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Old 15-09-2005, 12:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default deburring your block

just looking at what needs to be done to my block, so i thought i'd post some shots.

these before and after pics are of three different blocks when i was deburring the oil galleries.




oil galleries before




a die grinder from supercheap and some burrs and stones from bunnings. about $55 all up and you're away. also good for port matching.



these have done 3 blocks so far, with a lot of life left in them.
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Old 15-09-2005, 12:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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and here's the finished product. these are 308 blocks, but it's the same principal with any motor. the oil pump can't pump oil if it's sitting in pockets throughout the block where it does no good.





also, the dags and crap cause stress in the block. so removing it all is a win/win situation.
i might even deburr the outside of the block and heads.
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Old 15-09-2005, 01:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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can i ask a question which i think most people might want to know..

the shavings that fall into the block, could this do damage, like get stuck in the oil pickup, ect.ect.???
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Old 15-09-2005, 01:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yes.
the motor has to be disassembled before any work is done and THOROUGHLY washed afterwards.

all machining work should be done prior to hot tanking

the pic with the cam installed is just to show the dags. this is my current motor and the dags are actually pretty good anyway, but it can be improved.

high volume oil pump, high volume sump and deburred block. oil is your friend
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Old 16-09-2005, 02:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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a flapper wheel is also a handy accessory for a die grinder and some metal dies might be worthwhile aswell.
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Old 16-09-2005, 05:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i so wish i had of done this before i put my block in to get assembled but as they say ya live and learn.

Good guide though mate it is a pretty good thing to do if your building a motor.
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Old 19-09-2005, 10:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Good stuff !! not sure about the high volume oil pump though, They reckon a semi high volume is ideal for the 308 as a high volume at high revs tends to fill the rocker covers with to much oil !
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Old 20-09-2005, 01:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i've heard that before.

in my opinion, the rocker covers only fill with oil because the path back to the sump isn't free flowing enough.

it's an each way bet, whichever you choose
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Old 21-09-2005, 10:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
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fair call
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Old 09-10-2005, 02:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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good to see others taking pride in there investment, My 350 block, rods,
pistons, crank etc etc copped the same treatment in total I spend about 80 to 100
hours on my engine in getting rid of sharp edges and factory castings and
opening up oil path ways..

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Old 11-10-2005, 05:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The first time around i did the work myself and nearly stuffed my motor, but the second time i got it right, good diagrams good advise for others i give you credit!!
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Old 19-10-2005, 05:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hi peeps

well Ive just pulled my manifold off as Im going to aluminium heads and thought
I would put some pics of the grinding and opening of my oil galaries up
for you all to have a look so it gives you DIY guys an idea of what you should be
doing your engines prior to getting machined...





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Old 03-01-2006, 09:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
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So in the valley we want to remove and smooth and dags and casting routhness and polish it to a as smooth finish as posible?
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Old 03-01-2006, 08:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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that's the story.

BTR's block looks beautiful.
you don't want the oil hanging up on the rough bits of the block. it does no good at all there.
the whole idea is to get your oil back into the sump so it can be recirculated
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Old 22-03-2006, 06:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I will be starting this work tomorrow, will post pic's.
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