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06-02-2012, 07:05 PM #46M&P Association
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The pump might be having dramas pushing the weight of the fuel through the 1/2 inch delivery line but also the 1/2 inch line will supply a greater volume of fuel at a lower psi , I havnt done the math on the extra area of a 1/2 vs 3/8 line over the distance from pump to reg to work out the volume increase ,but there is a increase and a psi drop.
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06-02-2012, 10:26 PM #47casual poster
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holley blue pump and the reg you have with 1/2" fuel line should work fine. has done b4 on heaps of other cars and thats all i ran on 383 chev running 11.4s for years with no problems. gota be something simple!
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06-02-2012, 10:54 PM #48
Thanks guys, all good stuff to think about. I have ordered the 1/2" solid pipe and it should be here tomorrow. The wiring has been tidied up and moved to the other side of the driveshaft and I'm just making up a bracket, a mirror of the other side. It will need a heat shield on the exhaust side but will all fit in there ok.
I stripped the pump and cleaned a bit of fluff out of the internal filter, no other filter at this stage. Pump has only done about 1000k and was as new.
The fuel line from the tank will still need to go up and over the diff but will be about 200mm shorter. I may even be able to make this out of hard fuel line depending on its bendability. This should reduce any flow resistance in the rubber. I will also go through everything and disassemble, test and reassemble as I go. There are no pressure leaks but I will have a good look at the vacuum side even though it's all new.
Another reason I like the Holley is that the pump end is at the bottom and the motor at the top. So much easier to get the pump below the tank.
I will rubber mount the pump this time to try and keep the noise down, could hardly hear the Carter on its rubber mounts.
I have some heat shielding but to be honest everything has been routed well away from the exhaust anyway.
If all goes well it should be running tomorrow without the hard line and with the hard line in the weekend.
Does anyone else run a full length rubber 1/2" hose?The Monaro Club of Victoria http://www.monaroclubvic.asn.au/
McClewan Technology http://www.mcclewan.com.au/
The 308 Shop - Mike - Site coming soon!
FabRAIcations - Rob http://www.rollcages.com.au/index.php
RaceBrakes - Howard http://www.racebrakes.com.au/index.html
Pedders Frankston - Simon http://www.pedders.com.au/
Tyrepower Frankston - Chris http://www.tyrepower.com.au/
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07-02-2012, 07:46 AM #49
Yep! from tank to regulator. And then 2 x 3/8 to carb.
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07-02-2012, 09:58 AM #50
My original intention was to run hard line from the tank to the bay, but it was a bugger to bend up and I could not easily get past the cross members under the car; so now I have braided/rubber from tank to bay and return (runs in the frame c channel) - I have not experiened any issue with this.
Last edited by Bill355; 07-02-2012 at 10:08 AM.
Some days you are the dog . . . some days, you are the tree.
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07-02-2012, 10:50 AM #51M&P Association
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If all fails u could change the spring in the blue pump to up the pressure , not sure if someone has already mentioned that , anyway
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07-02-2012, 10:56 AM #52
Thanks EH179, that's exactly what I have with a small variation. One side of the regulator has the gauge and the other has a 3/8 outlet then a T to each bowl.
Hi Bill, I don't know how successful fitting the hard line will be but I should be able to reduce the rubber line by 1.5 - 2M.
Thanks ffsuc, I did think of running two pumps in parallel but increasing the pressure may work. Are springs or adjustments available and is there any down side?
My wife had a good suggestion ... she said that it sounds like the 'system' is not working and it was a combination of the components that introduces a problem even though each of the components test ok.
I'm kind of working on that theory as a 'B' option, if I keep changing things sooner or later it will work.Last edited by PeterD; 07-02-2012 at 10:59 AM.
The Monaro Club of Victoria http://www.monaroclubvic.asn.au/
McClewan Technology http://www.mcclewan.com.au/
The 308 Shop - Mike - Site coming soon!
FabRAIcations - Rob http://www.rollcages.com.au/index.php
RaceBrakes - Howard http://www.racebrakes.com.au/index.html
Pedders Frankston - Simon http://www.pedders.com.au/
Tyrepower Frankston - Chris http://www.tyrepower.com.au/
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07-02-2012, 11:10 AM #53M&P Association
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Ozrace may have the spring , its been a while for me and blues , my old setup had each side of the reg feeding a bowl and the gauge inline on the rear bowl feed line , there might be a prob expecting 1 side of the reg to feed 2 bowls
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07-02-2012, 01:04 PM #54Part of the furniture
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i would also check the breather the tank has been out and it could have a wasps nest built in eather end or be blocked with debris as with hq's they are vented around the wheel or diff or the hose could be kinked when you refitted the tank but that can be easily tested by taking the cap off and it will gulp air in after a hard run
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07-02-2012, 03:48 PM #55
ffsuc, may look at switching that around, ez to do.
hq2door, the tank has two breathers (I had Borwn Davis fit a second one) and both are clear.
