Thread: Power steering box rebuild

Hi all.

Does anyone have any experience in the rebuilding/resealing of power steering units, ie costs, materials or take it to someone else. I have priced seal kits at between $30-$149.00. Would love to know if anyone has completed a rebuild and/or any tricks/tips?

The reason I ask is I have a little leak from the bottom of the sector shaft and would like to know is there is any easy or hard way!

Many thanks

David

Assuming a Ford or Holden type box? A rebuild is not a D.I.Y there are special tools required . If it is just the bottom seal it can be replaced by just removing the pitman arm.

Aside from actually removing the pitman arm (for which you need a decent puller) and removing the round end cap (make a tool with a couple of teeth) its not that hard. The problem is though, quite often this leak is caused by a worn shaft rather than the seal so replacing the seal won't fix it. If the unit seems to be in otherwise good condition, try the bottom seal first and see how it goes.

Originally Posted by Gregaust

Assuming a Ford or Holden type box? A rebuild is not a D.I.Y there are special tools required . If it is just the bottom seal it can be replaced by just removing the pitman arm.

It is a Holden box. I hear what you are saying and thanks for the info.

David

Originally Posted by 76lxhatch

Aside from actually removing the pitman arm (for which you need a decent puller) and removing the round end cap (make a tool with a couple of teeth) its not that hard. The problem is though, quite often this leak is caused by a worn shaft rather than the seal so replacing the seal won't fix it. If the unit seems to be in otherwise good condition, try the bottom seal first and see how it goes.

It actually looks as though the box has been redone at some point. The top cap is very new and it would appear ok. The steering is a little loose, when I took it for a roadworthy it was mentioned that the rack needed adjustment, perhaps better to just get the whole unit reco'ed do you think?

Thanks for the input, it is appreciated.

David

Originally Posted by davidgl

It actually looks as though the box has been redone at some point. The top cap is very new and it would appear ok. The steering is a little loose, when I took it for a roadworthy it was mentioned that the rack needed adjustment, perhaps better to just get the whole unit reco'ed do you think?

We are talking about your HZ? The factory steering in these is box and drag link, no rack.

If the steering is actually loose then its not OK, but it sounds like you (or someone you trust) needs to actually get under there and see which part is loose as this may not even relate to the steering box. The same applies for the leak - wipe the whole box clean and see if you can spot where its coming from and how bad it is. It could well still be as simple as mentioned above, just a new seal.

There is an adjustment on the box, but once they are worn out this will no longer take up the slop. It is hidden under the allen keyed grub screw on the top/end, and is adjusted inside here using an allen key also - make sure that it doesn't bind in any part of the steering travel.

If the box itself is loose and cannot be adjusted any tighter then it needs to be dismantled to assess the damage, one or more parts usually requires replacing at this point. This is where it gets difficult because you are looking for second hand parts - if you have a worn out steering box and get a chance to buy a known good box at a reasonable price then by all means grab it.

Originally Posted by 76lxhatch

We are talking about your HZ? The factory steering in these is box and drag link, no rack.

If the steering is actually loose then its not OK, but it sounds like you (or someone you trust) needs to actually get under there and see which part is loose as this may not even relate to the steering box. The same applies for the leak - wipe the whole box clean and see if you can spot where its coming from and how bad it is. It could well still be as simple as mentioned above, just a new seal.

There is an adjustment on the box, but once they are worn out this will no longer take up the slop. It is hidden under the allen keyed grub screw on the top/end, and is adjusted inside here using an allen key also - make sure that it doesn't bind in any part of the steering travel.

If the box itself is loose and cannot be adjusted any tighter then it needs to be dismantled to assess the damage, one or more parts usually requires replacing at this point. This is where it gets difficult because you are looking for second hand parts - if you have a worn out steering box and get a chance to buy a known good box at a reasonable price then by all means grab it.

Point taken. The whole front steering assembly was replaced just before I purchased it. New ball joints, both upper and lower, idler arm, drag link, tie rods and ends. Everything is correctly tightened as I was there when it was put in. Provided my own torque wrench just to make sure. The tight plus one flat routine doesn't quite install confidence I'm afraid.

I have done as you suggested and it is just weeping out from the pitman arm area. The rest is dry! I think I will either get another box and get this one reco'ed or replace the seal and see how it goes.

Thanks again! Much appreciated.

David

Originally Posted by davidgl

I think I will either get another box and get this one reco'ed or replace the seal and see how it goes.

Fingers crossed its just the seal, that would be a lot cheaper and worth starting with that

Originally Posted by PeterD

I know nothing about these guys but may be worth a call:

Holden HQ / HJ / HX / HZ / WB Power Steer Box SERVICING - eBay Steering Racks, Gear Boxes, Suspension, Steering, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 04-May-10 21:27:08 AEST)

Thanks for the link. Might just give them a buzz and asee what the go is. Is way less than I thought it would be. Thanks for that!

Kind regards

David

Originally Posted by hz_350

have you tried a bottle of the castrol power steering stop leak it sealed mine up

, if u have play it could also be you steering coupling the part connecting the steering shaft to the box

also my steering guy told me that in the knuckle that joins the column to the shaft there is 2 little squares of steel that slide up and down u can take them out and turn them over so you replace the worn sides with fresh sides abit like swapping brushes on a drill im yet to do it as i cant be stuffed takin the shaft off again most of my play was from the completely stuffed coupling

Worth a shot, but I guess I am a little concerned about the play and as I really don't want to do it all over again, it might just be better to do the reco deal.

I will check out the shfat tomorrow and have a look.

Thanks!!!!

David

Originally Posted by hz_350

well if u open the bonnet and look at the coupling whilst moving the steering wheel through the "play" you will be able to see if your steering shaft is moving and not the shaft that goes into the box if that makes sense if u watch carfully you will see what is moving and what is not do it with the wheels on the ground

Sorry for the delay. I had a good look today and when back over everything and did the steering wheel movement deal. When the steering wheel moves it is translated all the way to the box.

Interesting thing is when I looked at the manual (God help me).

Steering gear "on centre" alignment it says that when the intermediate shaft coupling is fitted to the steering box, there is a mark on the box housing that should match up with a mark on the steering intermediate coupling, as in a gauge line.

Not sure if that is the case. Hmmmm ..... maybe I should scan the pages and post them for opinions.

Would this be of any use to anyone?

David