wabbit

righto, all the testing is out of the way and we're good to go.

i started with a normal old, run of the mill 4160 style 3310 750 vacuum secondary holley.

and here's a picture of a 600. i forgot to take a shot of the 750




and some bowls i bought off Ebay (thanks Clevo)





first up, the carby was stripped to it's undies and everything soaked to clean 30 years of gunk off it.

i usually use koala brand degreaser from supercheap for this, but they seem to have changed the recipe and added some detergent that doesn't go well with the aluminium.

like this




so, second time around, i used some liquid carby cleaner. soak the bits in that for 24 hours, followed by petrol for 24 hours.

wash them out in hot water. as hot as you can stand. next time i'll try the dishwasher
then blow dry with a compressor. make sure to blow all the ports out.

then we're ready for paint

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wabbit

WRONG

all the mating surfaces need to be machined.
that's the metering block mounting surfaces, carby base, baseplate top and bottom, vacuum secondary actuator port and mounting area, accelerator pumps and the part on the bowl where they screw onto.

do NOT work on the metering blocks. the ridge around the edge of them is there for sealing of the gaskets. one of my metering blocks was slightly warped, so i had to change it.

i also converted the 4160 to a 4150 style carby by replacing the metering plate with a metering block incorporating 4 corner idle. i haven't done the rest of the mods for the 4 corner idle, so that will come later

machining the parts yourself is not a problem. all you need is a sheet of thick glass and some wet and dry sandpaper. and some time.....lots and lots of time. mine took about 30 hours, all up

here's the body after the machining



i started with 180 git and worked down to 400 grit to finish off.
just put the sandpaper on the glass, at the edge and hang the top of the carb over the edge of the glass. don't wrap the paper around the edge of the glass or you will machine a groove into the air cleaner mounting flange.

then, keeping even pressure and with some lube (i use degreaser) drag the body along the edge of the glass towards you. i use 10 towards me and then go to the other side and do 10 that way.

this method is a lot slower than using a file, but leaves less room for error.

just keep going until there's less than 0.005 clearance under a straight edge.
all the sealing edges and ports need to be as flat as possible. the accelerator pump port especially needs to be sealed from the power valve vacuum chamber.

for the base of the carby, i had to cut a piece of glass and some paper to fit between the metering block mounting flanges. from memory i think it was 140mm.

same story with the other bits. all must be flat to seal properly.
if you just replace gaskets and don't ensure the mating surfaces are level, the carby WILL leak either fuel or air. both are bad

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wabbit

now we can start the fun part

clean everything. prepsol, thinners, metho. i don't care what you use. if you need to paint it or touch it, clean it. A LOT

then mask the bits you don't want painted and clean everything again




here's what we're using today.
we'll start with the VHT caliper paint in cast aluminium colour.
use VHT. do not use el cheapo brands.
there would be other brands that will work, but VHT is the only one i've found so far in an aerosol
since i started this job, i've bought an airbrush, so i'll try something else next time




starting with the silver paint, half a dozen light coats

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mark

thanks wabbit, all i need now is a carby

wabbit

i wasn't happy with the casting finish of the bowls, so i deburred them and slapped a bit of duco on them too


allow the bits to dry for a minimum of a day then it's all into the oven.
i've refined the baking method since last time.
it's just 10 minutes in the oven at the lowest possible temperature,
then turn the oven off and let the bits cool overnight (preferably in the oven if you're not married).
if it's a hot day, you could just leave them out in the sun for the day

then next day is 15 mins on/ 15 mins off for 3 or 4 cycles at 50-70 degrees C.
leave the bits in the oven for the cool down cycles.

cool the bits completely, then back in the oven and gradually increase the temp until you get a slight burning smell, then back off a bit.
the paint's resistance to heat will increase with each cycle.
keep increasing until you get it stable at 100 degrees C.

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wabbit

and now it's time for the clear.

i'm using 'glisten PC' by POR15 inc.
it's designed for use over polished alloy wheels, but it does the job for what i'm chasing.

forget the instructions again.
actually, not all of them. just the bit that says you can brush it on.
that would work for large, flat areas. not for fiddly crap.

no pictures yet.
the instructions say to air dry for 4 days. that part's spot on. believe it

first up, CLEAN.
second. clean again.

i used 4 light coats on all the bits using the airbrush and it looks great. really brings the shine out.

then air dry for 4 days. preferably a week.
it's very important to have some sort of enclosure to keep dust and stuff off the bits until the 4 days are up. i used a big tupperware container upside down.
i painted the bits on the lid and slipped the bottom bit over it.
(my wife found out. not happy,especially after the oven incident)


the next part is liable to be edited, as i've only done this on the test piece.

after the week is up, bake the bits again.

same procedure as last time with the baking.
i had the test piece immersed in petrol for 4 days with only slight bubbling of the silver paint under the clear.

here's a shot of the test piece before the clear went on.
this really is a crap shot. it looks much better than this and the clear makes it look even better

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wabbit

here's a shot of my test piece that i attacked to check how well this stuff works



on the right, you can see where i dragged a wire brush across it 20 times as hard as i could. the coatings did come off in places, but i expected it to.

on the left, i hit the bowl with a ball pein hammer 3 times.
the coatings stayed intact, even though the bowl dented.

i also tried to scratch it with a screwdriver and it took a lot of effort to even mark it.


the discolouring on the right is partly due to poor preparation and partly due to petrol staining.
that's the part i had soaking for 4 days in petrol and it only stained the silver before i put the clear over it








To be Continued....................

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azzahstylez

Your like target with their tests on clothes!!!

excellant work

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SS Hatchback

Hey wabbs , will you be modifying the carby body at all?

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wabbit

yes. i've got some holes to drill in the body and rear metering plate for the 4 corner idle.
also some cleaning of the casting in the venturi area, improvement of the secondary boosters and annular boosters in the primarys

i was thinking of cutting the choke horn off and flowing the top similar to the Demon, Holley pro series and Proform bodies, but i've decided to keep the choke and use a sub stack for now

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davidburns

Them fuel bowls look hot, were do u get them, and do they just bolt on as a replacment for the holley fuel bowls.

wabbit

i'm not sure where you'd get them from.

i got mine off Clevo. he bought replacements for his, so he'd know.


they bolt directly onto the holleys as long as you have the 4150 series with front and rear metering blocks. the primary bowl also has to be modified to clear the vacuum advance thingy

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1BADSS

I bought King Demon Bowls to replace the Speed Demon ones that Wabbet have, I bought them from VPW but you would be able to buy them from any speed shop that sell BG Demon carbies.

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SS Hatchback

Hey Clevo how much were they to buy from vpw?

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folden@308

i will keep watching this space

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