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#1 (permalink) |
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casual poster
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Well got my licence back last week, and have been driving the ute flat out, but with no heater.
When the car was off the road I hooked the heater back up because it previously didnt have any hoses running to it. I have checked that there are no leaks in the hoses running to the heater, no leaks in the core, (only by taking the fan out an looking in) the fan is working fine, and I even removed the heater tap from the hoses to make sure that wasnt affecting it. And still no heat. Both hoses are getting hot and are full of water.. Its hard to tell but it seems that if i run if for a long time with the heater on it does heat up only slightly, but only a very small difference between the cold air it normally blows. Would i be right in assuming that I need to change the Thermostat? Because the car is always running cold according to the temp gauge. Only ever reachs one bar above cold. Or is there an IN and OUT on the Heater core that the hoses are meant to go in. maybe they are around the wrong way? (its an Air con model heater core) Any help would be appreciated. And what Temp Thermostat should I get for a 308 on straight LPG? 190? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Do you ever leave?
Trade Rating: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Perth
Ride: HZ one tonner Gas only, WB Stato Gas only ,XR650R
Posts: 2,253
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So its the style with a Vacuum switch on the heater hose isnt it .or how is the water turned off and on ?You should be running a 165F/80C thermostat , .The most common problem with this type is the accidentally blocking up of the bypass hole on the thermostat housing, remove both hoses ,and blow back towards the engine and see if if actually gor a circuit. The circuit should be from 1 of the 2 thermostat bypass outlets to the Vac switch , then through the heater and back to the water pump . the other port on the thermostat housing should go to your LPG convertor and then back to the other port on the water pump , two seperate circuits, do not "T-Piece" in the convertor .
When you pull the fan out , that aint the heater core your looking at , in that setup .its the air-con evaporator so you still dont know whether your hoses are actually connected to the core do you.See my Previous thread and you will see what I mean !! Then there are issue of whether you have the 3 Vac diaphragms hooked up correctly. Have fun |
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#3 (permalink) |
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casual poster
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Yes it the style with the Vac switch on the heater hose
I have the system set up exacly how you say, with no T piecing. I will pull both the hoses off tonight and check whether one of the holes is blocked or not. Hehehe. And yes I did read your other thread about the heater core setup. lol.. I may just be lucky enough to have one of those fancy set-ups as well!! hehe. the 3 Vac diahpraghms? I think that all the vac diagpragms are set-up correctly, because i can hear it all changing when I move the heater switch's inside the cabin, from feet, to demist, to heat and cold etc etc.. But should this affect anything if I am not running a heater tap at the moment? And don't have Air Con connected? Thanks |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Do you ever leave?
Trade Rating: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Perth
Ride: HZ one tonner Gas only, WB Stato Gas only ,XR650R
Posts: 2,253
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While you got it disconnected test that Vacuum switch , although they usually fail in the open position , which stuffs up your air-con.Remember the Demister system is designed to work using the air-con. air-conditioning is just another word for Air-drying or removing moisture from the air , so demisting is 10 times more efficient using the air-con than trying to heat up glass.
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