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Thread: Grovers HT....

  1. #136
    No stroker for this joker Grover's Avatar
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    Nah its pretty good where it is, pipe size, umm without going out to the shed to measure up (its 40 metres away, and I'm feeling a tad lazy) its street sign size, around 60 odd mm from memory......when I was in Canberra last year I really wanted to steal the "Monaro Street" sign that I came across, maybe you should go grab the whole lot .....

  2. #137
    Professional Idiot low350's Avatar
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    Haha I have a few "street sign" size pieces of pipe laying around!
    PROJECT: Monaro - Game far from over!
    http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...-far-over.html

  3. #138
    No stroker for this joker Grover's Avatar
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    I had a funny feeling.........

  4. #139
    Senior Member shane308's Avatar
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    ...sshh...dont tell no one !

  5. #140
    No stroker for this joker Grover's Avatar
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    Update.....been slowly pottering about doing bits and pieces. Doglegs, finishing off little jobs here and there. I noticed that my beaver panel had a bit of bog on the corners where it joined to the rear 1/4's. A bit of digging revealed a Chip Foose load of "bondo" covering rusty shit and nasty previous repairs by some dodgy prick who didn't own a MIG and liked a bit of bronzing. So I decided to replace the whole rear panel, and picked up a repro panel for a good price. So, I had to make up a stand to put under the arse end so I could take the rotisserie off as it bolted up to the bumper bar mounting points. Started to take the rear panel off, some was still spot welded, some brazed on, some stuck on with metal bird shit. Bit of cancer underneath, but will sort that out as well.








  6. #141
    Professional Idiot low350's Avatar
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    I was only just thinking today about asking if you had had a crack at the new panel yet! With it so chilly lately it's a good excuse to keep warm by the welder!! Haha
    PROJECT: Monaro - Game far from over!
    http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...-far-over.html

  7. #142
    Senior Member RSA350's Avatar
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    Keep it up fellas, threads like these are going to be a massive source of reference for me me when I tackle the body work on my Monaro (wont happen for a while tho - currently carrying out operation 'get it going and drive the shit outta this thing' lol).

    Is that replacement a chopped HK one? Have seen them on the net but none for HT tail lights... Looks like the beaver panel you cut out had about a million times less rust than the bog/fibreglass creation currently residing on my HT.

  8. #143
    No stroker for this joker Grover's Avatar
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    Yeah Ads its to suit a HK, just have to trim the tail light section off. The pics dont do that beaver justice, bog was about 6mm thick in places, half had been replaced, what hadn't been replaced had a bit welded on top of the original bit. What a fkn mess, looked great witrh paint on it lol

  9. #144
    casual poster Bitchfish's Avatar
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    Looking good Grover. Added to my inspiration and info file.

  10. #145
    casual poster patto_52's Avatar
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    Hey Grover (and others),

    First off - sweet thread Grover. Have checked it out quite a few times for inspiration!

    I've had a look at the Racemods page that you talked about, and it says you base all the measurements on a tube that you have in place to 'simulate' the diff, but up against the chassis. I can see how you could tell how wide (from front to back) the tub needs to be because you know where the diff will be so you can tell the centrepoint.

    Did you calculate how "high" the tubs needed to be once the diff, wheels, leafsprings are in place? I don't have a diff yet so I have no idea how low the diff will sit and therefore how high the top of the wheels would be in relation to say the chassis.

    If you make the centrepoint of the tubs where the diff would sit if it was hard up against the chassis (which is higher than it would sit) then the centrepoint of the tubs will be higher than the centrepoint of the wheels and so theoretically you should have sufficient "verticle" clearance.

    Where to position the tubs in terms of how far towards the front/rear of the car is easy enough, because I can use the banjo I have, but I'm still not sure on the "vertical" positioning so curious as to how you made sure it would all fit?

    Am I on the right track?

    Cheers,
    Patto

  11. #146
    No stroker for this joker Grover's Avatar
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    Basically, once you decide what size tubs you want, and make them/have them made, then you make up the template the same as the side of the tub. Bottom of the template sits on the bar you have in place, the top of the template is your height. I put my bar tubes about 2 inches down from chassis rail if that makes sense, and made my tubs about 33 inch dia.

  12. #147
    casual poster patto_52's Avatar
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    Sweet that's how I thought. Cheers man. If mine comes out looking half as sweet as yours I'll be stoked.

  13. #148
    No stroker for this joker Grover's Avatar
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    Ok....update time, still toiling away on the arse end, a bit here and there when I get time. Totally removed the old rear panel, cut the bottoms off the rear 1/4's and cut'n'shut and modded the hopeless rare spares replacement panel for the drivers side, including removing the spare wheel hump/arch. Filled in the fuel filler hole, cut out the inner beaver panel rusty corners, and fabbed up a couple of new ones today. Tacked in the drivers side, the passenger side wont go in till I replace all the other dodgy stuff behind it. One day I'll start putting the whole rear end jigsaw back together, its getting closer lol.








  14. #149
    No stroker for this joker Grover's Avatar
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    More......its all fairly mundane to look at, and when its done, no one will know or care about all the frigging about, but I'll be happy that the nasty stuff is gone.









    Last edited by Grover; 17-07-2012 at 09:21 PM.

  15. #150
    No stroker for this joker Grover's Avatar
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    You make me feel slack.....
    Be nice if I had a small folder, would hurry these things along a bit, doing it by hand sucks arse....

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