, something like 196 steps and stay there leaving it useless to keep a steady idle with varrying load.

    Your tune may need the desired idle rmp increased from 750 to a higher number.
    I'd say your 0-100 kpa ve table is now also wrong.

  12. #12
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    ok so i tried timing and new idel valve and another ecu(standard) and it still doin the same thing wont idle so im guessing the computer needs to be tuned to suit the motor as this cam must be to far away from the standard one

  13. #13
    casual poster bns454's Avatar
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    might seem silly but are you sure it has a 65mm v8 throttlebody and hasent been swapped to a v6 1? this could mirror your problem

  14. #14
    And Justice For All...... pungent's Avatar
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    Where is your MAP sensor mounted? Is it connected correctly? Some people mount them on the engine when doing conversions but they need to be in a stationary spot on the body other wise engine vibration and movement will throw them out of wack.

    Even with the cam (yours is very small) if everything is connected ok you should be able to still get it to idle it will just either be very rough, high, surgy or all of these together.

    Vacume leaks. Does it rev normal above idle or does it miss or become surgy all the way through the revs.

    Another important thing, have you done the cam run in yet? If not put it in diagnostic mode do the cam run in then worry about getting it to idle etc.
    All I do is put it in neutral and rev like bam bam bam bam bam bam and then select D for maximum respect!!!!

    94 VR Commodore- 9.12 1/8th mile in peices to go faster!!
    03 WR450- 8.47 1/8th mile
    05 R1- 6.57 1/8th mile 10.06@141mph 1/4
    92 VP 5L ute daily..... cam etc etc

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