I have just picked up the 1/2" hard line from GMP and it looks good. Can be bent at quite a tight radius so I will be able to run it over the diff on the vacuum side if I have enough left over. Comes in a 3m length.The Monaro Club of Victoria http://www.monaroclubvic.asn.au/
McClewan Technology http://www.mcclewan.com.au/
The 308 Shop - Mike - Site coming soon!
FabRAIcations - Rob http://www.rollcages.com.au/index.php
RaceBrakes - Howard http://www.racebrakes.com.au/index.html
Pedders Frankston - Simon http://www.pedders.com.au/
Tyrepower Frankston - Chris http://www.tyrepower.com.au/
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08-02-2012, 01:45 PM #56
Fuel Delivery Test 1
So everything is in now bar the hard line. In summary:
• Holley Blue has replaced the Carter Black
• The pump now runs on a relay directly from the battery
• Tank has two breathers both working
• Tank has ˝” pickup
• Line from tank to pump is new ˝” rubber line with SpeedFlow fitting on tank and brass on pump
• On the pressure side there is a brass fitting in the pump, to a ˝” rubber fuel line to the Holley regulator
• The regulator has the gauge on one side and a 3/8” fitting on the other splitting into two 3/8” lines one for each bowl
• The pump has now been relocated to the RH side of the diff and all lines are well away from the exhaust
• The wiring has been replaced an now only services the one pump
• The tank to pump line has been shortened about 200mm
• The pump to regulator line has been shortened about 400mm and a Speedflow joiner removed
• Only using the internal Holley Blue filter atm
So what did we find when we tested it?
Firstly the Holley started with a roar and self-primed in a few seconds. Pressure at the gauge was 9 ˝ lbs, a huge improvement on the Carter. I adjusted it back to 7 1/2lbs and checked the float levels and backed off the idle. Everything was looking good so time for a road test …
The car ran well with no overheating due to lean condition and power was GREAT! So headed back to the garage to check the pressure. Lifted the bonnet to find it had dropped to 5 ˝ lbs!!! Why Why Why???
I adjusted the regulator back to just over 7 lbs (couldn’t do this with the Carter) and locked it off at that. This will mean that it will have about 9 lbs on cold start up, not the end of the world but still frustrating. I remember back now that the car has always had a tendency to fowl plugs on cold start up and on two occasions I have had to replace plugs due to this problem. My guess is that the pressure has been set at 7 ˝ lbs at operating temperature and has always been 9 – 10 lbs on cold start up causing the difficult starts.
I checked all of the components and nothing was hot.
Next is of course the hard line pump to Reg to reduce the resistance of the rubber. I could change the brass fittings on the pump to Speedflow? Then there is the idea of reducing the internal bypass of the Holley with adjustment or a heavier spring. Or I could go to a Holley Black and a return line. Or just plumb a return line and some sort of Reg with the blue. Or get a regulator that actually regulates to a pre-determined pressure as opposed to the Holley reg that seems to be just a pressure reducer.The Monaro Club of Victoria http://www.monaroclubvic.asn.au/
McClewan Technology http://www.mcclewan.com.au/
The 308 Shop - Mike - Site coming soon!
FabRAIcations - Rob http://www.rollcages.com.au/index.php
RaceBrakes - Howard http://www.racebrakes.com.au/index.html
Pedders Frankston - Simon http://www.pedders.com.au/
Tyrepower Frankston - Chris http://www.tyrepower.com.au/
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08-02-2012, 01:53 PM #57Part of the furniture
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the thing with rubber lines is you can never tell if the internal line is in good nick or not a defect in the internal line could be reducing flow and making the pump work harder
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08-02-2012, 01:58 PM #58
Agreed and I hope that is the case with the pressure line. That means it will be fixed when I fit the hard line.
The Monaro Club of Victoria http://www.monaroclubvic.asn.au/
McClewan Technology http://www.mcclewan.com.au/
The 308 Shop - Mike - Site coming soon!
FabRAIcations - Rob http://www.rollcages.com.au/index.php
RaceBrakes - Howard http://www.racebrakes.com.au/index.html
Pedders Frankston - Simon http://www.pedders.com.au/
Tyrepower Frankston - Chris http://www.tyrepower.com.au/
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08-02-2012, 06:29 PM #59Part of the furniture
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well i hope so because the excuse bin is getting empty
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08-02-2012, 06:52 PM #60
So, I'm reading it as still not running a return line to the tank? The main benefit of running a return-style system is that you can let the pump run flat-out, and when the motor doesn't need the higher rate of fuel delivery and pressure builds, it can bypass some back to the tank. You just set the pressure on the reg, and as long as the pump can provide enough pressure and flow the reg does all the work of keeping the pressure even, even as engine requirements fluctuate. It also means the pump isn't loading up on itself (almost like hydraulic lock otherwise), and you don't have to worry about aerated fuel in the line from the pump cavitating when it does load up on itself... I had roughly the same problem you describe with my HZ when it was running a dead-head arrangement - changed to regulated return, no more problems... Just my 2c anyway.
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